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This component is part of Chassis and Body.


The (side-) windows (German: (Seiten-) Fenster or Türscheibe) and the Rear-window (German: Heckscheibe) are the transparent elements of the car that play a vital role in traffic safety: it is that part you look out of. The Pagoda Roof design ensured that especially for a sports car the side windows of the W113 series cars afforded excellent visibility: a major safety feature.

The HardTop of the Pagoda is specially designed to give a very large glass surface area, which limits visibility as little as possible.


Since Pagoda doors have frameless windows unlike traditional door glass frames on sedan doors, two guides, running in tracks are used to control vertical/sideways movement of the glass in the door. A third fixed guide is used at the top of the front channel. It is usually chrome plated and is visible at the front top corner of the door.

It is quite common that after thirty plus years of service, one or both of the guides glued to the two bottom corners of the door glass become detached and fall into the door cavity. This results in door glass rattling about in its channel. To fit these back, glass removal is necessary.

Some useful part numbers

 115 725 0965		Whisker strip
 001 988 9278		Clip, inner – whisker to door frame
 001 988 9378		Clip, outer – whisker to door frame
 001 988 9678		Clip, outer – outer chrome trim to door frame
 000 988 2678		Clip, fabric to top door card frame
 113 725 0934		Guide Insert, top front, left door
 113 725 1034		Guide Insert, top front, right door
 113 725 0534		Guide Insert, bottom front, left glass
 113 725 0634		Guide Insert, bottom front, right glass
 113 725 0734		Guide Insert, bottom rear, left glass
 113 725 0834		Guide Insert, bottom rear, right glass
 123720 0114		Bushing Kit, regulator arm to glass base
 001 989 4651		Lubricant, ‘glietpaste’


Common problems with windows are:

  • side-windows "bowing-out" at high speeds when rolled-up
  • window rattle
  • window misalignment, either with the Soft top, or with the Hard top, or both.

Many of the problems can be resolved using the following procedures:

Eliminate Window Rattles

This content is from the now-defunct Pagoda113 Group.

If your door-windows rattle, this procedure helps you solve this.

Difficulty: Medium
Time: 2 hours work, overnight epoxy drying time

Equipment Needed

  • Metric socket set (6-10mm)
  • All the screwdrivers you can lay hands on
  • White lithium grease for the window tracks
  • 3M Tar & Adhesive Remover
  • 10" x 10" (25x25 cm2) square of thin black felt
  • Epoxy & something disposable to mix on
  • 1 square yard of clear all-purpose weather-resistant plastic sheeting
  • Scissors
  • Sharp Knife
  • Rubber Mallet


  1. Remove the door panel. Unscrew everything in sight. Then, unscrew what you don't see: the single screw behind the inside door-opening handle and the two large screws anchoring the arm rest. Remove all trim, armrest, and the black plastic backing plate for the inside door handle (that should pop out with help from a thin flathead screwdriver).

Screw under Arm Rest (Euro Door)

  1. Verify that the guide jaw is the problem. Remove & throw away the plastic sheet that protects your door panel from rain water. It should have been glued to the inside of the door. If your car is missing the sheet, your door panel probably looks pretty awful now! Consider replacing it.
  2. Shine a flashlight & feel around the bottom of the door for a large, heavy 3"-long piece of diecast aluminum. If you find it, then you're on the right track. Continue. If you find a chunk of metal still firmly attached to the window at the front edge and another at the rear, riding in the tracks OK, you have some other problem.

Rear Glass jaw found at bottom of door cavity

  1. Remove the inside window rain-whiskers. Carefully pry the clips up & off with a sturdy flathead screwdriver. Use a thin cloth underneath it so you don't remove paint while doing this. Do not damage these clips; they're expensive to replace. It's OK to leave them attached to the whiskers -- however, now would be a great time to replace the whiskers if they're worn out like mine were. They're about $50 for a new set of 4.

