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41
Here is what is in the US owners manual
42
Thank you, I did not mean "hidden", just thought part of it was cut perhaps while scanning. As it is about Central Europe, seemed important. Anyway it applies to W parameter, which is less relevant as our cars are driven in temperatures in the range of 20-35 degC. I have 280SL, driving summer, so sticking to 50. I use 10W30 for 190SL as this is what the manual is saying there.

I also believe, although, again, I am not an expert, that none of the recently shown examples of destroyed rockers, camshafts or crankshaft journals or bearings is the result of using oil grade of 30 instead of 50 or vice-versa.

I also read enough here and elsewhere to seek for the oil containing certain amount of ZDDP. I also believe that camshaft run-in procedure makes sense and I applied it successfully.
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This is the complete cut from the owners manual. No hidden information. That's what I say. SAE30, if you fear lubrication loss, you can swap to 40 (as me with 0W-40, but it's close to a 30). But 50 is imho absolutely not necessary. The preferred metric lubricant is synthetic and a 5W, what is much better than 20W because a too high grade stresses the oil pump gears and the bearings. If you read the cut of the owners manual you can see that 5W ist already OK. In most cases I have problems to get the oil temp above 80 deg. C. When driving on highway with constant 4000 and above up to 5000 it rises to 90 or 95 (with the optional oil water heat exchanger which was standard at the 250SL). You can do with your car whatever you want but I think it is important to separate myths from facts.
44
The cut is from the owners manual 230SL, 250SL. The late 280SL have a different manual, where 20W-50 is mentioned as an option but only for summer use in warm countries.

As Martin states, the screen shot is from the owners manual, my 230Sl makes no mention of 20W-50 at all

The service manual in our technical manual quotes 20W-50, so i'm not sure where that information come from?
45
Well, in your cut out 10W30 is mentioned for hot zones. Would be good to see the full description of the asterix there... it starts saying 10W as of October.
46
The cut is from the owners manual 230SL, 250SL. The late 280SL have a different manual, where 20W-50 is mentioned as an option but only for summer use in warm countries.
47
Is Castrol Edge a synthetic? Since my engine has been using conventional for 20,000 miles, not wanting to switch. I was told to use Castrol GTX "Classic" in that case. I think Metric also recommends that as well.

Yes Wallace the FIRST oil recommendation by Metric is full synthetic. They also have secondary recommendations that are not. Dirk Balter posted the PDF of their statement on the subject.

A bit off topic here, but on a modern Mercedes, at least for a while and maybe some time ago, if you opened the hood (bonnet) there was a sticker/label suggesting a Mobil 1 oil. I queried my clients at German oil company Liqui Moly why there’s no such sticker for them. “We cannot afford to pay their fee!” Was the reply!
48
I just completed a full rebuild of my braking system. ALL ATE PARTS where applicable:

Pads
Fluid
Master cylinder
Coated rotors

Calipers rebuilt including factory plating (cadmium not zinc) by Caliper HQ.

New bearings in front
New flex hoses all around
New reproduction fluid reservoir

Everything is easy to find.

ATE logo is embossed on caliper casting.

49
MartinK, could you point where in the Technical Manual we can find 10W30 recommended? All I see is 20W50, I am missing something apparently. I am not sure where the cut out you are showing comes from.
50
Way Off Topic / Re: Door latch step
« Last post by Pawel66 on October 16, 2025, 10:49:17 »
Sincere congratulations to your Dad!
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