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Photo Gallery / Re: Sunny Sunday
« Last post by RAY on Today at 17:54:49 » Looking great in the sunshine, better weather than the the Ace Café trip 
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / case for cleaning your intake manifold
« Last post by roymil on Today at 17:47:32 »I had pulled my intake manifold in the process of reworking the entire exhaust system (i'm getting Timevalve setup next week!) and I noticed quite a lot of carbon built up throughout the manifold. Mostly very thick black oily build up around the cold start valve area but down by the cylinders it was also quite thick and looked like charcoal, just what you would find on a chimney wall or an oven that hasn't been cleaned in 50years. See the before and after cleaning pictures below and note the size of the mound of carbon I pulled out, and that's not even half of it.
I estimate it was about 1mm thick everywhere and very rough, which must reduce available airflow volume. I'm sure the fuel injection pump is optimally adjusted assuming a clean intake, so effectively this sort of airflow impedance must also cause a rich bias to the mixture which further reduces power and efficiency (milage) .
The openings into the head are slightly oval (39mm x 35mm) so if you assume an average of 37mm and reduce that to 35mm when dirty, surprisingly it works out to over 10% reduction in cross-sectional area, at least for my case. I'm sure air velocity increases, but so does turbulence with the dirty rough walls, so there's probably no way to know the true full impact without some careful experiments that I would love to do if it didnt add to my downtime.
In any case, the bottom line is that a clean manifold should run more efficiently than a dirty one and allow for up to 10% more air intake and power output, especially when your foot is planted on the floor as mine is not so infrequently. I dont know that I would pull it just to clean it, but if you have other reasons to remove it, then I would highly recommend allowing time to properly clean your intake. Please comment if you have ideas other than elbow grease to get it clean. I've scraped it out pretty well and plan to soak the whole thing in a special aluminum friendly carbon cleaner next.
I estimate it was about 1mm thick everywhere and very rough, which must reduce available airflow volume. I'm sure the fuel injection pump is optimally adjusted assuming a clean intake, so effectively this sort of airflow impedance must also cause a rich bias to the mixture which further reduces power and efficiency (milage) .
The openings into the head are slightly oval (39mm x 35mm) so if you assume an average of 37mm and reduce that to 35mm when dirty, surprisingly it works out to over 10% reduction in cross-sectional area, at least for my case. I'm sure air velocity increases, but so does turbulence with the dirty rough walls, so there's probably no way to know the true full impact without some careful experiments that I would love to do if it didnt add to my downtime.
In any case, the bottom line is that a clean manifold should run more efficiently than a dirty one and allow for up to 10% more air intake and power output, especially when your foot is planted on the floor as mine is not so infrequently. I dont know that I would pull it just to clean it, but if you have other reasons to remove it, then I would highly recommend allowing time to properly clean your intake. Please comment if you have ideas other than elbow grease to get it clean. I've scraped it out pretty well and plan to soak the whole thing in a special aluminum friendly carbon cleaner next.
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General Discussion / Re: Concours/Resto Mod Restoration Shop
« Last post by zoegrlh on Today at 17:19:52 »Good answer Mike, if he has that much money sent it off to shop that knows what they are doing.
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General Discussion / Re: Concours/Resto Mod Restoration Shop
« Last post by mdsalemi on Today at 16:46:23 »I thought the April fools jokes were long past.
If you have a client so situated, then they have basically endless amounts of money. Since there’s no substitute for experience, why don’t they just buy a Mechatronic or send the car over there?
If you have a client so situated, then they have basically endless amounts of money. Since there’s no substitute for experience, why don’t they just buy a Mechatronic or send the car over there?
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / funny issue running after sitting for 24 hours (INJECTION PUMP?)
