Recent Posts

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Wanted To Buy / Re: source for M5 thread chasers
« Last post by mdsalemi on Today at 14:34:44 »
If you really, honestly and truly, have a non-standard thread size or one so obscure that you cannot find an off the shelf die or tap, you can always go custom: https://www.tapcotaps.com. I'm sure there are plenty more around the country or world.

Back in the mid 1970s when working on an Austin America (Austin 1200 to those across the world) we ran into such a threaded hole; I cannot be sure but it may have been on a flywheel or something. My father, then working in a research lab like Bell Labs, brought the part into the machine shop at work. Run by a German and so neat and clean, you could eat off the floor. Guenther measured the undamaged threads, decided they don't have a tap for that size...and made one for my father. We used it to chase the threads with a little bit of cutting oil. During the same era, he also made a clutch alignment tool for my Datsun 510. The local Datsun dealer was nice enough to let me look at it but wouldn't let it out of the shop. Armed with a caliper and graph paper, I drew the tool and Guenther made it for us. Sometimes that's what you have to do.
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Wanted To Buy / Re: Looking for manual transmission for 1965 230sl
« Last post by mdsalemi on Today at 14:26:10 »
I don't know what the cost of shipping internationally is, probably a few hundred dollars plus, but Colin has a good reputation here (and in UK of course) so factor it all in if you cannot find what you want in the USA, which by the way, will also cost a bit no matter what the origin/destination is.

An alternative is fitting a new 5-speed. Our member here, AlexD, just had this done with great success when his car was in for crash repair. The firm he used sells the Tremec and the kit to install it. A few hiccups along with way but nothing that wasn't solved quickly.
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Thanks, just taken the head and inlet manifold to the machine shop for pressure testing. Fingers crossed.
Can anyone tell me the torque setting for the smaller head bolts at the front (2 external and 2 in chain aperture)?
Thanks
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Just to update you all, I spoke to Mike at Metric via email. Very helpful.

Ordered the part number he suggested and it fits.

One thing interesting to note is the part number he suggested (Elring 046.451) is exactly the same part that I already had.

It was like the whole gasket was cut too far forward as it was definitely overlapping the pistons on the trailing edge.

Anyway, head is on, all good.

Thanks Doug
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I have a rebuilt one but I'm in the UK.
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W11x chassis cars / Re: 1961 220Sb stalls when choke is pushed in.
« Last post by ja17 on Today at 05:46:51 »
Good job Brad,
Find some ethanol-free gasoline to put in it before you store it for the winter this fall to prevent more problems. You can go back to running your ethanol gas the rest of the time.

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No need to open a 'bleed nipple', the bleeding is done as per Benz Dr Dan's instructions. But, you appear to have a leaking steering box. First time I can remember in the past 22 years on this forum! You may want to call around to a couple of the parts suppliers for a rebuild kit, I reckon they don't get this request very often.
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Hi guys, I’m in the process of changing my front rotors so I decided to clean the hubs and grease
On one side, I have a retainer for the bearing behind the seal and none on the other side. I reassembled the one that doesn’t have it, and I only realized when I cleaned the other side that it was missing .
Is this part important ? I would think not since it’s all squeezed in ??its called a puller ring
Pn 1113340064
Number 38
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Arggg.  Well I could not get the damn bleed nipple to turn.  But while turning the wheels and watching all the bubbles come out I realize the bleeding would not matter.  I am leaking from the spot in the picture.  I will dive in to what this is and see if it is something I can replace or need to take in.  I hope I can do it.  I am guess it it is A,B and C in that drawing in the tech manual.  Anyone know that gasket I am going to need to get?
Oof reading more if that is it then I dont think I can do it unless I get a torque gauge...
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Power Steering Leak
« Last post by Benz Dr. on June 02, 2024, 22:24:28 »
Raise the front of your car until the wheels are off the ground.  Turn your steering wheel back and forth and keep adding ATF as the fluid goes down in the canister. Do NOT run your engine or the fluid will foam up.

Once you quit seeing air bubbles in the fluid, turn your steering wheel full lock in both directions which should produce a few more bubble. Fill to the line on your canister housing only when you're sure all of the air has been purged out. This method is, by far, the best way to do this.
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