Recent Posts

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Will - It is my day for promotional activities for the group - I highly recommend you sign up for full membership. It will be the best $30 you will spend on your car. It gives you full access to the tech manual, two Pagoda World magazines per year, and four issues of our newsletter, Pagoda Notes.
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Rick, I would highly recommend that you sign up for full membership in the group. It will be the best $30 you will spend on your car. It gives you full access to the tech manual, two Pagoda World magazines per year, and four issues of our newsletter, Pagoda Notes.
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: under dash wiring
« Last post by Jonny B on Today at 18:05:33 »
jimpagoda - I would highly recommend you take the plunge and sign up for full membership. It will be the best $30 you will spend on your car. It gives you full access to the tech manual, two Pagoda World magazines per year, and four issues of our newsletter, Pagoda Notes.
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: under dash wiring
« Last post by 66andBlue on Today at 17:19:58 »
Hi,
Usually the ground wires for speedo and tacho are attached to the knurling nut when mounting the U-bracket. To simplify instrument installation, some people have drilled a threaded hole into the U-bracket to firmly mount the cable there.
The ground attachment at the body takes place on the left dashboard stiffener as far as I remember.
Here you can find some photos: https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=27283.msg195756#msg195756.
...WRe

To avoid trying to keep the ground wires on the threaded stem while fiddling to screw on the nut I have extended the ground wires and attached them permanently at the bottom of the threaded stem.
This also allows me to pull out the tachometer (and speedometer) and let it hang down during the removal process.
 
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Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?
« Last post by acbrock on Today at 16:27:15 »
I will get the fuse box all worked out and cleaned and then start this process.  Thanks for all the notes!
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 Anthony,

I sent you a PM.  I do have pictures which I can send you via your E-Mail.  Here is one of them here.  Also, I installed the 79 Deg. C thermostat.

Best wishes,

Don
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Thank you for the nice comment!
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What are signs of a faulty WRD?
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So…PMB did the rebuild but White Post finishing? Not sure I understand.

Regardless is this less or more costly than just replacing the calipers?

I had a problem with the left rear caliper not releasing and researching here, I concluded that the brake hose was the problem. I decided to restore all brake components since it had been 25+ years since the last caliper and master cylinder rebuild. Booster and proportioning valve had never been done. I also wanted the calipers in the original finish as mine were painted black.

I shopped around for pricing at the usual places Auto Haus AZ, K & K, Millers, MB classic, Pelican etc. I discovered that these places did not sell all 4 calipers, usually fronts or rears but not all 4 and many did not have the original finish but I assumed that they were selling all rebuilt because they all charged a core charge. Prices for the calipers depended on whether they were the fronts or rears. Prices were like $300+ to $400+ each for ATE. I then decided that i would just have mine rebuilt.

I originally wanted White Post to rebuild everything (Booster, Master cylinder, proportioning valve and calipers) because PMB only did calipers. At least that's what they told me. Others on this site have said that they do the proportioning valve too but maybe they don't do that anymore.  White Post wanted an extra $75 per caliper to have them plated with the original finish and PMB did not charge extra for that and they cost less to rebuild.  So they did my calipers and White Post is doing all the rest.

I found that it is cheaper to have your calipers rebuilt if you want the original plated finish and ATE calipers. I did not consider any other caliper other than ATEs when shopping. The booster and proportioning valve are much more expensive to purchase than a rebuild if you can find them for sale. The master valve is about the same price new as a rebuild but it was more convenient for me to just have a rebuild done with the other components.

 
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Thanks Dirk,

I see now how it works. It's not going to be fun this car has sat outside since 87 with glass broken since who knows when there is all kinds of junk on the floor and the seat will have to come out I'm going to assume some mice have taken up residence at some time. The goods news is it came out of AZ so a little dryer than usual.

Rick
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