Inner Clip

  1. Remove the window. Remove the small chrome window channel at the front edge.

Window Channel

  1. Raise/lower the window to access the bolts that hold it to the lifting mechanism. Carefully note how each stopper and adjuster is set. Or, if your window is already out of alignment, don't bother. You'll fix that today, too. Unscrew each bolt, saving the middle for last. Support the bottom of the glass while removing the last bolt. You should now be able to gently raise the window up, out of the door.

Lifting Mechanism to Glass Screws

  1. While having the door apart, make sure you clean/ check the drain holes on the door bottoms. Sometimes small leaves clog them, keeping water and dirt inside.
  2. Also, check/ replace the plastic sheet that covers the door assembly from the interior.
  3. Note where the guide jaws used to be. You'll need to be able to replace them exactly where they were originally installed. There should be some felt and residue from the old epoxy to give you a clue. Mark the location with a razor. Clean the window throughly. Use the razor to remove old guide jaw adhesive and felt.
  4. Clean the guide jaws. You might need a degreaser.

Guide Jaws. Top: Front bottom and top jaws. Bottom: Rear jaw.

  1. Replace the plastic clips in the guide jaws if they look worn.
  2. Cut 2 squares of thin felt to line the guide jaws. Mix up some epoxy and use it to attach the felt to the window. Allow it to dry overnight.
  3. Apply more epoxy to the felt. Push the guide jaws into place. Allow it to dry overnight.

Rear Jaw attached to glass. Note: Bottom of the guide lines up with bottom of glass

Front Jaw. Note: The channel in the jaw is contoured and must match up with the contour of the glass

Freshly attached front jaw to glass

  1. Clean the window rails and spray on new grease. This is a good time to re-lube the window crank as well.
  2. If the rattle is caused by the hardened rear jaw rubber tapping against the backside of the long angled metal channel, greasing the jaw and the channel may "soften" the rattle noticeably. However, there is a hole in the angled metal that allows access to a screw that allows the jaw to be adjusted. There are two screws on the rear jaw and one on the front. Raise the window until you are able to tighten the guide jaw screws through a hole in the window track. Tighten the screws slowly and try to move the window. Eventually tightening the screw makes it difficult to move the window. Then back off the screw until the window moved easily again. You will eliminate many rattles this way.

Front Jaw Adjustment Hole

  1. Drop the window back into place and adjust so that it doesn't gap and doesn't break when you slam the door. Check this article for the Window Adjustment Procedure.
  2. Use a rubber mallet to gently persuade the the trim back into place.

All done!

Window Adjustment Procedure

I am getting pretty close to replacing my door panels after having spent many, many hours on each door/window in an attempt to:

  1. Eliminate wind noise at high speed
  2. Eliminate "popping out" at high speed
  3. Eliminate rain leaks.

I must acknowlege Gernold's generous telephone advice during this ordeal. He often asked if I had any hair left. The process involved removing the windows, rails, and regulators and starting from scratch. The doors were very dirty and greasy internally, and needed a thorough cleaning before lining with Dynamat, being careful not to cover the drain slots along the bottom.

I used a small size MB hose cut into segments for the holes in the glass, and new rubber gasket from the hardware store cut into strips for the lifter attachment sandwich bracket. I found this rubber gasket material to be perfect because it not only cushions the metal against the glass, but is smooth and somewhat "slippery" so that it allows the window to be easily tilted in the sandwhich when adjustments are made.

I replaced bolts and nuts with SS.

I bought 2 new tinted windows from MB to replace my old untinted and badly scratched windows. These windows come wth the original slotted blocks glued to the glass. I also surrounded the block/glass interface with silicon caulk in the hopes of keeping out any moisture that may eventually lead to the well-known loosening of these blocks.

Every step was done with extreme caution to avoid placing stress on the glass. While I couldn't avoid stressing the glass to some extent during the process, I did not end up breaking the glass. The door striker needs to be removed to be able to test gentle closing during adjustments.

