I rolled my pagoda last night...

[mbzse]

ok, thank you, so this is light green

Yes, and the dot between the fasteners is yellow

[Pawel66]

Thank you Hans. I did not understand that yellow point. Marking screws - ok, but this yellow dot?

[mbzse]

The paint markings put on fasteners and other parts of Mercedes cars on the production line has been discussed several times on our Forum. Just put in search key "dotology" and you will find many postings.
In principle, these dots are part of quality control. A paint dab indicates "assembly complete", "torque applied", others "fluid filled", "front suspension aligned", "steering and toe-in aligned" and so on.
These markings were put on by workers in the factory, with a brush. Colours red, yellow, pale green, and blue.
See https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=26299.msg188316#msg188316

PS.  I added this in Tech Manual under "Chassis and Body"

[Shvegel]

Here is my "Trying to make sense of it"  The yellow dots on the insides of the control arms let you know they are in the right positions as they are sided left and right.  The light green on the compensating spring bracket says the bolts are tight.  The yellow dot says "Camber OK" and the red over the green as seen in John's picture says "We changed a spacer and now the camber is OK and the red says we re checked the bolts a second time after we replaced the spacer."

[Pawel66]

The paint markings put on fasteners and other parts of Mercedes cars on the production line has been discussed several times on our Forum. Just put in search key "dotology" and you will find many postings.
In principle, these dots are part of quality control. A paint dab indicates "assembly complete", "torque applied", others "fluid filled", "front suspension aligned", "steering and toe-in aligned" and so on.
These markings were put on by workers in the factory, with a brush. Colours red, yellow, pale green, and blue.
See https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=26299.msg188316#msg188316

PS.  I added this in Tech Manual under "Chassis and Body"

Hans,

Yes, thank you. I am somewhat familiar with the topic, been studying it for a while. I am enclosing my "collection" gathered from many posts. But I have obvious gaps, so thanks - it is also about a number of other topics, activities, tasks completed etc., as you said.

In this particular question I was after what could various colours mean in this paticular instance. I knew that dots were about confirming tightening of screws or nuts in important places, torques perhaps, oil filling, etc. What I did not understand was this instance of light green (which I could not recognize on the picture, thought it was white) and yellow on top of it as well as some other "multi-colour" places.

[Pawel66]

Here is my "Trying to make sense of it"  The yellow dots on the insides of the control arms let you know they are in the right positions as they are sided left and right.  The light green on the compensating spring bracket says the bolts are tight.  The yellow dot says "Camber OK" and the red over the green as seen in John's picture says "We changed a spacer and now the camber is OK and the red says we re checked the bolts a second time after we replaced the spacer."

Shvegel, thank you - I see now. It is the assembly activity log of certain sort, not just simple "tightening" confirmation. This means the dots may vary from car to car to some extend maybe. Thank you for your patience.

[afeustel]

So I learned  new trick from Shvegel recently. I needed to replace my gas line grommets and I could only find 2 online. There is actually about ten of these in the car for different uses. He told me to by a solid rubber line online cut it to length and drill a hole in the center.

Works great and cost less than ten bucks  for the rubber!

John

Hi John. Great documentation on your work. The car is awesome.  Sorry for reaching back to the topic of the gas line grommets (and I believe brake line grommets as well on the rear axle), but do you happen to recall where you ordered the solid rubber line from and also what the diameter was?

Thanks for your time.
Drew

[johnk]

I will look it up drew. I found it on the internet by searching for solid rubber line. There were lot of options but most were too small in diameter. What I got was slightly thinner than the original but it was wasn't noticeable after wrapping around the line.  The idea was Shvegel's.

[johnk]

Hi John. Great documentation on your work. The car is awesome.  Sorry for reaching back to the topic of the gas line grommets (and I believe brake line grommets as well on the rear axle), but do you happen to recall where you ordered the solid rubber line from and also what the diameter was?

Thanks for your time.
Drew

Drew,
What you are searching for is "solid rubber Cord" I couldn't find who I bought mine from but looks like Cleverdelights lists a lot of difference sizes on Amazon.  Its about $20 for ten feet of the cord.

[afeustel]

Thank you very much. I will give that a try.  Was there a particular diameter that you used? Seems like it should be around 1/2" or so?

[johnk]

Seems that my old ones were about 5/8’s and the closest I could find was in mm and slightly smaller. I can measure today.  I think half inch was too small.

[johnk]

Just measured my old ones. Half inch should work.

[Shvegel]

Drew,
Might also be listed as “O-ring stock”.

[afeustel]

Thanks to you both for the intel.

Drew

[MikeSimon]

John: Don't you think the original part was "metric", i.e.: size in mm?

[johnk]

I didn’t remember the exact size when he first asked. Just thought it was close to 5/8’s.

[Shvegel]

Turns out the technical term is O-ring cord stock.  This is where I order stock for the ship I work on.  Either Buna or EPDM in a 70 durometer should be fine. Sizes here to 1" or 25.4mm.


https://www.theoringstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=117

[johnk]

So here is my differential with the original dots replaced. I had a delay in getting this finished in that I didn’t have the blue paint I thought I did

The pictures colors aren’t completely true. The bolts have light green on them not light blue.

[johnk]

I split my calibers as I had some light rust in the inside cylinder wall that I wanted to remove with a hone and make sure that portion was replated.

Schvegel gave me the source to find the O-rings that don’t come with the rebuild kit. I plan on finishing them tomorrow once I pick up some loctite for the bolts.

[johnk]

I'm having difficulty locating the rubber grommet(s) for where the rear cross strut connects to the top of the differential.
The only thing I can locate are the two rubber donuts that secure the cross strut to the chassis. To be honest I can't locate the original rubber that I removed to even see what they look like. Any help is appreciated in that regard!

[mbzse]

.../...the rubber grommet(s) for where the rear cross strut connects.../... the original rubber that I removed to even see what they look like.../...

See attached.  (17) is the sealing grommet

[Pawel66]

A 113 351 00 91, about $10, I bought it 2 weeks ago at MB dealer.

[johnk]

See attached.  (17) is the sealing grommet

Thanks but that is on the attachment to the chassis. I need the grommet where the strut clamps on to the large eyelet on the differential housing.

I will stop by the mercedes dealer and see if I can point it out on their charts. I need to price an exhaust anyways.

[johnk]

See attached.  (17) is the sealing grommet

I didn’t see the whole picture on my phone at first. 113-351-0448 is exactly what I am looking for thank you!

[johnk]

So I ordered the correct grommets from my local Mercedes dealer. $54 per side. Ouch! I am starting to see how a full restoration replacing all rubber components is so expensive.