Gahh soft top installation instructions

[Pinder]

Hi

I am about to install the new Soft top I have gotten from GAHH.  I have been trying to find install tips or instructions.

I think I know that I have to start from the back then the front and sides. My question is type of glue to use ( I assume contact cement) and if the top should be glued down from the front and the back on the bottom lip only where the trim strips screw down or should i run the glue on the upped part of the back bow and front top edge? Reason I ask is I dont see why it would need to be glued on the front top edge and back bow wide strip.  Iwould think this could cause problems with it being correctly streched.

[Lorsar]

I just replaced mine using the instructions in the tech manual.  You start in the middle then do the front, then the back.

[Pinder]

Thank you

[doitwright]

https://youtu.be/6Cf-eWmC9h4

[Jordan]

Great video.  I didn't realize you could do it while the frame was still on the car.  Gives me a lot more confidence to do it myself.

[Pinder]

I’m doing it with the frame in also and I think it’s probably a good way to get it to fit right. My only doubt is if I should put glue on the top part of the front frame or on just the lip where the metal strip goes . Same question on the back part. Should glue only go on the metal strips that hold it down at the back or also on the wider top section?

[Pinder]

So I seen the video and read the instructions in the tech manual but it seems like I should apply glue only to the front bottom abs rear bottom where the metal strips will hold it down. When I removed my old top which was I think re done and not original some had also applied some glue to the top edge on the fron and to the top edge of the thick back bow . I think that does not seem necessary. How should I proceed? I am clear on how to do the sides and other details .  I have the top frame all cleaned up and new top sitting on top ready to glue down. The Gahh top I order looks to be very nice quality and should fit nicel.

[Merc_Girl]

https://youtu.be/6Cf-eWmC9h4

Wish I could work that fast!!🤣🤣

No mention of the tensioning cables?

[Pinder]

Ive finished the install and will post pictures of how it looks today. It took a lot of time to do and is the first time I have installed a soft top.

[Pinder]

Picture of top

[Pinder]

Rear view pic

[Pinder]

Here is the underside with new screws used and cleaned up the metal strips plus new rubber seal and held down with screws and cup washer.

[BobH]

Are you sure this is the first time you've fitted a hood?  looks perfect to me, well done!

[Pinder]

It is the first time. the helpful links everyone posted helped.  Some things to note.

1. top must be positions exactly on center so both sides are evenly streatched.
2. I did the front first then the back bow, followed by sides then middle bars works from the front one back. I did the middle bars a few days after i had it locked down to stretch.
3. I was not able to close the top as it was tight so because I had not glued the bows down the last bow i was able to fold it down then lock the front and back then push it back up into position.

I think it came out way better than whoever replaced it before which was a really messy job with gllue all over the metal parts.
4. I got new screws from home depot for the back bow #6 3/8th length.

[Pinder]

Something to be very careful about is that the soft top window is very easy to scratch. I wiped it with a new micro fiber cloth and it caused a slight scratch. I guess you have to use a completely wet cloth. these windows are high maintenance.

[GM]

Get a piece of a pool noodle the length of the window, and cover it with fleece fabric.
When you fold the top down, enclose it with the noodle on the middle of the window - prevents the window from rubbing on itself and the edges

[Pinder]

Ill try that. I have a bunch of pool noodles and some felt material.

[AndrewB]

Beautiful job - well done

[Pinder]

I can say that the Gahh replacement top that was approx $700 is very good quality. It comes with the soft rubber gaskets that seal the top sides by the windows. its a soft grey rubber that has to be glued onto the sides of the top. As I mentioned I have never done a top before but it is well in the means of anyone with a few DIY skills. take your time in cleanings the frame up to make it pretty.  I had great results with the Weldwood contact cement that is the non drip gel type. A few times I had to undo the sides to re stretch or re position and with this glue that was possible.  Take your time on the bows on the inside and dont get the glue everywhere. I did not need to trim any cloth while attaching to the bows. you should be able to glue them down with no seem showing, hiding it close to the join of the flaps and soft top, above each bow as it meets the top.