I put in the window regulator and lifting mechanism before the glass, but I think they could go in after as well. I did not connect the regulator winding mechanism to the lifting mechaism at this point. None of the bolts were tightened yet. I put a piece of foam at the bottom of the door for "pyschological" security.

The rails go in first (along with the rainguards), but only after they had been thoroughly cleaned, including the use of emory paper to remove any irregularities along the sliding surfaces. But before putting in the rails, I found it very important (having learned from the side I did first), to make sure there were no burrs or thick paint that would interfere with the rails lying as far laterally as possible at their tops. On one door this required using a file. (There was a burr present created by the top front trim screw that holds the rubber door seal.) One can always shim the rails if needed, but if the rails are not far apart enough at their tops, the glass will be overly squeezed as it is rolled up. Neither the upper nor lower rail bolts/nuts are tightened yet.

I removed the "anti-rattle" screws from the guides before lowering the windows, and used a screwdriver to gently pry open the plastic guides to allow them to engage the rails more easily. (There are small orange o-rings in these guides that should be present.) The window was then carefully lowered into the rails. (Those short "anti-rattle" screws were not placed until near the very end of the whole process, and I needed a Dremel to slightly enlarge the holes in the rain guards to give me a shot at the threads. Ultimately, I have not had to tighten these screws since the new plastic inserts seem to provide enough inherent anti-rattle pressure.) The curve of the window should provisionally determine the in/out position of the lower fixation of the rails at this point, but if either guide is disengaging from the rails with the window down, the lower fixation points for the rails can be provisionally tightened. With the window fully lowered, the top edge of the window should be centered in the door as seen from directly above, and this is a function of the lower rail bolt/nuts. This centering can only be accurately assessed if the whiskers are not yet installed. I found out that if the windows are centered when they are all the way down early on in the procedure, then only minimal adjustments are needed to acheive the proper leaning-in angle with the window rolled all the way up at the end of the procedure.

The top front chrome guide was not yet placed.

The stop bracket

I then supported the window in a semi-raised position with blocks of wood inside the door to allow attachment of the rubber/metal sandwich strips that hold the bottom of the window. I changed the original hex head bolts for phillips heads to give me more feel with a screwdriver of how tight I was squeezing the glass when I eventually tightened these. The most aft hole takes a slightly longer screw because it serves to also hold a bracket that can serve to limit both upward and lower travel. However, I am convinced that it should only be the stop bolt on the regulator that serves the function of upward limitation. The bracket on the window should not be used to create the upward limit, and on both windows I needed to slide the brackets all the way down to prevent them from interfering with the upward limit of the windows.

I then attached the lifting mechanism to the window, but again did not yet link it up to the winding mechanism.

At this point, the glass should be able to be easily lifted and lowered by hand, (as long as you keep the bottom edge perfectly horizontal) although it may get tight as it reaches the top.

It was only after I had assured myself that I could raise and lower the window relatively easily by hand that I connected it to the winder. Once connected to the winder, I was able to make some preliminary adjustments to keep the window rolling up and down smoothly. The most important thing to look for at this point is how tight the front edge of the window is against the front top chrome guide. This involved removing and inserting this piece many times and rolling the window up and down and observing how tight a fit at the chrome guide at various window heights. Factors affecting how tight this guide becomes are:

  1. how much shimming is needed on the top of the back rail, and
  2. the front/back tilting of the window in the sandwich bracket and/or lifter mechanism,
  3. the fore/aft position of the bolts holding the bottoms of the rails.

However, at this point it is only necessary to make sure that the chrome guide is not too tight at all window heights, as well as having an understanding of which adjustments would affect this tightness. I would also mention that the bolts holding the tops of both fore and aft rails will come to sit at the outer edge of their oblong holes. It is also important to recheck that the top edge of the window is centered as viewed from the above with the window all the way down and the front chrome guide removed, and make adjustments to the lower rail bolt/nuts as needed.

