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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Factory exhaust pics needed
« Last post by Pawel66 on Today at 20:50:56 »Maybe of help. Motoring investments and Holy Grail may be helpful...
Recent Posts
2
Electrical and Instruments / Re: Anyone with an electric mystery needed to be solved
« Last post by lpeterssen on Today at 20:21:46 »Dear Tim
Regarding the green wires next to the mechanical fuel injection pump we need to know which year is your w113-280SL
I think that line is related to the fuel cut off selenoid which is part of the emission control
System.
Make a search on this forum for EMISSION CONTROL system and read and learn all you can about it.
Then come to your own conclusion if you want it to be wired on or not.
Best regards
Eng Leonardo Peterssen
Www.wiredoktor.com
Regarding the green wires next to the mechanical fuel injection pump we need to know which year is your w113-280SL
I think that line is related to the fuel cut off selenoid which is part of the emission control
System.
Make a search on this forum for EMISSION CONTROL system and read and learn all you can about it.
Then come to your own conclusion if you want it to be wired on or not.
Best regards
Eng Leonardo Peterssen
Www.wiredoktor.com
3
Electrical and Instruments / Re: Anyone with an electric mystery needed to be solved
« Last post by lpeterssen on Today at 20:16:59 »Dear Tim
Those red and red/green wires are for the power antenna / radio installation. They should matched to an auxiliary 2 port fuse box.
They can not be used to feed energy to an AC system since their gauge is very small.
Best regards
Eng Leonardo Peterssen
Www.wiredoktor.com
Those red and red/green wires are for the power antenna / radio installation. They should matched to an auxiliary 2 port fuse box.
They can not be used to feed energy to an AC system since their gauge is very small.
Best regards
Eng Leonardo Peterssen
Www.wiredoktor.com
4
Electrical and Instruments / Re: Anyone with an electric mystery needed to be solved
« Last post by gunbarrel1 on Today at 20:09:31 »Thank you BobH. Those links were exactly what I needed. My biggest problems are just about resolved, but I do have a few more questions.
When the car arrived, there were many loose wires in the engine compartment, some of which helped resolve the problems with the cold start system when they were attached. (including the bundle of ground wires which bolt to the relay bracket on the left side, above the windshield wiper relay)
There is still a green wire, wrapped in black vinyl which comes out of the harness next to the injection pump on the left side of the engine compartment. I have not been able to find a home for this wire which has a small ring terminal on the end. I was thinking maybe tach signal, but the tach works after the wiring repair.
Also on the right side of the engine compartment, next to the coolant expansion tank, there are two wires which protrude from the factory wiring harness. One is red, and always has power. (terminal 30) There is another which is red with a green trace which switches power with the key. (terminal 15) The brilliant air conditioner installers had them twisted together, and attached to the A/C system. Are these wires provided to facilitate aftermarket A/C installation? Is there another purpose for these wires? I will not try to repair the aftermarket air conditioner right now, as the refrigerant hoses are substandard at best, and the compressor pulley makes a high pitch whining noise.
Once again, thank you (profoundly), and any additional help is greatly appreciated.
Tim
When the car arrived, there were many loose wires in the engine compartment, some of which helped resolve the problems with the cold start system when they were attached. (including the bundle of ground wires which bolt to the relay bracket on the left side, above the windshield wiper relay)
There is still a green wire, wrapped in black vinyl which comes out of the harness next to the injection pump on the left side of the engine compartment. I have not been able to find a home for this wire which has a small ring terminal on the end. I was thinking maybe tach signal, but the tach works after the wiring repair.
Also on the right side of the engine compartment, next to the coolant expansion tank, there are two wires which protrude from the factory wiring harness. One is red, and always has power. (terminal 30) There is another which is red with a green trace which switches power with the key. (terminal 15) The brilliant air conditioner installers had them twisted together, and attached to the A/C system. Are these wires provided to facilitate aftermarket A/C installation? Is there another purpose for these wires? I will not try to repair the aftermarket air conditioner right now, as the refrigerant hoses are substandard at best, and the compressor pulley makes a high pitch whining noise.
Once again, thank you (profoundly), and any additional help is greatly appreciated.
Tim
5
Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Factory exhaust pics needed
« Last post by wwheeler on Today at 17:54:16 »Does anybody have pics of the original exhaust cross over on the front pipes? Its just in front of the muffler and near the transmission. Also need a pic of the muffler shield on the front side of the muffler.
Thanks!
Thanks!
6
Electrical and Instruments / Re: Anyone with an electric mystery needed to be solved
« Last post by BobH on Today at 16:00:19 »Hello Tim, you'll see on the wiring schematic that the door open and low brake fluid level both use the same warning lamp on the instrument cluster, hence when the fluid is low, or a float has sunk, possibly due to a hole in it, and the door is open, a +ve feeds back to the fuses and ignition switch. A diode in line will fix the problem
Have a look on here for the back feed problem, and on the other two links for the 12 pin connector wire colours
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Brake/LowFluidWarningLight
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/InstrumentCluster
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/SteeringColumnSwitch
Have a look on here for the back feed problem, and on the other two links for the 12 pin connector wire colours
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Brake/LowFluidWarningLight
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/InstrumentCluster
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/SteeringColumnSwitch
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Engine Problems + Excessive Wear on Rockers = OIL!
« Last post by Benz Dr. on Today at 15:44:28 »Hei,
Click on the image and the browser shows you the complete image.
Funny thing, for 190SL you use 10W-30 because it is recommended. On 280SL not.
