Recent Posts

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31
Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Windshield Rubber
« Last post by Duncan200 on April 17, 2024, 12:47:19 »
Forgot to mention I used windex as my lubricant to fit the seal.
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Windshield Rubber
« Last post by kampala on April 17, 2024, 12:33:04 »
Kampala and I put in a new windshield rubber a few years ago and it wasn't too bad.


Yes.  It went quite smoothly . Fit rubber around windshield (the right way), push-in the metal trim onto the rubber, insert the rope into the rubber, then offer the windshield to the car and line up and make sure rope is inside car.  One person gently pushes on the windshield from outside and the other person pulls the rope carefully on the inside. 

Lots of info on this forum and on YouTube for similar set ups.

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=34403.msg252317#msg252317
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Windshield Rubber
« Last post by Cees Klumper on April 17, 2024, 12:17:50 »
Kampala and I put in a new windshield rubber a few years ago and it wasn't too bad. As I recall we intitially put it on backwards, it's not that intuitive. We did use some seal lubricant I had left over from the windshield seals replacement I did on my son's 240Z, I recommend this stuff for any weatherstrip installation that is 'tight':

https://zcardepot.com/products/copy-of-windshield-weatherstrip-trim-plastic-install-tool

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I had this axle swap done many moons ago (I reckon 20 years ago) as my car is a 1969 US spec 280SL automatic which means 4.08 rear diff ratio originally. I too was unhappy with the high revs at speed and since it was a daily driver at the time I wanted to lower them. I had a 3.69 put in which lowered revs by about 10%. The car is still plenty quick off the line for me and I love the lower rpms at speed. For me it has been a great improvement. Have not adjusted the speedo gear which now reads too low. Remember that if you want to burn rubber you can always start with the selector in '2' and it will take off in first gear, then 'upshift' as it acellerates. Or press the acellerator all the way through the kickdown switch and again it will take off in 1st gear.
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Hi Pawel

I thought that too but nothing is showing in the parts book.
The cold start solenoid has a crush washer next to it but this one doesn’t.

So I am little confused.
I guess there’s no harm if I put one in there.
36
Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Emission CO
« Last post by mauro12 on April 17, 2024, 11:10:15 »
Yes a good video would be very helpful for all of us . Especially about the clicks on the pump . The screw is located in not the most comfortable place to touch . I guess with 4% of co , the HC should be within the correct limiit  . 700 HC is too high? What is the cause according to your experience? I believe  is high but not too much . Last time I had 9%of co and 700 of HC . Probably I need to tune a bit better .
37
Electrical and Instruments / Re: Speaker Repair
« Last post by Peter van Es on April 17, 2024, 11:09:18 »
If it is just a small tear in the paper cone, using a coffee filter and glue:

https://300guitars.com/300s-tips/300-tip-how-to-repair-small-tears-in-speaker-cones/#:~:text=Take%20some%20glue%20and%20put,glue%20to%20repair%20the%20tear.

If the rubber between the housing and the paper is disintegrated, there are companies selling kits for that, but maybe not in our shape of loudspeaker. Google for loudspeaker repair... I've found 2 shops in NL and UK (eg: https://speakerrepairshop.nl/en/)
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Aluminum or copper sealing washer, yes. 14mm if memory serves...
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I would keep speedometer in mind with this kind of difference...
40
No, I am sorry, I was selfish, did not go to the transistorized version...
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