Next comes the adjustment process that took me many hours, and eventually even required slight door hinge adjustments on the passenger side to get it right. (The passenger window was leaning in too much when all the way up, and I had max'd out the adjustment for this at the bottom of the rails. So, I had to "roll" the top of the door out. It was amazing how only about 2mm of this door hinge adjustment translated into complete correction of the problem.) Obviously, the goal is to get good seals at the front, back, and top of the window with the window rolled up all the way to the hard stop created by the bolt on the regulator. An absolute necessity is the very liberal, and repeated application of silicon grease/paste (not spray) to all of the seals. This cannot be overemphasized. (Silicon smudges on the glass can be removed with PPG's DX330.) The door is closed gently and the window position is observed. I made the following adjustments, over and over again:

Picture of trimmed whisker.
  1. If the back edge of the window does not clear the back seal:
    1. the top aft rail bolt may need shimming. This may require use of a longer bolt as long as it does not protrude into the rail. (However, this shimming may over-tighten the window in the front chrome guide at certain window heights. This over-tightening at the front guide may then require a fore-aft tilting adjustment of the window. The fore-aft tilting adjustment is accomplished primarily in the metal/rubber holding sandwich, but also by tilting the lifting mechanism itself in its slotted bolt holes.)
    2. a fore/aft tilting adjustment can also be made as noted above to allow the back edge of the window to clear the seal.
  2. The front top edge of the window needs to sit squarely in the middle of the groove of the front seal at all window heights. It should not push on the inner edge of the seal nor stand too far away from it. This adjustment is made at the bottom of the front rail.
  3. If the window doesn't roll up all the way:
    1. something blocking? Check the sliding bracket at the most aft hole on the rubber/metal sandwich, also check that the guide block is not hitting the bottom edge of the whisker. This bottom edge should be removed.
    2. rails too tight? Related to front chrome guide and/or top aft shims; also could be the bottom of the rails are too far in or out.
    3. front chrome guide too tight? Again, related to fore/aft tilting of the window and/or rear rail shimming.

Once a) b) & c) are found to be ok, the final height should be able to be adjusted by the height limit bolt on the regulator. However, as the window is brought closer to the top seal, the lean of the window, as controlled by both fore and aft bottom rail bolts/nuts, needs to be adjusted so that window leans in just a bit. The amount of this leaning only needs to be just enough so that the top edge of the window contacts the inner edge of the seal and is pushed up into the seal at the very last few degrees of closing the door.

Slotted bolt holes in lifter used to achieve more height

Additional height can be gained, if needed, by

  1. moving the slots for the 2 bolts holding the lifting mechanism to the rubber/metal sandwich braket further aft, and
  2. by rotating the regulator (winding mechanism) a bit in its bolt slots.

I think that because I observed the following points along the way, I was able to avoid breaking the windows:

  1. Never force anything. If the window does not want to move or feels too tight, look for something to correct. In some instances, blockage was caused by a proud bolt that I had not yet tightened enough hitting against a moving part.
  2. Always remove the front chrome guide when making any adjustments. I think that this little piece, if too tight, will cause a window to break. So, anytime that I made an adjustment, I would check how much space then remained available for this guide at all window heights. I must admit that I used a Dremel a bit around the seating spot for this guide, just to get a few microns of reassurance.

According to Gernold, it is typical that the very lowest inch or two of the back seal is pulled slightly away from its mounting by a well sealed window.

Rear seal.

I found this to be the case on both my windows. He also said that it is typical that a well sealed window that gets rolled down and then up again with the door closed (say, when you pay a toll), will not seal as perfectly. In other words, a good seal is only possible if the window is rolled all the way up with the door open, and then the door is closed. I also found this to be the case. However, I have found this to be a function of how much friction exists between the front edge of the window and the front seal. With generous, repeated applications of silicon grease to the very absorbant front seal, I have been able to fix this problem. That is, as long as the front seal stays well-lubed.

No nuts or bolts got well-tightened until I was sure that I had finally acheived what I was after. That happened many times.

I did not have to glue the chrome guide. Instead I was able to secure it by using a longer allen head set screw that protruded a bit through the access slot and thus prevented it from migrating upwards, as well as wedging a thin rubber shim at one edge to prevent rattling.