[Jordan]

Get a piece of a pool noodle the length of the window, and cover it with fleece fabric.
When you fold the top down, enclose it with the noodle on the middle of the window - prevents the window from rubbing on itself and the edges

Great minds think alike.  That is exactly what I have been using since I got my car.  I use the larger diameter pool noodle (about 6" in diameter I think).  The pool noodle also prevents the window from folding on itself.

[Cees Klumper]

Great job! As to the window, Maguiar's makes a few plastic polish/buffing products that work very well in taking out fine scratches and getting the plastic to near-new condition (assuming it's not too far gone of course).

[Pinder]

No its new so only a slight haze. on the area I wiped.

[Jordan]

Rather than start a new thread I just wanted to add to this one.  Will soon get started on this as well and wanted to know if there is anything I am missing and should order now before getting started (see pic).  The top is from German Auto Tops.

In addition to the top itself, I have two straps, two wire threads (in the bag) and two rubber pieces. Am I missing anything?  Thanks.

[GM]

I used wide blue painter's tape and taped the tissue papers on the inside and outside of the window (on the canvas and headliner) -- just to prevent any accidental scrapes. Doesn't stick very well, but it reminded me to take the time to keep it covered 

[Pinder]

my old top had an elastic that followed the path of the straps. It was about the width of the old strap maybe slightly smaller. I think it helps when the top is folded own for one of the cross members to fold back.

[Jordan]

Good idea Gary about keeping the window covered.  It has tissue covering it now so I'll just tape it down.

Pinder, the two straps I have do have elastics under the middle part of the strap.  You can't see it in the pics but that is why they looked buckled.

I will also order new rubber for the front, back and windows since it looks like, from the video, they will get beat up removing them.

[Pinder]

Yes I did order new rubber for front and back. and side windows. worth doing it.

[GM]

Recommend getting MB rubber - others have poorer fit

[cfm65@me.com]

Well done, Pinder

[Jordan]

So today I removed my old soft top and I have a question already.  My gasket on the sides that sit next to the wind up window was in 3 pieces, one on the side and 2 along the top; the separation being at the hinge across the top.  The MB replacement I got is a single piece.  I assume I will need to cut this into 3 pieces?  If so do I do this before installing it or maybe after so I can get the cuts in exactly the correct location?  Thanks.

Lots of old glue to remove before moving forward.

[Lorsar]

Cut first, then install - much easier.

 https://youtu.be/l_e3BSRZTAY

[Jonny B]

Excellent link! I need to replace those seals on my 250 SL. I have the items, just have not taken the time to do the cuts and fits. Good visuals.

[Jordan]

Cut first, then install - much easier.

 https://youtu.be/l_e3BSRZTAY

Perfect.  Thanks.

[GM]

You also want to be sure to have these "clips" in the channel, which prevents the rubber from sliding. A couple were missing during my install.

[Jordan]

I found two behind the rubber on the centre window gasket but nothing under the other two sections.

[Jordan]

One of the first tasks given in the tech manual is to secure the inner cloth strips.  Unfortunately I forgot to measure the rear frame bar from the one in front.  Does it make sense to secure the strip to the front and first 2 frame bars and leave the last one until the front of the soft top has been glued and secured in place.  I figure I could then get a better placement of the rear bar with the inner fabric strips before screwing the cloth strip to the bar.  Does that make sense?

[Jordan]

Two more questions.

I received two pieces of rubber with the soft top when I ordered it.  What are they for (see first pic below)?

As you can see in the second pic, the inner cloth strip is about the same length as the old one, without the new one being stretched to take up the slack in the elastic.  When I extend the strip to its full length it is about 10cm (4") longer than the old one.  Do I extend it to its full length when I screw it to the frame bars?

[Pinder]

those rubber strips are to seal the gap between the top of the soft top and the top of the frame along passenger and driver windows.

[rwmastel]

Not between glass and frame, but between frame and cloth?  Just making sure I understand.  (I may undertake this job next year.)

[Pinder]

Correct. Between the frame and the top.

[Jordan]

Correct. Between the frame and the top.

