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Don't know if these are 5.5" or 6", but I plan on using 6" aluminums.

Anyone run 225s like this car on ebay right now and not rub?
I enlarged a photo of the PS fluid reservoir and zoomed in on the wing nut.  I then went for a direct look with the aid of a magnifying glass. There is visible paint in the corners where fingers would not have rubbed.  At least on my late build 71, it came with the wing nut matching the paint of the reservoir.

Thanks to all who added to this thread. I’ve ended up with Eastwood Chassis Black Extreme in both the primer and finish.  I will post pix when completed. 
I use the Eastwood chassis black extreme on my radiator tanks and never had any issues for several years. It is probably near its max temp range, but is doing well.
Get a piece of a pool noodle the length of the window, and cover it with fleece fabric.
When you fold the top down, enclose it with the noodle on the middle of the window - prevents the window from rubbing on itself and the edges
John so true. I got digs for a rear fog light, judge not realizing that a European specs car delivered in Germany was built with rear fog light (as per Data Card).  Rear fog lights were mandatory in Germany back in 1970.  I did appeal the judge and was given the lost points back. I have a reprint copy in German of MB build sheets that tell you all of the combinations of colors, exterior and interior groupings, but no mention of steering wheels and shift knob colors that would be built with a color grouping. Must be what ever color was in the parts bins at the time the car came thru the line.
Something to be very careful about is that the soft top window is very easy to scratch. I wiped it with a new micro fiber cloth and it caused a slight scratch. I guess you have to use a completely wet cloth. these windows are high maintenance.
Question and comments on Originality / Re: VIN Number Plate
« Last post by A65006500 on October 01, 2022, 23:50:01 »
I guess the odd question that I have which other members here may be able to answer is does anyone have a chassis number that starts with the model 113.043 and then 33 rather than 20, 22 or any other number.

This car should have 113.04.22 as it’s RHD and AUTO. I am unclear why there is a ‘33’. This is from the official government ID docs what is called the DVLA V5. The seller does not have a data book.

I am going to check to see if I can find the edged chassis number on the frame to see what that reads but as explained there is no VIN plate on this car as it has been removed.

Interestingly the data plate on the car does state 113.04.22 with the car options and colour
Photo Gallery / Photos from Sept 18/22 Concourse d’Elegance
« Last post by Rolf-Dieter on October 01, 2022, 23:13:11 »
On September 18, 2022 the 8th Concourse d’Elegance took place on the Cobble Beach Golf Course. I shall [pst quite a few photos (photos need to be reduced in size). Only 2 Members had cars on the show field (the golf course). They are Peter Jedicke with his total restored 1965 Mercedes Benz 230 SL Pagoda and our last Membership Administrator Hugh Rawling with his newly acquired 1988 Ferrari Testarossa.

It was a great event, early in the morning at the hotel we did have some rain drops, however for the rest of the day it did clear up. This was the 8th Concourse d’Elegance at the Cobble Beach Golf Course (cancelled in 2020 and 2021 due to Covit19).

I shall post 4 reduced photos from Peter and Hugh first and additional photos later once I reduced the size of those photos.

Question and comments on Originality / Re: VIN Number Plate
« Last post by lreppond on October 01, 2022, 22:59:16 »
If BobH is willing to give you some insights, by all means avail yourself of that opportunity.  He’s active with these cars and from all I’ve been able to gather very knowledgeable.  That is the beauty of being a member here!

If you’re looking at a 250SL it’s VIN should be 113.043.20 if RHD manual or .22 if a RHD automatic.  After that there is another sequence of six numbers that are unique to the specific car.  If the car has a proper 250SL engine, the block stamp should read 129.982 followed by 20 or 22 as above followed by specific numbers unique to engine. The only way you can know if it’s numbers match is by the data card which contains the original engine number.  The 180G is silver grey metallic paint. It was a very popular color for many Mercedes of the period. Typically, it came with either black, blue, red or  cognac
interiors but other interior colors could be had as well. 

On YouTube there is a series of videos by Bob of Cascadia (Portland, OR) called the Pagoda buyers guide that you should definitely watch before going back to see the car.  You’ll have a much better understanding of what to look for and what to ask. 

You’re definitely on the right track and I hope you find at least some of this helpful in your quest for a nice Pagoda.
Hi Ed

Sorry to hear about your problems with your 230SL. :(

Have you checked that it is not one of the joints, rubber connection plate etc. in either end of the drive-shaft which have given up?

Normally, the differential does not give up like this, but will start making noises much before any mechanical failure. But have you identified, if you still have oil in the differential?

Is it a manual or automatic 230SL you have?



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