Chrome guide.

The strikers were replaced dead on using the tape/grease dab trick credited to Al Lieffering.

I used MB sunroof grease to very lightly grease only the inner rails of the channels where the plastic guides travel, and lithium grease for the regulator. I did not grease anything else.

I utilized the tiny hole at the top of the rear channels (that had always been unused on my car) to tap and place a small trim screw to hold the seal.


I have not replaced my door panels yet since I'm waiting for a good rain to test for leaks. But so far, I have no rattles and no air leaks at 80mph, and I'm hopeful. The solid sound made when the doors are closed with the windows rolled up is now unmistakable. I would wager that someone with a good ear would be able to say whether or not a window was sealing properly based entirely upon the sound made upon closing. Much, much better than the sound of breaking glass that I feared during the entire time I was doing this project.

For now, the car always sleeps with the windows rolled all the way up with a generous amount of silicon on the seals. I think it needs to become comfortable with this position.

Old Yahoo content

The following is the content from the old Yahoo documents on the site. It needs to be structured and edited in the correct sections of the entire document. After moving particular content to its correct place in the manual, please delete it here.

This is all from memory since I did this over a year ago. A previous owner of my '70 280 SL had put felt lining on the window channel either after the metal slides fell off of the glass or were removed. The felt actually didn't work too bad but it wasn’t right and the glass was a little loose. So I ordered the two metal slides from Mercedes along with inexpensive plastic (teflon I think) friction inserts.

I started by taking off some of the chrome around the aft end of the door and then removing the door panel fixtures. The door panel lifts up and aft. Then my memory gets kind of fuzzy. Along the bottom of the glass should be 2 pieces of metal which sandwich the glass and I think have 4 bolts through them. This is where the glass attaches to the crank mechanism.

Undo the bolts and pull the sandwich apart. Now the glass should be loose. You should be able to pull the glass up through the top of the door. It might take a little manipulating. You might have to loosen up the channels also. Around the channels are sheet aluminum guards that should slide out after loosening the bolts. If the glass doesn't want to come out pry the horizontal fuzz strips off the door tops.

You will probably want to replace them anyway, along with them you should probably get new clips for the strips. With those off it should come out pretty easily. I cleaned the glass and where the slides attach I roughed up the glass with a file. This allows the MarineTex I used to bond the metal to the glass a better grip.

I bonded the slides making sure that the slides weren't too high, if they are it will not allow you to close the glass all the way. I don't think it is that hard to get it right just keep it at the bottom corner. After the MarineTex hardens put the teflon friction pieces into the slides. The friction pieces will, along with the pinching screws, hold the glass tight on the channels. Clean the channels - they are usually pretty corroded and gunked up.

I then put some lithium grease along the channel to make the glass slide easier. There is also a teflon piece at the top of the forward channel that can be replaced. Slide the glass down the channels and reattach the bottom metal sandwich. Now you have to reposition the glass channels so that the glass lines up with the windshield pillar and the convertible top. Obviously the channel has to be positioned to keep the glass from slipping off as it goes up and down also.

You might have to readjust the bottom and top limit bolts which are located on the bottom metal sandwich. Next tighten up the pinching screws on the slides to squeeze the teflon friction inserts against the channel. Keep moving the glass up and own to make sure you do not tighten them too much. Put the aluminum guards back in and knock in the new fuzz strip.

Before you put the panel back on, grease or oil all moving surfaces and contact cement a plastic vapor shield on to protect the door panel itself, otherwise it might warp if it gets moist. I think that is about it, I might have forgotten a few steps but all in all it is not that hard. When I did my doors I took them completely apart and painted the inside of the doors. So it was a little different.

I have thoroughly degreased and cleaned the window lifter assemblies and their guide rails. Does anyone know if these should be lubricated (white lithium grease or silicon lubricant)?. Or can the guides function without lubricant seeing as the contact surfaces are all metal/ plastic interfaces? I'm thinking that lubricant can harden over time and attract dirt and therefore I would only use it if necessary.

