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230SL enthusiasts,
It's time to part with my father's prized 230SL w113.
I have a 1964 230SL 4 speed manual hard/soft top for sale in Vancouver, Canada.  Accepting offers greater than $50K usd.
The restoration was completed over 10 years and was not bestoke.  It was DIY with love and care by an old machinist.
Several members from this forum saw the car last fall and remarked how good the car is.
The car's engine was taken apart as dementia set in, and my father was not able to put the car back together.  I paid a MB mechanic to put the engine back together and do the brakes.
The car starts and runs.  I've driven it- but honestly it sits in my garage.  It uses and electric fuel pump to assist with cold starts.  It idles well and settles around 800 rpm.  Warm starts are fine.  Cold starts are more challenging.  Steering is good- not loose.  brakes are solid and responsive.  Suspension is tight- not spungy.  Car runs level and sits nicely on the road.  Toe in/out seems good as well as returning corners and straightening adjusts back to straight running.  Gears are pretty tight... neutral is a little loose, but I don't mind that.
While this is not a project car- it is a car that an enthusiast will want to work on and change.
There are minor blemishes with the paint, as the resto shows its age.
Not original paint code.  It's signal red- should be metalic copper/ bronze
Interior is black- should be brown (according to the VIN plate)
Muffler needs replacing... and maybe exhaust piping
Engine tuning to make it start better would be good.
Maybe minor body work depending how original new owner wants it. (e.g., my dad did some welding on the floor pans.  Didn't use OEM floor pan parts; he used plain metal).  There's not bondo on the car
Has the jump seat in the back
lots of chrome in good shape
great dash with paint, leather and wood to boot.

The car comes with lots of paperwork- its a great story how it crossed the Atlantic several times and has been in Germany twice with the USAF; then England and eventually Vacaville and finally Sacramento, California.  I have two binders of bills of sale, history, receipts, customs doc's, etc as well as mechanical drawings, technical data and engine measurements// tolerances that were hand drawn during the restoration... Earliest document I could find dates back to 1968.

Car was garage kept, and only driven in sunny days... and not often.  If you're interested, or would like more information/ pics or video you may DM or message me.
Thanks, Peter
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General Discussion / Re: Hood release cable
« Last post by Ed Riefstahl on April 19, 2024, 21:30:40 »
Yeah Maz,
Yep, very similar. I removed the hood latch and attached a secondary cable directly to the latch mechanism. I mainly did this because we're taking an extensive road trip this summer in our SL, and remember all too well, my friend having his break.

If I remember correctly, the cable broke where it attaches to the latch mechanism. A real nightmare for him.

I realize this is a bit extreme, but lets face it, these cars are past 50 years old and metal does fatigue over time. I had the hood latch brake on my Ford Ranger in my driveway. That was a real pain, however the latch is in the front on a Ranger. I can't even imagine trying to get the hood open on one of these SLs, let alone a thousand miles from home. Like I said, peace of mind, that's all.

Ed Riefstahl
1966 230SL (Ms Magoo) Horizon Blue
1970 280S (Miss Daisy)
1999 BMW Z3 5 speed
1991 BMW 318I 5 Speed
1997 Toyota Paseo Convertible - One of 1000, (have you ever seen one?)
1997 Ford Ranger step side (Mater)
2023 Mazda CX 5




 
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: "Metal or Plastic "(bakelite)
« Last post by Benz Dr. on April 19, 2024, 21:14:35 »
For the most part, the plug wire ends with metal covers are similar to those without shielding.  Same basic equipment only with metal covers. 
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Way Off Topic / Re: Milestones
« Last post by JamesL on April 19, 2024, 20:39:14 »
Many congrats. Your son-in-law is a lucky chap.
It does, however, beg the question... who's gonna accompany you to Luxembourg?
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: ReChrome
« Last post by brucenator on April 19, 2024, 19:48:56 »
Try checking https://www.mbclassics.de as they have a lot of MB chrome parts in stock and cheaper then some rechroming.
g
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: "Metal or Plastic "(bakelite)
« Last post by lpeterssen on April 19, 2024, 19:25:32 »
Dear JB

A w113-230Sl harness can be converted to use the bakelite plug in connector.

Bakelite plug in connector was used on newer cars like 280SL

The cylindrical pins that go inside a rounded 8 terminals connector can be adjusted by pressing them is they are loose, or the pins itself can be changed for new ones which sell for about 2$ each

Best regards
Lp
Www.wiredoktor.com

Dear friends

I understood bad Sadies question. I though he was talking about the IGNITION TUMBLER SWITCH, and not as I now realize he was talking about the IGNITION PLUGS wire connectors

Pay no attention to my previous answer

Best regards
Lp
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Research & Development / Valve springs
« Last post by russelljones48 on April 19, 2024, 17:52:31 »
I'm looking for replacement innner and outer valve springs.  Does anyone have a recommendation for the specific springs (perhaps better steel or materials) as well as a supplier?
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: "Metal or Plastic "(bakelite)
« Last post by John Betsch - "SADIE" on April 19, 2024, 17:39:33 »
Could I, if I might, tag on another question. 

Does anyone know or point me to a chart of the lengths of the ignition wires.  The ones that were just put on seem long with lots of extra wire, especially the one to to the coil?  I don't have the old ones to compare.

v/r
JB
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: "Metal or Plastic "(bakelite)
« Last post by Pawel66 on April 19, 2024, 16:45:42 »
John,

Some hints here perhaps: https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=27585.msg198220#msg198220

I am not sure about the 90 deg connector for the cylinder No. 1 - I am often reading it should be used there.

What you describe as "lose bakelite" connectors might have been that way because they were of the wrong kind, not because they were bakelite.

Check it out also here: https://www.sls-hh-shop.de/main/de/mercedes-230-280sl-w113/15-motorelektrik/15-a-zuendung-traditionell-

I will check later what EPC says about 90 degree connector - it is not working right now.
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: "Metal or Plastic "(bakelite)
« Last post by lpeterssen on April 19, 2024, 16:17:55 »
Dear JB

A w113-230Sl harness can be converted to use the bakelite plug in connector.

Bakelite plug in connector was used on newer cars like 280SL

The cylindrical pins that go inside a rounded 8 terminals connector can be adjusted by pressing them is they are loose, or the pins itself can be changed for new ones which sell for about 2$ each

Best regards
Lp
Www.wiredoktor.com
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