« Last post by milesmac on Today at 15:47:12 »I have a 230 sl which has an R11 pump and is initially presenting as a cold start issue first start of the day is a little slow to get going and will predictably run for 2 seconds first crank, the proceed to die and on second crank will run beautifully and go through the full warm up cycle without hesitation. after testing every piece of the cold start system nothing seems to be at fault I even checked my fuel pump check valves which seem to be in working order as it seemed to be a fuel delivery issue, the caveat to the story is the longer it sits the worse the start up becomes, after a weekend it will run on 3-4 cylinders and die multiple times until finally finding a happy running condition. I am suspicious of the injection pump itself and the possibility of fuel in the injection lines dissipating into the oil system however I cannot smell fuel in the oil so hesitant to condemn the pump.
any info tips or tests to confirm a leaky pump or knowledge on the typical conditions of the pump and injection lines at rest is greatly appreciated. I am rather versed in Mercedes Benz cars so don't be afraid to lay it all out!
any info tips or tests to confirm a leaky pump or knowledge on the typical conditions of the pump and injection lines at rest is greatly appreciated. I am rather versed in Mercedes Benz cars so don't be afraid to lay it all out!
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: automatic return of windshield wipers
« Last post by loic on Today at 15:23:02 »This is not about the return location. It was the windshield wiper that stopped anywhere on the windshield. I have reread the technical manual carefully. After verification and deduction, the problem could only come from the electrical harness. And I found. In fact the connector on the motor was oxidized. So I cleaned and everything works now. THANKS.
Il ne s'agit pas de l'emplacement du retour. c'est l'essuie glace qui s'arrêtait n'importe où sur le pare-brise. J'ai bien relu le manuel technique. Après vérification et déduction, le problème ne pouvait venir que du faisceau électrique. Et j'ai trouvé. En fait le connecteur sur le moteur était oxydé. J'ai donc nettoyé et tout fonctionne à présent. Merci.
Il ne s'agit pas de l'emplacement du retour. c'est l'essuie glace qui s'arrêtait n'importe où sur le pare-brise. J'ai bien relu le manuel technique. Après vérification et déduction, le problème ne pouvait venir que du faisceau électrique. Et j'ai trouvé. En fait le connecteur sur le moteur était oxydé. J'ai donc nettoyé et tout fonctionne à présent. Merci.
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General Discussion / Concours/Resto Mod Restoration Shop
« Last post by RamAir on Today at 14:29:26 »I have a 280SL that is a solid original body and chassis that has had an older cosmetic restoration. My client is interested in having the car restored to concours condition with modern upgrades similar to what Mechatronik is doing in Germany with installing an AMG V8. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Electrical and Instruments / Slotted nut. (Speedometer problem)
« Last post by loic on Today at 14:11:24 »Seen on a message : "my speedometer needle was somehow moving and we determined that the problem was probably that the slotted nutslotted nut that holds the driveshaft flange to the transmission had become loose." It's my problem.
Question : where is this slotted nut. Can you post a photo. and how to tighten it. Thanks
Question : where is this slotted nut. Can you post a photo. and how to tighten it. Thanks
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: automatic return of windshield wipers
« Last post by kampala on Today at 13:53:22 »Bonjour,
Puisque vous êtes un participant à part entière, vous avez accès au manuel technique et au système d'essuie-glace et son emplacement de parking est bien couvert.
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/ChassisBody/Wipers
Since you are a full member, you have access to the technical manual and the wiper system and it's parking location is covered nicely.
Puisque vous êtes un participant à part entière, vous avez accès au manuel technique et au système d'essuie-glace et son emplacement de parking est bien couvert.
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/ChassisBody/Wipers
Since you are a full member, you have access to the technical manual and the wiper system and it's parking location is covered nicely.
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: 123 distributor fail
« Last post by merrill on Today at 13:39:49 »hello
thanks for the replies.
i went out before work on a very humid morning and found that the disti had popped out of the drive gear.
this is using the 123 clamp which is thicker than the oem.
will swap back to the mb clamp and try again.
now i am wondering if there is a memory in the 123 that needs to be cleared since it did work for a few minutes.
thanks for the replies.
i went out before work on a very humid morning and found that the disti had popped out of the drive gear.
this is using the 123 clamp which is thicker than the oem.
will swap back to the mb clamp and try again.
now i am wondering if there is a memory in the 123 that needs to be cleared since it did work for a few minutes.