Recent Posts

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61
No ballast resistor required for the 123ignition, remove or bypass. Flamethrower should be fine. (123ignition is a good call.)
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Items for Sale / Re: MERCEDES THERMO-TIME SWITCHES 001 545 92 24 $299 EACH
« Last post by clunker on June 27, 2025, 18:49:51 »
Hi Steve - I will take one - have sent you a PM. --Charles
63
I'll buy one, if still available.
Mark
64
Items for Sale / Re: 280SL RIGHT FRONT MARKER LIGHT ASSEMBLY - NOS $50
« Last post by BOTIGER1970 on June 27, 2025, 18:41:38 »
Do you happen to have any of the nuts for the side markers?
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After looking into the 1-2-3 ignition, I think it is probably the best bet with all the unknowns that I have. I've read through the manual and it seems that it doesn't mention a ballast resistor (Mine is bypassed due to the Pertronix ignition), and the wiring diagram doesn't seem to mention it, so I assume I shouldn't have any issues leaving it as is. I was also concerned about my coil, its a "Flamethrower" from Pertronix, but the manual states Stock or "High Energy" so I assume thats good as well.

Thanks for the help everyone!
66
Good idea.

Also, there is an eccentric bolt connecting the brake rod to the booster.  The little mark should point to the rear.

Also 2, there is a plastic stop that fits around the brake light switch.  It has probably fallen apart, and that will increase pedal travel. 

Good luck,

CT
67
Electrical and Instruments / Re: replacing low fuel/reserve bulb
« Last post by Charles 230SL on June 27, 2025, 15:30:48 »
In theory it is possible to replace central instrumentation light bulbs without removing the central instrumentation..if the printed circuit board that is in place behind it has still the original central hand tighten nut. You just unscrew that nut from behind with small hands and pull out the circuit board.  Then disconnect that from the 12 pin female connector below steering wheel and work then in the comfort of your bench..
Thanks gentlemen, and thank you Leonardo for that bit of hope.
Easy to check the circuit feeding the lamp, just link between the brown and blue/green wires in the plug on top of the fuel sender in the boot/trunk, with the ignition on
Thanks Bob, before my original posting I had already unplugged the fuel sender and grounded the W & G terminals, and the R lamp didn't illuminate. Palo Alto Speedo restored the gauges about 13 years ago and I'm sure they would've replaced the R lamp. It's worked fine those (very few) times I needed a reminder to stop and get some fuel.
thanks again guys, vr, Charles
68
Items for Sale / Re: MERCEDES THERMO-TIME SWITCHES 001 545 92 24 $299 EACH
« Last post by gcw206 on June 27, 2025, 14:54:35 »
Hello,

I will take one.  Send me your mailing address, and I will remit.

Thank you,

GCW
69
Wanted To Buy / Re: Crappy old brake calipers 280SL
« Last post by mdsalemi on June 27, 2025, 14:54:16 »
My good friend Eddie Black came through!
Some old ATE calipers were sent to me as "cores" and these have just been shipped out to a rebuilder.
When they return, they'll go on my car, and my "cores" will go out for a rebuild, and go into Eddie's car when he chooses.
70
General Discussion / Re: locked up motor 230sl
« Last post by mdsalemi on June 27, 2025, 14:51:52 »
Hello Matt,

You should consider upgrading to Full Membership...

Now, that being said, I'd store my car each year, from late October/early November, until generally May of the following year, at least 6 months out of each year. Most of the time it was stored in an unheated garage in central Michigan where it gets cold, the likes of which most Brits don't understand. I did this for about 20 years. The home storage there was a home "kept open" in the winter, and on occasion if I went up there in the winter AND the roads were dry, I would take it out for a 10-15 mile "exercise". When the car was stored each autumn, it was freshly washed and with a full tank of gas, with stabilizer added. E10 10% ethanol gas. In storage I disconnect the battery by removing the ground strap. Each spring my car never failed to start although on some occasions I did need to charge the battery a bit.

I was always told that just starting and warming it up wasn't good. Run the car.

In all those years--probably about 20--my engine never failed to turn over.

While anything is possible, if your car started and warmed up recently, I can hardly believe it became "seized" during storage.

One thing to fully check is your starter motor and the cable going to it. Assume this is an issue before thinking it's the engine internals. I might say otherwise if it's been sitting for years never started with unknown conditions.
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