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Research & Development / Re: Replacing brake booster with electronic assembly
« Last post by Leester on Today at 12:07:53 »Well Done.
Recent Posts
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Gear box
« Last post by Seamus52 on Today at 11:45:56 »Is there any sources for a rebuilt 4 speed gear box for a 230 sl in U.S. or rebuild my gear box?
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Door glass removal what are these ?
« Last post by Pawel66 on Today at 11:15:30 »Originally these bushings are rubber. They need to be a bit soft. PN A 000 987 08 42, in my location 24hours availability. Ask Mercedes dealer, then there is no laborious shipping maybe.
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General Discussion / Re: big mistake... [updated: no 😇]
« Last post by yves on Today at 10:14:37 »The clutch level travel seems also fine to me....
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Door glass removal what are these ?
« Last post by NZ230 on Today at 09:46:13 »i cannot thank you enough
this clarifies well
i meant the rubber bushings but apparently they are plastic
i will improvise with 9mm OD/6mm ID hose cuts
(shipping to New Zealand is expensive and laborious)
this clarifies well
i meant the rubber bushings but apparently they are plastic
i will improvise with 9mm OD/6mm ID hose cuts
(shipping to New Zealand is expensive and laborious)
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Door glass removal what are these ?
« Last post by Pawel66 on Today at 09:30:13 »They have good drawings that should be of help: https://www.sls-hh-shop.de/en/mercedes-230-280sl-w113/72-door/72door-window
The way I did it (not sure if the best) was to fit the front and rear rails, but leave the screws lose. Fit the lifting mechanism, again, not tightened. Slide the glass with jaws from the top along the rails with plastic inserts, plastic washers and adjustment screws fitted (lose). Than adjust and tighten everything as per adjustment procedure.
The lifter rails have felt inlays where glass touches them. As my felt perished, I cut rubber inlays. There are rubber bushings going through the glass where screws go.
Plastic inserts go into jaws (plenty of them, different ones - left and right, front and rear and one for the chromed corner front top). On one side they are fit to glass with a adjustment screw, on the other they are held by plastic washer stuck on the small stud in the insert.
"Attachment screws pass through plastic spacers" you wrote - I am not sure which spacers or screws you mean. If you mean the plastic inserts and adjustment screws, no, they do not pass through plastic anywhere.
For me, the most dangerous moment was tightening (slightly!) the lifter rail to glass. Needs to be done gradually, delicately, the screws are not really tightened, it is a "light snag" fit.
The way I did it (not sure if the best) was to fit the front and rear rails, but leave the screws lose. Fit the lifting mechanism, again, not tightened. Slide the glass with jaws from the top along the rails with plastic inserts, plastic washers and adjustment screws fitted (lose). Than adjust and tighten everything as per adjustment procedure.
The lifter rails have felt inlays where glass touches them. As my felt perished, I cut rubber inlays. There are rubber bushings going through the glass where screws go.
Plastic inserts go into jaws (plenty of them, different ones - left and right, front and rear and one for the chromed corner front top). On one side they are fit to glass with a adjustment screw, on the other they are held by plastic washer stuck on the small stud in the insert.
"Attachment screws pass through plastic spacers" you wrote - I am not sure which spacers or screws you mean. If you mean the plastic inserts and adjustment screws, no, they do not pass through plastic anywhere.
For me, the most dangerous moment was tightening (slightly!) the lifter rail to glass. Needs to be done gradually, delicately, the screws are not really tightened, it is a "light snag" fit.
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Door glass removal what are these ?
« Last post by NZ230 on Today at 09:05:54 »Thanks so much for your detailed answer…
Two last questions… when reinstalling the glass is it best to preattach the rear most metal holding rail outside of the door? Or does the glass have to be attached to both metal rails whilst in the door?
Also the attachment screws pass through plastic spacers. Are there other bushings as well? I cannot see this detailed in the technical Manual.
Thanks again for your help with this!
The previous owner had many parts missing here I think
Two last questions… when reinstalling the glass is it best to preattach the rear most metal holding rail outside of the door? Or does the glass have to be attached to both metal rails whilst in the door?
Also the attachment screws pass through plastic spacers. Are there other bushings as well? I cannot see this detailed in the technical Manual.
Thanks again for your help with this!
The previous owner had many parts missing here I think
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Door glass removal what are these ?
« Last post by Pawel66 on Today at 08:55:41 »No, the glass is in the jaws. The glass does not touch rails. Glass is held by lifting mechanism at the bottom (through rubber inlays and bushings) and glued jaws that fit into rails through plastic inserts and plastic (orange) washers. Glass touches the whiskers. It needs to fit, when opened in the seal (rear) and chrome corner (front).
Maybe I miss what you call "runners". I assumed it was rails.
Plastic inserts sit in the jaws and they embrace the rail, sliding over the edge of the rail.
Jaws slide along the rail being held to the rail by plastic inserts. These inserts, together with the round plastic (orange) washers, that are top important, actually, perform two functions: dampening and adjusting the force that jaws are attached to rails. If the force is too much, the glass will not "rattle" but will not slide up and down, if the force is too small, the glass will slide, but will also rattle.
Maybe I miss what you call "runners". I assumed it was rails.
Plastic inserts sit in the jaws and they embrace the rail, sliding over the edge of the rail.
Jaws slide along the rail being held to the rail by plastic inserts. These inserts, together with the round plastic (orange) washers, that are top important, actually, perform two functions: dampening and adjusting the force that jaws are attached to rails. If the force is too much, the glass will not "rattle" but will not slide up and down, if the force is too small, the glass will slide, but will also rattle.
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Door glass removal what are these ?
« Last post by NZ230 on Today at 08:34:55 »Thanks sorry my question is even
More basic I have the guide jaws glued onto the glass but does the glass the fit onto the runners on the door
More basic I have the guide jaws glued onto the glass but does the glass the fit onto the runners on the door
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Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items / Re: Door glass removal what are these ?
« Last post by Pawel66 on Today at 07:28:15 »Here: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/ChassisBody/Windows
Illustration 7 in the (magnificent!) glass alignment procedure description.
By the way: I wish we had that in the Manual when I was adjusting my glass....
Illustration 7 in the (magnificent!) glass alignment procedure description.
By the way: I wish we had that in the Manual when I was adjusting my glass....