My 1969 280 SL has windows that are quite difficult to roll-up. There is a lot of tension on the handle, sometimes more pronounced, as the window rolls up. At times, I feel like I am forcing the handle to crank the window. Now, the passenger window no longer rolls all the way to the top.

I would like to take off the door panelling and try to fix the problem. Though I am pretty sure the system is not very complicated, I would appreciate it if anyone with past experience has any tips on fixing this. As this was a problem in my father's SL, I am sure others have experienced this too. Again, my goals are to get the handles to roll the windows up and down, free of tension, and to get the passenger window all the way to the top.

Will: Dig right in and fix the windows. It is easy. To remove the door panel, remove the obvious trim and screws. At the very last the panel lifts up so the trim by the glass will come off the clips. For final removal you just need fingers. No tools for prying. If this is too vague, guide my responses with questions. Once inside you will look at the front and rear tracks the window slides in. At the base of the glass on the front and rear there are aluminum guides. They need to be glued back into place.

I ususally use silicon. They have come off or are jammed in the guide. Take the guides out, clean them, clean the tracks, lube the scissors mechanism, reassemble. Should take about 1-2 hours per door at a relaxed pace. If you need more info or clarification, just ask. It has been about a year since I was inside a door, who has been in one more recently and can give more detailed help?

Tom Collitt: You also may have to adjust the window mechanism, in particular the actual scissor- mechanism held by 5 screws. It binds if the window is not lifted up straight. Also, is the consensus that all the actual plastic guides and sliders on the window and lifter mechanism do not need lubrication?

I don't know what the consensus is about lubricating the plastic inserts on the window but I put a little lithium grease on mine. I haven't had a problem with it in 2 years. I put a new vapor shield on the door when I put it back together so hopefully that will keep out any dust.

Will: I am 100% in agreement with you.

I successfully got my window and guides out of the passenger door. I have ordered new parts and some have arrived. To help prevent this problem again (the window coming out of the guide), should I somehow treat either of the mating surfaces of the window or the plastic clamp (jaw?) in the guide?

Also, to prevent drag on the guide, I would like to remove and clean the two vertical guide tracks. Can this be done without having to make or correct adjustments to the alignment of the window? Before removal, the leading edge of the window tracked flushly up against the rubber on the A-pillar. I would hate to ruin that.

Pete Lesler: once you remove the slides in the front and rear of the door, unless you very carefully mark the position of the nuts and locking nuts on the adjusting bolts, you may lose the alignment of the window with respect to the surrounding seals. However you should be able to clean these rails while still in the door, by using fine steel wool and a solvent.

I would carefully lubricate them with a light lubricant that will not hold dirt and dust particles. Re-adjusting the slides can take an hour or so, and the removal of them can alter the rake and the inward or outward aspect of the window glass. I have wrestled many times with the window adjustments on these cars. All through trial and error as I have never found a manual that clearly explains all of the adjustments. There are numerous other ways to effect adjustments besides the adjustment of the slide rails.

Try to leave the regulator in place and notice that even the window glass can be slid up or down on slots on the lower mounting rails. Resist the temptation to fool with that and make certain that the stops are returned to their original postions. If you have patience and a good touch with adjustments, you should be able to get a near perfect fit.

It is time for me to replace my windshield. Any tips or advice? I plan to use a new seal although my 280 SL doesn't go out in the rain. From the manual it sounds like a pretty easy job. I'm not sure about a tinted vs. non-tinted (across the top) version? Mine is now tinted but I'm not sure I wouldn't rather have no tint. Any advice about using real 'German' glass vs some aftermarket brand (if available).

I think only tinted was original at least on 280 SL US models. They are available from PPG. I think the part number is 171 and they fit well.

It's really not that hard. I did have a hard time until I figured out how to do it right. I thought soapy water would help me get the gasket to slide onto the glass but all it did was make it slippery and make it slide off just as you got it around the glass. Put it out in the sun for a few hours to soften it.

