Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10
1
I want to put the car on a roller brake test to get reliable measurements.

The car never had a working vacuum booster as far as I can tell. It was leaking air, causing the engine to run rough when I pressed the brake pedal. So I don't really have a comparison.

Thanks everyone for the encouragement to go through with this. I probably wouldn't have done it if wasn't for the support I got here.
2
I'm extremely impressed at the speed of this. Is there any noticeable effect in stopping distances?
3
Perfect, thanks so much!
5
Excellent, great job.
6

Probably like many here, I have been working on cars for over 50 years as a hobbyist.  Back in the day, the touted issue with brake fluid was its moisture absorbancy, and the resulting moisture damage to the brake and clutch components.  Perhaps modern brake fluids are no better, and perhaps worse.

I have no idea, which is why I am asking.  Is every 2 years the right answer??
7
Is there a reason not follow original fluid service interval?  Do modern fluids always allow extended use compared to 50+ year old change intervals?
8
The brake fluid I have been using is Motul RBF600 DOT4, as polyglycol it hopefully avoids some of the noted downsides of 5.1.  Apparently not 'new' synthetic brake fluid  : ))

I would still be interested in the expected (bleed) service interval.
9
General Discussion / Re: New member introductions
« Last post by rwmastel on Today at 21:35:33 »
MBNUTZ

Welcome.  There are a lot of Ohio members.  (I was considering hosting an Ohio Pagoda get together.)  If you pay for full membership, you can access a basic member list and find members near you, and email them.

Look under the Events forum for PagidaFest 2025.
10
It's done! The booster is installed, and all wired up. I did a quick brake test in the garage and then a test drive. I can confirm the general sentiment from others who have done the swap. The brake pedal feels very responsive, there is no lag in activation by the booster. Made several safety stops and checked for leaks. I also ran it without power to the booster. The spring in the new booster is slightly stronger so it requires a little more pressure but I was able to lock the tires without any problems.

I'm planning to do a longer write-up of this process. Going with the W113 master cylinder definitely made the swap an afternoon activity (once you have all the parts). I'm so glad I didn't have to bleed the brakes for this.

I will probably redesign the adapter plate to be a little thicker (.500" instead of .375"). I couldn't detect any stress or bending during operation but it always better to be on the safe side.

Cost breakdown (without tax and shipping):
* Booster $175
* Booster Wiring Kit $40
* Adapter Plate $30
* Three Aluminum Spacers $30
* Y Fork with Clevis Pin and Bushing $15
* Wires, fuses, heat shrink

Let's call it an even $300.
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10