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1
ok,
so got it to work.

thinking about the disti popping out of the gear i ended up rotating the rotor 180 degrees until i felt the disti lock in.

re did everything per the instructions and it started on the first try.

i have the timing set at 6 -7 btdc and at high rpm its about 37

now to drive it and enjoy.
2
It is unfortunately possible to fit the 123 distributor 180 degrees out.The drive lug is only very slightly offset so it is relatively easy to fit the 123 180 Deg out.

Paul
3
Fantastic! Thank you very much!
4
Why the harsh/rude response?
The OP asks a perfectly legitimate question.
Mechatronix are indeed well known for this type of work but that doesn't mean no-one else is capable.
5
well,
ran home at lunch to mess with this.

after aligning the crank to "0" and the cam notch it seemed the rotor was 180 off.

ok, so rotated rotor, went to crank the car and the disti popped up out of gear.

decided to take a break and walk away for a while. but it i cant get it working i may just return the 123 and go back to setting points.
6
“Bead blasting” with walnut shell media. You may need a blast hood.

Back in 1979, there was a problem on my BMW 320i and the factory authorized repair was such a cleaning, done at and by the dealer.
7
Photo Gallery / Re: Sunny Sunday
« Last post by RAY on Today at 17:54:49 »
 Looking great in the sunshine, better weather than the the Ace Café trip  :)
8
I had pulled my intake manifold in the process of reworking the entire exhaust system (i'm getting Timevalve setup next week!)  and I noticed quite a lot of carbon built up throughout the manifold.   Mostly very thick black oily build up around the cold start valve area but down by the cylinders it was also quite thick and looked like charcoal, just what you would find on a chimney wall or an oven that hasn't been cleaned in 50years.  See the before and after cleaning pictures below and note the size of the mound of carbon I pulled out, and that's not even half of it. 

I estimate it was about 1mm thick everywhere and very rough, which must reduce available airflow volume.     I'm sure the fuel injection pump is optimally adjusted assuming a clean intake, so effectively this sort of airflow impedance must also cause a rich bias to the mixture which further reduces power and efficiency (milage) .   

The openings into the head are slightly oval (39mm x 35mm) so if you assume an average of 37mm and reduce that to 35mm when dirty, surprisingly it works out to over 10% reduction in cross-sectional area, at least for my case.  I'm sure air velocity increases, but so does turbulence with the dirty rough walls, so there's probably no way to know the true full impact without some careful experiments that I would love to do if it didnt add to my downtime.

In any case, the bottom line is that a clean manifold should run more efficiently than a dirty one and allow for up to 10% more air intake and power output, especially when your foot is planted on the floor as mine is not so infrequently.   I dont know that I would pull it just to clean it, but if you have other reasons to remove it, then I would highly recommend allowing time to properly clean your intake.    Please comment if you have ideas other than elbow grease to get it clean.   I've scraped it out pretty well and plan to soak the whole thing in a special aluminum friendly carbon cleaner next.
9
General Discussion / Re: Concours/Resto Mod Restoration Shop
« Last post by zoegrlh on Today at 17:19:52 »
Good answer Mike, if he has that much money sent it off to shop that knows what they are doing.
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General Discussion / Re: Concours/Resto Mod Restoration Shop
« Last post by mdsalemi on Today at 16:46:23 »
I thought the April fools jokes were long past.

If you have a client so situated, then they have basically endless amounts of money. Since there’s no substitute for experience, why don’t they just buy a Mechatronic or send the car over there?
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