Sorry Pinder, I am still not understanding where exactly this should go.  I did not find these when I removed my old top.  They are indented at one end and curved at the other end so they must fit in a particular place, I am just not finding where.  Do you have a pic where you could point to it.

Thanks for confirming that the strap is installed stretched, makes sense.  I did find that the when stretched, the stitching at the ends of the elastic part line up exactly with the 2nd and 3rd frame bar, (see pic) provided I sit the front a little more forward than the old one.

[BobH]

Have a look on here, there's an album of pictures for the whole process, it may help

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=12179.0

[Jordan]

Have a look on here, there's an album of pictures for the whole process, it may help

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=12179.0

Thanks Bob.  Yes that helped somewhat.  Hopefully it is OK I borrowed some of the pics.  I assume the first pic is the rubber strip, where it starts at the A pillar.  The second pic shows that it bends with the canvas top so I assume it is glued in place(?).  The last pic I think shows the back end tucked behind the top of the window trim/gasket rail?  The pictures suggest that these strips are installed at the end of the soft top installation, just prior to installing the window gaskets.  Is that correct?  Hopefully all my inane questions will help others in the future.

[BobH]

Not inane questions at all if you've never done it before.  I've never tried this myself, so i can't answer your questions.  I may have tackled a job like this a few years ago, but i would leave it to the professionals now if i needed a new top

[Jordan]

So have progressed to actually installing the top.  Strips are in place. 

When I drape the new top on the frame I notice there is considerably more material under the front lip (pic 1).  So much so that it covers the holes for the front handles.  The old cover ended pretty much at the edge of the rail that holds the front gasket (pic 2 and 3).  If I glue all this down it will cover a good part of the beige vinyl.  Just wondering what it should actually look like and should I just glue down the portion under the rail to the front edge and then trim off the excess?  Appreciate any thoughts on this and perhaps what others looks like along the edge of the rail (like my old one?).  Is it trimmed back or does the fabric extend beyond it?  Thanks.

[BobH]

If you look at pictures 31,36,95,97, 108, 173 and 174 they show the finished look, same as your old soft top pictures, looks like the excess fabric is trimmed so you don't see any hood fabric once the metal channel and new rubber seal is fitted

[GM]

Make sure the "bead" on the edge of the canvas front "stands" on the edge of the metal frame (dry fit)
Then dry fit the metal channel that is screwed on (that holds the front rubber gasket), mark the location of the rear edge of the metal channel on the canvas (chalk or dressmaker crayon works).
Disassemble and trim the canvas at the mark.
Then re-assemble with glue.

[Jordan]

Perfect, thanks Gary.  That is what I was thinking and it is nice to get confirmation before "cutting". 

[GM]

Most importantly - mark the center of the canvas and make sure when re-assembling that it's lined up with the center of the frame

[Jordan]

So getting back at it after taking a few days off while our daughter gave birth to another beautiful grand child.

Two questions:

What is the purpose of having two flaps of material along the vertical sides (see pic below)?  The inner one is about double the width of the outer one.  This was not on my old top so trying to understand why there are two flaps.  I assume both go under the gasket rails?  Or maybe the thinner one doesn't get glued or go under the gasket rail?

Second question.  The side wire cables are quite a bit longer than the ones I removed.  So much so that they bottom out on the sides (once through the bolt and into the hole) before laying flat.  If I cut it I'm concerned it will unravel as it looks to be a wound cable.  Anyone else come across this?  And what did you do?

Thanks for the continued assistance.

[BobH]

Congratulations on the birth of your new apprentice

Have a look on here regarding the tensioning wire

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=33927.msg248434#msg248434

[Jordan]

So I ended up just cutting the tension wires once I had tightened and screwed them down.  The one did unravel a bit before I got it stuffed down the hole but hopefully I'll never have to touch them again for as long as the top lasts.

I would like some comment if possible on the two strips of fabric along the back part of the window.  I assume there is a reason for having them but I don't know what it is and am unable to find any other pictures or reference to there being two strips.  My top isn't from GAHH, but KHM.

BobH, your post went up as I was typing mine.  I had the routing sorted, it was just too long.  Feeding it down the hole it would hit the bottom and still have slack between the screw down and hole.  I couldn't stuff anymore into the hole.