Make sure you center the glass and use string to pull open the slots. I had to pop it out a couple of times to get it centered correctly. I did it alone. I did not use any sealant because it made a mess everywhere. It does leak a little but like you I don't drive it in the rain. I used aftermarket glass. The only difference I saw was that it was not as thick but it works fine.

When I shut the doors I here a rattle in them. I have opened both doors and the sound seems to be the glass guides having a little slop where they slide on the track. When the passanger window is firmly cranked down it stops but the driver side still is loose. Looking with a mirror I see no sign of any lube so I wonder if it was designed to be an unlubricated part? If I remove the guides from the glass would I find a worn plastic insert that replaces the lubricant?

Probably, your plastic guide inserts have disintegrated within the aluminum jaws. There is also a rubber cushioning ring and a set screw for adjustment that provides the fine tuning for a snug glass to steel guide rail fit. A good cleaning helps too, of course.

I had the same symptoms. My window guides had come unglued from the window. These guides (small pieces of metal and plastic) were rattling around the bottom of the door. The window should roll up and down ok, but the bottom of the window is not firmly anchored, and it will be at risk of breaking in the up position. I think there was a post that I saw on glueing the guides back on to the window - I tried it myself, and gave up when I realized you have to remove the window to do it. Cost me about $200 (Canadian) to have it done.

I have a ‘69 280 SL in which the windows rattled when I shut the door. I removed the door panel and plastic (visqueen) cover on the passenger window side and discovered that the front lower "claw" was not attached to the glass. Can this be re-attached to the glass and placed in the front vertical window channel without removing the vertical channel? If not is the only bolt holding the vertical front channel the alignment bolt near the bottom of the channel? Is there a source for new plastic (visqueen) covers beneath the door panels?

It appears to me the lower front window jaw is glued to the glass - can someone tell me if this correct. I have a new plastic insert in the jaw and a new washer behind the insert. It appears the plastic grove rides on the verticle glide and is adjusted through a hole in the vertical glide? Thanks for any help. If the jaw is glued on what type of glue is used. Any tips.

I put a spacer (piece of rubber) in the jaw slot with the window glass and used epoxy to get it all together. Originally the spacer was some type of felt, but I could not duplicate the thickness with my felt. The plastic insert does move along the vertical guide.

When I put my jaw back on to the glass I used an epoxy product called Marinetex. I also roughed up the glass where the epoxy meets the glass. It is not all that hard to do just make sure the jaws are lined up close to the correct position.

When replacing my window guide, I had to remove the window from the door, which meant removing it from the two-piece horizontal track that sandwiches the bottom of the glass. There are four bolts that hold these two pieces together and there are rubber strips that not only seperate the metal tracks from the window sides, but also have little rubber molded extensions that surround the bolts as they pass through the holes in the glass.

When separating my track, the rubber extensions tore off. I bought four bushings as you describe to slide in the holes in the window glass and then slide the bolts through. I did this because I could not purchase only the rubber for the track pieces. Perhaps a previous owner had these installed and when you did your window removal they fell out.

Here is a word of caution about the pagode windows. Someone I know did some work on his driver’s side window. I believe his was loose and he fixed and tightened it back to its position. About a day or so later, his window suddenly exploded into thousands of pieces while the car was parked. He apparently got the fright of his life as he was in the vicinity.

I think he put some unwanted stress onto the glass by tightening it too much or maybe not in a completely straight line. That was an expensive exercise and I would recommend caution to all other people out there who adjust and repair their windows.

I also had the misfortune of the exploding window. I replaced all the rubbers for the windows on my first 1968 280 SL and when I parked and my dad closed the door, the glass shattered. I have no idea as to what happened, but suspect one of the jaw guides was not aligned correctly and tilted the glass inwards too far thus when the door was closed the glass jammed against the lower portion of the rubber on the hardtop it created too much pressure and broke the glass.
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