Author Topic: 1964 230SL restoration in UK (Read 238392 times)

Cees Klumper · « **Reply #375 on:** November 20, 2016, 14:54:23 »

Nice going, thanks for posting the updates.

Scottcorvette · « **Reply #376 on:** November 24, 2016, 08:28:07 »

Thanks Cees, it feels like slow progress though..

I've been working on the trailing arm floor section the last couple of evenings and am making some headway. It has all gone relatively straightforward, the new panel is not particularly good but it is better than I can make so will have to do. I am using as little of it as possible so as not to have to redo the trailing arm mount, and because the shape is not brilliant.

I got each end to line up ok, I had to sharpen up all the fold lines and redo the fold that makes the drain but in the end it started to look not too bad.

Once it was welded at each end I then trimmed the sides, I put a piece of thin steel between that and the rocker so the cutting disc didn't mark the rocker, then welded the bottom section.

After that I heated up the centre part of the join and gently tapped it down to meet, there is a slight dip there which I will fill with a bit of weld, and after I'm done I will dummy spot weld the outside edge. I also need to heat up and just flatten the area a little that the captive nut goes on to and then drill for that, I think I need to extend slightly the drain channel too.

After it was done I realised I'd left the outer part of it too long so it looked different to the other side, I very carefully cut 3/8" off the outside edge which looks better, I need to sharpen up my game though, I was so busy concentrating on all of this I didn't think to check and make sure it was the same as the other side.

Slow old business this...

Howard Long · « **Reply #377 on:** November 24, 2016, 17:30:43 »

I am in the middle of the trailing arm floor section also. I have completed the driver's side and have the passenger side nearly prepared for the new plate. I replaced the entire panel but I am learning that that is not always the best way, slow learner.

I agree that the reproduction parts do not fit very well but with the help of a hydraulic press and a few clamps and vice-grips I have been able to get them to fit. The main problem with this parts from K & K seems to be that it was warped during manufacturing and there was no effort to straighten it out at the factory. I also agree that each part is larger than the original and needs to be trimmed to fit properly. I guess I wonder like you, if the Mercedes part would fit better or if we would have the same problems.

Here are a few photos.

Howard

Scottcorvette · « **Reply #378 on:** November 24, 2016, 18:45:07 »

It's funny that we are doing exactly the same jobs at the same time! Well maybe a few hours apart...

Are you doing just bodywork or is going to be the full works? I wonder who will get finished first!

Howard Long · « **Reply #379 on:** November 24, 2016, 20:16:33 »

I just planning to do the metal repair work that I know about and then send it to the media blaster to see about other problem areas. I do not plan to do the finish body work. I plan to have the body shop do a couple coats of expoy primer, seal the seams, apply body schulz and then finish the inside and underneath of the body. Then I plan to bring it back home to reassemble and get it running. Finally it will go back to the body shop for prepping of the hardtop and the aluminum parts and then the final body work and finish paint of everything. Then back home for windshield and trim. Finally it will go out again for the interior.

I think that you will beat me to the finish line but at age 75 I cannot take too many more years getting this done.

Howard

PIP1947 · « **Reply #380 on:** November 26, 2016, 12:39:13 »

Hi Scott
For many years I had an April 1965 230SL (RHD) 4 speed manual in burgundy red. Being an English car, it had a bit of rust in the floors, but nothing too serious My mechanic couldn't work out if the car had 160,000 or 260,000 miles on it, as it blew a little smoke under hard acceleration. Some time between your car and April 1965, MB changed the location of the spare wheel, moving it to a flat position on the right side of the boot. They also increased the size of the inner front guards, to accomodate slightly wider wheels and tyres. The best feature of the 2.3 litre car is the way it revs. The 4 bearing motor is a screamer, making the 230SL great fun to drive hard. The burgundy red looks wonderful when it is clean, but shows every speck of dust. I like your idea of mid blue, especially if it is metallic. I also recommend that you purchase the complete 230SL parts manual from the classic centre. It contains drawings of every single part you will need. I really enjoy seeing your photos me videos, so please keep posting.

Regards

Pip1947

1968 280SL auto (RHD) Tunis Beige Metallic

Scottcorvette · « **Reply #381 on:** November 30, 2016, 20:57:54 »

Thanks Pip1947, I really am struggling to decide on a colour at the moment.

I didn't get a full day on the Mercedes on Saturday so progress was limited. I got the rest of the trailing arm floor pan welded in and made the spot welds. I made a start on getting the original piece of the rear seat crossmember ready to go back in too, I had to add around 3/16" to it's edge to meet up with the crossmember. The sides off this piece were quite pitted inside so I cut those off and started to make templates for the new bits.

