Recent Posts

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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Replacement turn signal switch
« Last post by Mpfalkowski on Today at 00:09:34 »
I purchased one about a year ago from our local dealer. Mine didn’t “hold” on turn; so I purchased one for the future.
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Electrical and Instruments / Replacement turn signal switch
« Last post by plobner on Today at 00:04:04 »
At PagodaWorld 2019, I recall hearing someone say that a replacement turn signal switch had been impossible to get until recently when a newly-manufactured switch became available from some source.  Does anyone know more to this story, and in particular, who is selling the replacement part?
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Have you check out Johnk ‘s thread?

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=26132.0

He’s documented his restoration pretty completely and it could be helpful to you. 
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All good.  Got in touch with Joe!
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Cold Starting Valve
« Last post by Pawel66 on December 11, 2019, 22:53:00 »
Sorry for my poor English - by "blue thunder" i meant - when you crank the engine in the dark and there are shorts in the ignition leads, cap or connectors, you may see it as blue sparks between those elements and ground. The good spark on the spark plug should be seen clearly in ambient light.

I had the cap spring gone lose on my 123. It caused cap being lose and this in turn caused broken coal connector between the cap and rotor. Then I heard from other Members about this springs going lose - that is why i wrote about it.

Stuck pump rack - if you go to this link:

https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Fuel/Injection#Pump

and take a look at the first picture under the chapter Operation, you will see where the access is to the pump rack is. The picture does not show the cup that covers this access and needs to be unscrewed. If you have this M4 threaded hole in the tip of the rack, screw in an M4 screw and push the rack backwards gently - it should move backwards with some resistance, but smoothly and then (as it is spring-loaded) it should return. This rack is a toothed bar that moves back and forth causing the Fuel Injection Pump pistons to turn and move. if it is stuck, it means one or more pistons are stuck and are not working. You can try to push the rack in without the screw, but then it may be dificult to pull it back out in case it sticks.

I am enclosing a good guide to work through starting topics systematically, which saves time vs. "shooting from the hip", that even I can understand and follow. Of course not 100% for our cars, but gives a general idea where to start.
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Hi Guys,
Does anyone know, or would hazard a guess at the weight of a fully stripped down Pagoda?
I am considering stripping mine down to bare bones for a rotisserie restoration.
Any rotisserie sketches, plans and/or advice will be much appreciated.
Regards
Chris
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General Discussion / Re: Parts Florida Area
« Last post by doitwright on December 11, 2019, 21:02:02 »
During the entire restoration process of my car I do not believe I purchased anything locally. I am in the Chicago area. Everything was bought from online vendors and the Classic Center.

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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Cold Starting Valve
« Last post by teahead on December 11, 2019, 19:06:58 »
Clean the relay for the TTS.  I.e. open up the box and check the contacts, etc.

BTW, I have a brand new CSV (Bosch) that I'm not using.

Looks like this:

https://www.authenticclassics.com/product-p/auth-003022.htm
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I have original MB Tex in my car from 1966 -- looks almost new.  Amazing stuff.  I use one of these covers when I'm in the sun during the day.  Seems to really reduce the heat load on the instrument panel.  It fits well and it's cheap.  https://www.covercraft.com/us/en/product/original-dashmat-custom-dash-cover.DMC
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Hi all - for some reason I am unable to PM Joe as it does not appear to be going through.  Does anyone have his email address, or Joe, if you see this, can you PM me?

Best,
Ted
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