Author Topic: Hubcap painting  (Read 26908 times)

Jonny B

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Re: Hubcap painting
« Reply #25 on: November 24, 2008, 11:58:49 »
Richard,

I used a couple of very light coats of gloss clearcoat and some hubcaps I just painted. There was not a problem getting the tape off after a couple of weeks. I used the green 3M for the star, but I found that the blue vinyl tape (not the blue painters tape) was just right to mask off the thin chrome strip, the flexibility was just the thing to fit to the curbe of the raised chrome highlight.
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

ja17

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Re: Hubcap painting
« Reply #26 on: November 24, 2008, 17:36:57 »
Hello,

One thing to note, preparation is critical.  Apply the masking tape flat then carefully cut whith an xacto  knife. Paint does not like to stick to polished chrome or stainless steel.  I like to lightly blast the areas to be painted and also use a self etching primer wah primer (acid actually eats into the metal for a good bond).  It is also critical to use only enough paint to do the job. Too many heavy layers of paint or primer will cause ugly thick tape lines. As alwyays good quality automotive grade paints will perform best.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Richard Madison

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Re: Hubcap painting
« Reply #27 on: November 25, 2008, 13:29:23 »
My problem with the matte finish was not using enough paint. I swept the rattle can side to side too quickly and had a lot of air and not enough paint.

Applying a few "slow sweep" coats improved the look quite a bit.

The problem now is Paint Lift. When I removed the tape, some of the paint came off with the tape.

Was this due to to self etching primer not properly applied? or maybe the paint should be "cut" lightly with a razor blade along the tape edge before removing the tape?

Anyone know what caused this and how to prevent it?

One picture shows paint lifting and the other shows what it looked like after the first light coat went on.
Thanks,

Richard M, NYC
« Last Edit: November 25, 2008, 13:31:04 by 280SL71 »
1969 280 SL, Tunis Beige, Euro Model (Italy).

JOS

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Re: Hubcap painting
« Reply #28 on: November 25, 2008, 20:30:11 »
I have painted many hubcaps for my 1966 230SL (Five in one day)

(1) Scuff area to be painted with brass wool.
(2) Clean entire hubcap with lacquer thinner.
(3) Mask with blue tape as close as possible do not worry if chrome area is not completely mask.
(4) Clean one more time with lacquer thinner.
(5) Spray paint using self etching primer.
(6) Spray paint color coat.
(7) Remove masking tape.
(8) Using a smooth cotton rag clean up over spry from chrome surface. I spend my time been careful in cleaning the over spray than masking, with perfect results.

wwheeler

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Re: Hubcap painting
« Reply #29 on: November 25, 2008, 21:15:03 »
The thicker the paint coat, the more likely the paint will tear and not part on the tape line. This is simply because when the paint thickness is greater, it has more strength and overcomes the strength of the primer bond. The trick to a glossy shine with minimal paint thickness is using premium auto paint and a good spray gun. Most people don't have access to that so a rattle can is the only option.

Keep the primer and paint coats to minimum and use clear coat to achieve the shine. Also as others have pointed out, preparation is the key. I know of a adhesive primer (Bulldog) that sticks well to chrome and plastics. You can use the knife to cut the tape line but be carefull! You can also experiment with pulling the tape off before the paint is totally dry. The paint film strength is much lower when not 100% dry.

Good luck.
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6

stickandrudderman

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Re: Hubcap painting
« Reply #30 on: November 27, 2008, 20:15:30 »
I went to a model shop and bought some plasticard.
I placed one hub cap in my oven at home and positioned the plasticard over it.
80 degrees for half an hour left me with a perfect mould.
I then cut out the required panels and now have a fully re-useable template.
My first attempts were with a heat gun which also produced acceptable results, but the oven method is less labour intensive.
Use etch primer before applying top coat.

66andBlue

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Re: Hubcap painting
« Reply #31 on: November 29, 2008, 00:42:24 »
.. I then cut out the required panels and now have a fully re-useable template. ..
How do you remove the template after painting?  First cut along the border with a razor blade/scalpel, or just peel off??
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

stickandrudderman

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Re: Hubcap painting
« Reply #32 on: November 29, 2008, 16:37:59 »
It just peels off, although I do the cutting whilst its still on the hub cap (an old one)

66andBlue

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Re: Hubcap painting
« Reply #33 on: November 30, 2008, 05:13:34 »
Stick,
thanks for the reply but I guess I should have phrased my question better.  Once you have the template and now use it on a hubcap that you primed and painted, how do you get it off? Can you just peel it off or do you need to cut along the border before you peel it off?
Also could you post a picture of the template please?
Thanks!
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

hauser

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Re: Hubcap painting
« Reply #34 on: November 30, 2008, 05:48:40 »
Stick, did you make a mold of the hubcap and trimmed off the areas that receive paint?

stickandrudderman

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Re: Hubcap painting
« Reply #35 on: November 30, 2008, 13:04:45 »
Yes, I made a mould and then cut out the panels that obscure the spray area. I used a redundant hub cap so didn't have to worry about scoring it with the knife and I cut a few mm into the paint area so that I could finish with a file and get an accurate line.
I've recently experimented with the heat gun again and some slightly thicker card and have managed to make one that actually rolls around the rear edge of the cap in order that it physically clips to the  cap in the same way as the original template does. The centre star just sits in place as does the original. Obviously one cannot use a normal spray gun as you'd simply blow the template off, but an aerosol works fine.
The result gives a sllightly soft-edged finish, again as per the original.
I'm still experimenting and will post a full description and some photos once I think I've finalised the method and best type of card to use, but the early results are already quite acceptable.