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41
The factory had a special tool. I found a hole saw just the right diameter then ground the teeth off and used it to drive in the new seal.

I made one on a lathe knowing I would use it many times. It was a good decision.

I use a bit of sealer on the metal portion of the seal during installation.
42
Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Input Shaft Seal - manual trans
« Last post by ja17 on September 02, 2025, 04:27:35 »
The factory had a special tool. I found a hole saw just the right diameter then ground the teeth off and used it to drive in the new seal.
43
They return back down from a spring below.
44
Electrical and Instruments / Re: Wiper motor
« Last post by ronwall83 on September 02, 2025, 00:44:25 »
Thank you.  I can run the wipers by hand under the dash with no problem. I don't have power on the wiring harness, so there is an issue up the line somewhere.  I'll check #2 fuse & clean up relay contacts.

Thank you for the link. I was on this page on the tech manual and read right past the "testing" link.
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Wiper motor
« Last post by Leester on September 02, 2025, 00:38:50 »
What you want to hope for is that the windshield wiper transmission is not seized after sitting for so long. But to answer your specific question the tech manual provides useful and responsive information:  https://www.sl113.org/wiki/ChassisBody/Wipers.

A while back I sent my multi-function switch to Sead (search on this board) for repairs and it now works perfectly.
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Electrical and Instruments / Wiper motor
« Last post by ronwall83 on September 01, 2025, 23:46:43 »
'67 230sl. Multi function switch is  broken, the "cap" is broken off with the spring underneath to control the wipers.

I'm trying to figure out if my wiper motor even works?  Is it possible to hot wire it direct to the battery just to test it?  If so, which of the 4 terminals on the motor itself would I alligator clip to just to test it?

This car sat for 30 years.  I finally have it running & driving, but the wipers remain non functioning. Not a huge deal, just annoys me more than anything.  Any help is appreciated!
47
General Discussion / Re: Mild steel vs stainless steel exhaust system
« Last post by mBdrvr on September 01, 2025, 22:35:34 »
My 280 SL now has a stainless exhaust system that is too loud for my liking. I had Borla in New Jersey put a resonator on that help a bit but I'm still not happy with the sound. The stainless system I have replaced the bodged together system that came with the car. I still have the old exhaust. That has an Eberspacher 113-490-00-22/25 muffler in good shape. Are these known to be quieter? If I swapped mufflers would that make a difference?
Thanks,
Paul
48
The pistons get stuck in the up position and then do not pump fuel and cause the rack to stick also. Use penetrant and a blunt soft metal or hardwood drift to knock the pistons downward. Turn the engine and repeat until the pistons return down on their own.
How do these pistons normally return down?  Spring?  Vacuum below?  Fuel pressure above?
49
Electrical and Instruments / Re: Clock repair alternative to replacing solder fuse
« Last post by GM on September 01, 2025, 20:48:47 »
JedinDetroit - email sent

BTW, it looks like Charles (clunker) is hoping to add it to the Tech Manual
50
Items for Sale / Re: 113 grill complete with star
« Last post by lurtch on September 01, 2025, 19:01:57 »
Hello Tony,

Just my two-cents here BUT:

Who CARES what the center star looks like from the backside?

Suggest showing photos of the frontside???

Larry in CA
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