Recent Posts

21

Electrical and Instruments / Battery not charging fully while idleing

« Last post by OldGuard60 on April 24, 2024, 22:41:51 »

Just had AAA come out and check my battery on my 280SL (71) and he said at idle, it's not charging the battery.  Only does it when we revved it up to 2K+.  Does this imply the alternator (and/or battery) is going bad?
Here are the results:
Test Data:
Overall Result: CAUTION
The battery may be serviceable but with decreased capability to start the engine.
State of Health: 83%
State of Charge: 93%
Voltage: 12.54 V

Battery Details:
Type: FLOODED
Set Capacity: 730 CCA/SAE
Measure Capacity: 610 CCA/SAE

System Details:
Starter Voltage: NORMAL / 11.08 V
Idle Voltage: LOW / 12.22 V
Idle (with load) Voltage: LOW / 12.29 V
Diode Ripple: NORMAL / 0.07 V

Thanks in advance.
OG

22

General Discussion / Re: How to get the paint code from the vin#?

« Last post by alabbasi on April 24, 2024, 20:06:21 »

Thank you. I fat fingered the response. I meant DB180 which appears to be the only silver available at the time. I owned a Mercedes Benz 6.3 that was the same color for a while.

I found a picture of it in the current state. I don't think there's any paint on it anywhere that's not primer.

23

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Red dot on engine mounts

« Last post by wwheeler on April 24, 2024, 19:13:33 »

The color of the dot is supposed to indicated the hardness of the rubber used for the mount. There is also a green dot on some and in theory is a different hardness. Not sure if they actually stick to that convention now. I tried finding the color code but haven't located it.

24

General Discussion / Re: How to get the paint code from the vin#?

« Last post by BobH on April 24, 2024, 18:47:22 »

Thanks all, it's silver but not astral silver (DB735). Here's some before pictures:



The car has been thoroughly dismantled, sand blasted and repaired (properly since being returned). It's now a bare shell in primer.

I don't have any recent pictures but here's one of the front structure going in


I suspect the color is DB181 which paintscratch shows as the only silver available in 1970. What do you all think?

Hello, 181 is a solid colour, beige, not silver.  180 is the only silver available for W113's

The colours are in the tech manual, see link below, but you'll need to be a full member to access the link, registering would be well worth it if you're starting the restoration, i can't see how you could manage it without the valuable information in the manual

https://www.sl113.org/wiki/DataCard/PaintCodes

25

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Red dot on engine mounts

« Last post by Benz Dr. on April 24, 2024, 18:29:36 »

I think the red dots point towards the front of the car. If you can see an arrow and "vorn" on the top of the mount that's a directional message.

26

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: So, is water supposed to come out of this hole?

« Last post by Benz Dr. on April 24, 2024, 18:26:14 »

Looks like it's not a blind hole. I use Permatex thread sealer on applications like that.

27

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: So, is water supposed to come out of this hole?

« Last post by roymil on April 24, 2024, 18:20:16 »

Yes, I was hoping it would be something like that for M130.   I just need confirmation that the #3 cylinder stud is indeed drilled thru to water a channel.   If so, I'd be very happy and then just need to know a proper procedure for replacing it to prevent leaks.   I assume some sort of sealant is needed on the stud threads.   I dont want to guess about that.
any help appreciated. thanks!

28

Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: New windshield Installation

« Last post by acbrock on April 24, 2024, 17:18:18 »

Seems like there are 2 opinions on the Chrome/Rubber install.  Rubber to Glass, then Chrome or Chrome to Rubber then to the glass?  Do both work?  I have don't Rubber to Glass then chrome.  But I am having trouble with a 1 maybe 2 of the corners staying seated.  Thinking in might try to pull it off and try it the other way?  But if I am misreading maybe that is a waste of time...  Any thought before I take it off and start again... maybe 3rd time is then charm.  It is sitting outside in the sound now so just letting it heat up before I start attacking it again.

29

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: So, is water supposed to come out of this hole?

« Last post by WRe on April 24, 2024, 16:59:21 »

Hi,
I know this from an M127 cylinder head in which the stud channels were drilled through to the water channels.
I would take a look into the channel if there are some irregularities.
...WRe

30

Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Windshield Rubber

« Last post by acbrock on April 24, 2024, 16:40:41 »

Off this has been a task!  But used a couple different ideas mentioned.  Finally got it on and it was not fitting into the car so I thought I did something wrong.  So instead of pushing too hard I just started over.  Funny how easy things are the 2nd time!  So got the rubber on in about 1/2 working in the sun with some warm soapy water..... now.....

So the aluminum trim.   It is 95% in.  Lifts a little on 2 of the corners...  What is the best way to deal with this?  I have some clamps on it right now.  Should I just let it sit?  Or is there a way to help the aluminum mold into the rubber?  Heat?  Just pressure?  Or do I need to take out and reform it?

(extra side question...  My aluminum is pretty dull.   How would I polish this up?  I read that it is not like the rest of then chrome and it is anodized?