I did get to seam sealing around the new panels in the front of the car, I'll do the rest once the welding is done at the rear. I also redid a few of the spot welds I wasn't happy with, so it was a day of fettling rather than any major milestones, still, it moves ever forward.

Scottcorvette · « **Reply #382 on:** December 01, 2016, 08:01:33 »

Thanks to cold weather and nights drawing in I've got quite a bit done in the evenings. This week I've been mainly making repair pieces and cutting out floors...

I was curious about the RH rear floor pan, it always looked a bit of a mess on the inside rear corner nest to the transmission tunnel, and when I drilled that panel off last night all was revealed, seems there is a whole bunch of everything overlapping in that corner and also the original pan overlapped the flange of the rear seat crossmember.

I'll see how the new one fits but I think I may trim the floor to sit against it so it looks a bit neater, or maybe I'll just hammer it in over the top of everything else, in the interests of originality of course!

There was a hole in the floor pan which looks original, just below the seat mount and right nest to the exhaust hanger, anyone know what that is for?

Scottcorvette · « **Reply #383 on:** December 01, 2016, 08:26:10 »

I also cut out the back of the seat crossmember and trimmed the repair piece ready to go in then cut the drain hole in it. I have to weld in the seat belt mount on the rear crossmember repair piece and then weld the cuts I made to bend the flanges. Once that is all done I can give all the mating surfaces a coat of weld thru primer and whack em in.

The plan is to get all of this done and then I can paint inside all the box sections with the correct mushroom colour before I close them all up for good.

Nice that I'm getting towards the end of this part of the restoration though. I should think you'll all be glad to pictures of something other than floorpans....

neelyrc · « **Reply #384 on:** December 01, 2016, 12:23:20 »

Scott, the pics are great as is your overall project. Keep them coming!

Shvegel · « **Reply #385 on:** December 03, 2016, 15:18:58 »

Scott,
Is the hole you are trying to figure out a sheet metal screw hole? I am thinking it might be the rearmost screw hole for the aluminum exhaust heat shield. There isn't much else on the starboard side.

Howard Long · « **Reply #386 on:** December 03, 2016, 15:31:34 »

Scott,

I agree with Shvegel, that hole is the aft hole for mounting the heat shield. I put my heat shield in storage and I was looking for it as I am about ready to start on that side to put in the floor. It is around here somewhere.

Howard

Scottcorvette · « **Reply #387 on:** December 03, 2016, 19:14:28 »

You guys are awesome, thanks!

Shvegel · « **Reply #388 on:** December 04, 2016, 02:52:19 »

Scott,
Someone told me once that in the UK the right side of the car was the right side when looking at it from the front where in the US the right side is the right when seated in the driver's seat. Is this true? I have avoided using right and left when dealing with anyone in the UK for that reason and I just wondered if maybe he was wrong?

Scottcorvette · « **Reply #389 on:** December 04, 2016, 08:39:08 »

I've always used left and right as if I'm sat in the car looking forwards, but sometimes over here people do use it as if you are looking at the front of the car. I have no idea why anyone would do that as any time anything is referred to as left or right hand drive it is always from the viewpoint of the driver. It can get a bit confusing so I always spell it out very clearly.

If it is someone I don't know then I always tell them 'as if you are sat in the car looking forwards' when I specify left or right side. I am somewhat Americanised in my ways and terminology though as I am constantly dealing with the USA because of my job.

Over here the majority of garages use nearside for left and offside for right, left being the nearest side to the kerb, I've never gotten on with that and always use left or right, it's the way I was brought up see!

Shvegel · « **Reply #390 on:** December 04, 2016, 11:53:29 »

When I taught for BMW I always told our students if they couldn't find the leak the customer complained about in the left front tire check the "other left" front tire.

Howard Long · « **Reply #391 on:** December 04, 2016, 19:20:47 »

Scott,

In the US, I find that I have always used Driver's side and Passenger's side for things like that but for you and I and left hand drive and right hand drive, that would raise another problem, so maybe I need to revisit that way of thinking.

I am with you that Left and right always is based on looking forward in the car.

Howard

star63 · « **Reply #392 on:** December 04, 2016, 19:55:39 »

Hmm...how about the crankshaft, then - is it turning clockwise or counterclockwise?

(and when looking from which direction)

Rolf-Dieter ✝︎ · « **Reply #393 on:** December 05, 2016, 00:37:18 »

I would guess it be CCW looking from the front toward the driver.

No matter if it be a LH or RH drive ~grin~

Dieter

waqas · « **Reply #394 on:** December 05, 2016, 00:41:01 »

Wouldn't that be anticlockwise?

