Recent Posts

1

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by acbrock on Today at 20:26:44 »

oof.  Ok I guess I will read how to get the ignition out.  Seems like it the whole dash is coming out again

Initial tests today.  When I supply power to the fuse 2 Wires.  I get the lighter again but don't see any power in the switch, was hoping to find the Horn Cable.  Then switched to the other set of wires...

Relay I get power but not on 56 but 56B?
And still no power to the wiper Motor on Pin4.  So I am going to start unwrapping some things...

2

General Discussion / Re: Where can I get a vintage style battery for my 1970 280sl?

« Last post by Ueenande on Today at 20:04:17 »

I've found vintage-style batteries for classic cars at specialty auto parts stores or online shops that cater to classic car enthusiasts. You might also try reaching out to Mercedes-Benz restoration specialists or forums dedicated to vintage car restoration for recommendations.

3

Electrical and Instruments / Tach Works but Whines!

« Last post by jtmaynard on Today at 19:31:35 »

My tach started making a whining noise when the engine is running, which increases in pitch along with the RPMs. Other than that, the gauge works. I assume it's a broken cable, and if so, I'm dreading the fix! Or does the tach itself need replacement?

4

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Injectors

« Last post by russelljones48 on Today at 19:29:31 »

Mike,

Here's my thought process.  They are a different part number, for a different sized and tuned engine (although the 250 head will fit the 230) and therefore probably slightly different injectors.  So our decision was to go with 6 of the same injectors - not to "mix" early and late since the assumption is that the early and late injectors won't behave exactly the same.  Since they are also designed to feed a later, and larger engine we also surmise that they might offer more performance for the smaller 230..  But we don't really know their delivery characterisitcs until we test and tune..  I did read the post you mention and that set was returned, deemed defective, and replaced with the same part number satisfactorily..  BUT as I said above they'll be tested before installation and potentially tuned afterwards.  Lastly was the $$$$  - early are running about $200 - 250 and the late are $100.  6 late are $600 and 5 early would be over $1000..  the next owner may thank me for the later and more available parts   

5

General Discussion / Re: Door bolts

« Last post by john.mancini on Today at 18:52:11 »

I do believe that they left the factory painted body color.

6

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by BobH on Today at 18:21:47 »

...So when I connect the battery Fuse one goes Hot.    The are 2 Bunches of wires to on the Front and 1 on the back.  So I disconnected the battery and removed all wires from Fuse 2.  The front 2 of the fuse had 2 sets of wires attached.Set 1 had 2 Wires, set 2 had 3 Wires.  My guess was the 2 Wires were Horn and Cigarette Lighter.  The other set of 3 was Washer Relay/Motor and Pump.  I grabbed my power inverter and connected the set with 2 Wires.  Lighter light up.  I dont have horns so could not test the horn.  When I put power to the other 3, I got power reading out of the Washer Relay but not the Motor or the Pump.  My hope was sending power thru these wires I should have gotten 12v on one of the pins on the connector but I did not.

I did the same thing with Fuse 1.  Things worked that should with power, like the Entrance light, map light , clock...
But no power to any pin in the Connector?

Also shouldn't Fuse 2 go Hot when I turn the ignition to the 2nd Position?  It did not?  ...

https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/Fuses

Fuse 1 powered at all times
Fuses 2 to 6 are linked together, all get power when the ignition switch is turned to position 1

So you'll need to investigate why fuse 2 is not getting power, i think you said you'd never removed the ignition switch, perhaps time to bite the bullet!

7

Electrical and Instruments / Re: Turn Signal Relay Buzzing?

« Last post by acbrock on Today at 17:51:27 »

Interesting.  Yes I think that wire that is folded back is the color you mentioned.  I am going to go return these multimeters and get a new one and different brand today.   I will do a few tests that I have been able to confirm and then I am going to peel back some of the wrap at the appliances and at the switch.  Hopefully at the appliances the colors will be correct and then I can peel back the wrap on the connector and hopefully get to where these wires were spliced in.... or find that these new blue colors go all the way which would help too.

Today is the day!!!

8

General Discussion / Re: Door bolts

« Last post by zoegrlh on Today at 17:40:16 »

I replaced mine with stainless steel German manufactured bolts.

9

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Injectors

« Last post by dirkbalter on Today at 17:22:11 »

I am sort of curious about the cleaning process (I have a bunch of injectors acquired over the years) so I looked at the link posted for mercedes source. The list of applicable cars does not include the 113s.

Is there an adaptor to use for these (the 113 units)? Or is it just not mentioned, and it does work with those? And I am assuming the 111 -112 etc.

https://mercedessource.com/store/bosch-mechanical-fuel-injector-mfi-tester-and-cleaning-kit

Jon, I have one of these test kits. It's more for testing rather than cleaning. For me an ultrasonic bath together with soaking and scraping... worked on some of the injectors.
You can use it if you want to get into it.

10

Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Injectors

« Last post by mdsalemi on Today at 17:20:02 »

JonnyB, Jim Villers had his setup at the Charlottesville PUB in 2017. He cleaned and tested many injectors, and I remember helping at least one member removed them from his car and replace them. It looked pretty identical to the one shown from Mercedessource, basically some connectors, hardware, a supply of cleaning fluid, and a gauge/pressure pump.

I don't have any to check but if YOU do it might be worthwhile to build one.

The cleaning process basically puts a little to a lot more pressure on the injector than it gets from the FI pump. This can "free up" any stuck parts, but not 100% of the time. I remember watching as we pumped and finally a stuck injector "popped" and began to spray. Then continued spraying and pumping allowed the fluid to clean the injectors.

This is a great PUB topic and I think we'll do it again for 2025 if we have a PUB tech session...