I agree that this level of destruction of the rocker arms is maybe a reason of weak material.
But the whole lubrication of camshaft and valvetrain is a weak point because of no pressurized oil support. The same as on 190SL engine.
Not really. There are many parts in our engines that receive barrier lubrication yet don't just fall apart. Those rockers were defective - not an oil related problem.
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Anyone with an electric mystery needed to be solved
« Last post by gunbarrel1 on Today at 15:30:21 »Hello. I am Tim at Gunbarrel
Imports. I have a real interesting electrical nightmare in a manner of writing. There is a 1969 280SL in the shop currently. When it arrived, the car seemed to run okay, but there was literally a pushbutton switch under the dash to operate the cold start valve, and fuse #1 was not installed. I successfully straightened out the cold start system, and removed the pushbutton. Upon inserting fuse #1, I found that the engine would continue to run if the ignition switch was moved to position 0 with the door open. The door open indicator was illuminated all the time, and the light above flickered. Upon investigation, I found that , with the door open, there was a short between the load side of fuse 1, and the supply side of fuses 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. I found two literal meltdowns in the wiring harness beneath the driver's side dash/above the pedals area. The most severely damaged wires seem to be the grey/blue wires associated with interior lighting.
Even after separating the melted wiring, the short between fuse 1 (terminal 30) and the subsequent five fuses (terminals 15/54) did not disappear until the brake fluid level sensors were unplugged.
It is perplexing to me why the brake fluid level sensors should be supplied power when the door is open, but unless I misread the wiring diagram, it is the case.
Having written that, The melted wiring was associated with the twelve pin connector fastened with three screws to the metal plate which houses another clipped twelve pin connector, and the turn signal flasher. It was both above the hood release, and again on the other side of the twelve pin connector, fastened with screws to the metal plate, as the wiring rises behind the instruments.
I have separated out the wiring, and performed replacement of the damaged portions of wiring.
My main question is: Is there an accurate pinout of the wiring positions in the twelve pin connector attached with three screws to the metal plate? When I removed the connector from the plate, some of the pins popped out, and I would like to insure that the pins are inserted in the correct position. I do not see this twelve pin connector represented on the wiring diagram or in the technical manual.
Also, when the wiring was separated , and the brake fluid reservoir sensors disconnected, there was approximately 35 ohms of resistance between the load side of fuse 1 and the supply side of the 15/54 fuses. The resistance also measured approximately 35 ohms with the door closed, so I know that it is enough to shut off the engine, but is it a correct reading?
Any help or advice you might have is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Imports. I have a real interesting electrical nightmare in a manner of writing. There is a 1969 280SL in the shop currently. When it arrived, the car seemed to run okay, but there was literally a pushbutton switch under the dash to operate the cold start valve, and fuse #1 was not installed. I successfully straightened out the cold start system, and removed the pushbutton. Upon inserting fuse #1, I found that the engine would continue to run if the ignition switch was moved to position 0 with the door open. The door open indicator was illuminated all the time, and the light above flickered. Upon investigation, I found that , with the door open, there was a short between the load side of fuse 1, and the supply side of fuses 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. I found two literal meltdowns in the wiring harness beneath the driver's side dash/above the pedals area. The most severely damaged wires seem to be the grey/blue wires associated with interior lighting.
Even after separating the melted wiring, the short between fuse 1 (terminal 30) and the subsequent five fuses (terminals 15/54) did not disappear until the brake fluid level sensors were unplugged.
It is perplexing to me why the brake fluid level sensors should be supplied power when the door is open, but unless I misread the wiring diagram, it is the case.
Having written that, The melted wiring was associated with the twelve pin connector fastened with three screws to the metal plate which houses another clipped twelve pin connector, and the turn signal flasher. It was both above the hood release, and again on the other side of the twelve pin connector, fastened with screws to the metal plate, as the wiring rises behind the instruments.
I have separated out the wiring, and performed replacement of the damaged portions of wiring.
My main question is: Is there an accurate pinout of the wiring positions in the twelve pin connector attached with three screws to the metal plate? When I removed the connector from the plate, some of the pins popped out, and I would like to insure that the pins are inserted in the correct position. I do not see this twelve pin connector represented on the wiring diagram or in the technical manual.
Also, when the wiring was separated , and the brake fluid reservoir sensors disconnected, there was approximately 35 ohms of resistance between the load side of fuse 1 and the supply side of the 15/54 fuses. The resistance also measured approximately 35 ohms with the door closed, so I know that it is enough to shut off the engine, but is it a correct reading?
Any help or advice you might have is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
9
Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Engine Problems + Excessive Wear on Rockers = OIL!
« Last post by MartinK on Today at 15:21:51 »I have 280SL, driving summer, so sticking to 50. I use 10W30 for 190SL as this is what the manual is saying there.
I also believe, although, again, I am not an expert, that none of the recently shown examples of destroyed rockers, camshafts or crankshaft journals or bearings is the result of using oil grade of 30 instead of 50 or vice-versa.
Hei,
Click on the image and the browser shows you the complete image.
Funny thing, for 190SL you use 10W-30 because it is recommended. On 280SL not.
I agree that this level of destruction of the rocker arms is maybe a reason of weak material.
But the whole lubrication of camshaft and valvetrain is a weak point because of no pressurized oil support. The same as on 190SL engine.
10
Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Engine Problems + Excessive Wear on Rockers = OIL!
« Last post by Lori on Today at 14:18:13 »Here is what is in the US owners manual