Personally, I think we should bring back Dexter/Sinister. Problem is, which one's the shield-bearer? Pagoda driver or mechanic?

Rolf-Dieter ✝︎ · « **Reply #395 on:** December 05, 2016, 01:04:59 »

As you know Waqas, CCW means "Counterclockwise" or "Carrying a Concealed Weapon"

We always used CW or CCW in Engineering and Large Rotating Equipment maintenance work and describing it in "View of or Looking in Direction of" was also important to avoid confusion. Mind you we were never allowed to carry a Concealed Weapon

no one in an Atomic Power Plant especially. Mind you I once installed a Gas Turbine in Iran and the plant manager put his revolver on the desk during a scheduling meeting (after the meeting I made my way to the airport, never ever to return). That's another story

I guess they got her running eventually, only not with my help.

Dieter

Scottcorvette · « **Reply #396 on:** December 08, 2016, 07:01:57 »

It's always looking at the crank pulley, at least that's how I've always done it, I have never concealed a weapon though.

Not that much happened to the Mercedes this week, I had to fit a new exhaust system to the Porsche so that got in the way of any serious Pagoding. I did get the seat crossmember finished up. I need Ronni to help me modify the drain channel in my trailing arm floor piece and then I can paint inside all the box sections and finish welding the rear crossmember back together. Once that is done I'll be on with the rear floor.

I also filled in the old seat belt holes, so each week passes and a little more is accomplished. I am taking this Saturday off to go Christmas shopping so whether I'll get all this done before we break up for the holidays is uncertain. I'd really like to so I can get primer on everything, it would also be nice to think that once I start again in the new year I can work on something different.

Scottcorvette · « **Reply #397 on:** December 18, 2016, 06:58:44 »

Got the rear seat crossmember finished up yesterday. This side definitely went easier than the other side. On that one I had made the repair pieces for the sides and then welded them to the top section before installing it into the car, this made it easier to weld and then clean up after but installing it was a real bear.

It has been a bit of a wait to get this in because I wanted to get some paint inside the box section so I waited until I had a few areas to paint before I mixed it up.

On this side I made the repair sections, welded the original top piece back in and then let the side sections in, getting the welding torch in was more difficult, and I find welding on the side more difficult anyway so I won't be winning any welding awards for it but it cleaned up OK and actually looks better in real life than in the pictures, I've got a very unkind camera...

I'm pleased this is on and done now, I really feel like I'm getting near the end of a very long journey!

Scottcorvette · « **Reply #398 on:** December 20, 2016, 06:57:27 »

There's been a massive change of tack now. I have a lot of chrome plating to get done for work and rather than entrust it to a carrier I'm going to deliver it to the platers myself early in January, in which case I want to make the trip as worthwhile as possible so I'll take all the Mercedes stuff at the same time. The stuff that Waytts polishing in Thetford did wrong or to a poor standard....

With that in mind the massive task of stripping the soft top frame was waiting for me, I expected this to be a world of hurt and I was planning to deal with it when the car was at the paint shop, but i started on the strip down last night.

I imagine when this thing was new the convertible top frame was a real pleasure to work on, now of course it is a collection of rusted screws and broken captive nuts. I had a bit of a struggle to get the rear bow off as a few of the captives were turning, I managed to get most out by holding a screwdriver between the bow and it's mounting and keeping pressure against the captive nut but I had to drill one out.

The problem here is that all the captive nuts are inside the rear bow and all need repair, or at least the cages tweaking, trouble si I can't seem to get into them without cutting the rear bow open, maybe there is an easier way but I can't see it yet.

Also one of the cable retainers has been broken in the past and that was held in by a screw so I need to deal with that too.

More of a problem though is that after a bit of research on this forum it seems I am missing all the rear bow cables and cylinder. I haven't been able to turn up a good picture of the cylinder arrangement yet so if anyone has one I wouldn't mind a look. Even better if anyone has the cylinders and cables available that would help greatly. I'm a bit concerned that these may be very difficult to obtain.

Last but not least all the pivots that hold the frame together appear to have been staked over at the factory so getting those out is obviously going to be a bugger....

On the plus side, other than poor cosmetics and the missing/broken parts, the frame itself is in very good condition. It snaps shut nicely over the side windows with no sag, and the header bow appears to be in good shape, as does the wood rear bow, so it's not all doom and gloom.....or is it!

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #399 on:** December 20, 2016, 18:28:40 »

I just bought cylinders/plungers. One I got from MB and the other from Niemuller.

News:

Author Topic: 1964 230SL restoration in UK (Read 238392 times)