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91
Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Securing the radiator
« Last post by Pawel66 on July 11, 2025, 10:38:46 »
The screws are 4pcs N 304017 006016, looks like M6x12 (from conversion table), but check the length, 12mm may be too short.

Do not forget the rubber pads 2pcs A 113 502 00 30 (available at Mercedes).
92
It’s interesting Pawel that such a minor deviation from true in one component caused vibrations. Given that, it’s  surprising that most drivelines run smoothly. I guess something like that may not be apparent on a GoPro camera either.
It sounds like an issue for the workshop who did the swap Christian (or did you do it yourself?)

Indeed! But the tolerances came from the book. Grinding the flange on the lathe fixed it. I saw the car on the dyno and I saw the shaft going sideways under load.

I have also learned many things about these shafts - angles, position of yokes vs. each other, etc.. I thought before it was just a question of balancing... well, it was not.
93
It’s interesting Pawel that such a minor deviation from true in one component caused vibrations. Given that, it’s  surprising that most drivelines run smoothly. I guess something like that may not be apparent on a GoPro camera either.
It sounds like an issue for the workshop who did the swap Christian (or did you do it yourself?)

Thanks a lot for your input, and I have indeed an appointment the coming Monday with the workshop, who did the Getrag 5-speed installation. They will raise it on the lift and take a look what is causing the vibrations.

I will keep you posted, once I have news from the workshop. :-)

By the way, about the Getrag, then it is running smoothly in all gears (except reverse where I sometimes have to work it a bit in and out to avoid "teeth brushing" and make it engage) with ATF Dextron III, although with a slight bit of gearbox noise, also when warm at certain rpm levels.

In connection with the visit to the workshop, I will therefore also ask them to change the ATF again in the gearbox, as the gearbox had an unknown past history and was a bit of a gamble to install, and after 1300 km it may be good to flush the oil out and refresh with new oil. But I have also asked them to add some engine/gearbox add-on, which I have with succes used before in the engine oil in my other cars, and which reduces the internal friction between contact surfaces. It is not a Teflon based product, but it chemically works with the internal contact surfaces and makes them smoother. I am thinking that this may cure some of the slight noises, the gearbox makes and will extend the lifetime of the gearbox.

What are your views on this?

Cheers,
Christian
94
It’s interesting Pawel that such a minor deviation from true in one component caused vibrations. Given that, it’s  surprising that most drivelines run smoothly. I guess something like that may not be apparent on a GoPro camera either.
It sounds like an issue for the workshop who did the swap Christian (or did you do it yourself?)
95
Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Easy FIP timing test
« Last post by sens on July 11, 2025, 07:21:24 »
Thanks for your reply Joe!!
I am sure that will work.

What do you think of the procedure I described?

Have a good day!

Halvor
96
Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Easy FIP timing test
« Last post by ja17 on July 11, 2025, 04:10:13 »
I have a method to check if the timing is 180 degrees off without removing the pump. It is not for fine adjustment of the timing but will save you from removing the IP if you are not sure. Remove the injection line on #4 cylinder of the injection pump (3rd from the back). The piston (plunger) #4 cylinder in this injection pump should be at top of it's stroke at 12 degrees after TDC of the engine cylinder #1 (compression stroke, both camshaft lobes upward). If the engine IP is timed 180 degrees off the #3 IP piston (plunger) will be down. This method will only tell you if the timing is grossly off of spec, like 180 off.
97
The rubber is not critical. However, it does dampen the noise and shock from metal to metal contact if the mounts are bad and the car is driven on rough roads. These "metal plates" also prevent excessive upward movement of the engine when the mounts are bad.
98
Hello Urban, this key is available and not expensive. Yours looks ok but you might consider changing it if it is worn at all. You must be extremely careful to keep this key in place during assembly. If it moves out of the slotted ring you will have lot of problems. You can use a section of rubber hose with hose clamp, to hold the slotted ring tightly pressing and holding the slotted ring in place during assembly. The lower gear cluster also has a larger key which I almost always change also. It is often worn or even broken in half. You must press apart the lower gear cluster to get to the key.
99
Items for Sale / 450SEL 6.9 Starter Solenoid (NOS) - $150
« Last post by slschock on July 11, 2025, 03:13:02 »
New, Old Stock starter solenoid for 450SEL 6.9 starter motor. Brand new, original Mercedes part, never installed. Part is obsolete and is no longer available from Mercedes Benz, nor from Bosch. It can be shipped for a minimal amount. I also have one remaining 6.9 starter drive pinion (bendix drive) for the same starter. See the listing in this same category.
Located in Poway, CA. Still available as of July 14, 2025

Mercedes part # 000 152 46 10
Bosch part # 0 331 303 021
100
Items for Sale / 450SEL 6.9 Starter Drive Pinion (NOS)- $150
« Last post by slschock on July 11, 2025, 03:10:29 »
New, old stock (NOS) starter drive pinion (Bendix drive) for 450SEL 6.9 starter motor. $150  Brand new, never installed part. Part is obsolete and is no longer available from Mercedes Benz, nor from Bosch. This can be shipped for a minimal amount. I also have a starter solenoid for the 450SEL 6.9. See the listing in this same category. Located in Poway, CA Still available as of July 14, 2025

Mercedes part # 000 151 67 13
Bosch part # 1 006 209 451
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