[BobH]

is this the part of the hood you're asking about, see reply 1609?

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=18284.msg158455#msg158455

[Jordan]

is this the part of the hood you're asking about, see reply 1609?

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=18284.msg158455#msg158455

BobH, that is perfect.  Thank you. I couldn't understand why there would be two strips.  I glue them both down as this part of the top is under a lot of stress so it just adds some reinforcement.  I can now proceed with finishing off the top.

[Pinder]

Sorry I didn't log in for a while so just saw your question. Yes there are two strips to glue down and it is for reinforcement as answered already. you glue down the bottom one to the frame and the apply glue to top one and then glue that down . then metal trim will hold it all in place. I had to re do this a couple of times to get it right so it stretches the top with no wrinkles. I worked from the top part downwards.

Hope that helps. I unlatched the back bow to help in stretching it so rolled edge lines up to the angled frame.

[Pinder]

 Marcus

I was just wondering what type of rivets did you eventually use to secure the straps to the second bow?  Also how did it all turn out? It looks like the top you ordered was more complete than the one I purchased in that it had new wire and new straps with elastic pre installed.

Regards

    Pinder

[Jordan]

Marcus

I was just wondering what type of rivets did you eventually use to secure the straps to the second bow?  Also how did it all turn out? It looks like the top you ordered was more complete than the one I purchased in that it had new wire and new straps with elastic pre installed.

Regards

    Pinder

Pinder, the new top looks fantastic.  I'll post a pic once I get back out to the barn.

I tried out a few rivets using the old strap on a piece of steel, similar in thickness to the end of the bow rod.  I ended up using a standard aluminum pop rivet, I think 5/32 x 1/4" as I couldn't get anything metric.  The flat part of the rivet was on the fabric side (see pic below).  Once the rivet was tightened I put the fabric side on a clean piece of steel and hammered the expanded rivet on the other side until it was nice and flat.  I ran my finger over it to make sure there were no sharp edges that could catch the top.  You would never see that side so I wasn't too concerned with how it looked.  Obviously I did this before I secured the strap to the frame.

[Pinder]

That looks great. I would have tried the same type of rivet. Great job.

[Duncan200]

Hi Marcus,

A slightly delayed post but here goes.

This is the first picture I’ve seen on the forum that shows the 1st Bow and how it’s fitted to the soft top.

I’m early in the process of fitting my top and between this and the earlier post from Bob showing pictures, I think I’ll be able to work it out.

My cars old soft top appeared to have never come with the first bow, if it did, in it 57 years of life, it’s gone missing.

My new soft top comes with the fabric to fit around the first bow, I am going to head to my local Bunnings (Home Depot/Hardware Store) and buy a 16mm 1 metre piece of aluminium tube to fashion in to a bow.

I have had what I thought to be a pretty thorough search of the forum and can’t seem to find anything on whether the soft top has 3 or 4 bows.

Maybe I’m the only one who has lost the fourth bow and only discovered it due to the new soft top I’ve been supplied?

Cheers Doug

[Duncan200]

Hi All,

I thought I'd reply again to bump this thread as I need to ask a question.

I was going to purchase 16mm diameter aluminium tube to make up a new first bow since mine is missing.

It looks as though the bow is smaller in diameter than 16mm.

Can I ask someone to please measure their first bow and tell me its diameter?

Once known, I can make one up.

Thanks Doug

[BobH]

Hello Doug, i just measured mine on a 1965 car, and it's 16mm diameter, i took a couple of pictures showing the welded bracket and fixing

[Duncan200]

Hi Bob,

Thanks mate, but I’m actually after the dimensions of the 1st bow that is just attached to the straps.

If you look at the pics of my earlier post you can see the bow you’ve measured in the second flaps of fabric, I know that one is 16mm.

The one I need is in front of that one, between it and the front piece that sits on top of the windscreen frame.

Thanks for trying to help.

Doug

[BobH]

Sorry Doug, i didn't class that piece as a bow, as it's not part of the frame, it's a bar with flattened ends, riveted into the canvas

It's 10 or 11mm, difficult to measure accurately, pictures below