Hubcap painting

[BaronYoungman]

In order to ensure a good job/ and save some money, I am going to tape off the hubcaps(1971) myself.  Is the best bet to use the 1/4" blue plastic tape sold at the body shop supply stores...or to use masking tape and then razor blade out the areas.  The thin blue tape seems to work, But I don't know what kind of finish to expect. and it isn't the most exacting where as the tape seems to be very exacting but I don't know how the edge will look.  Advice?

Thank you,
Bob
1971 280sl 1 car 15 boxes

[Jonny B]

I used a bit of a hybrid approach. I used the small blue tape to mask the ridge between the star and the first ring and to get the contour on the outer curve. I masked the star and cut it with a razor knife. We are waiting on the fifth hubcap to come back from the plater before we put the paint to the metal as it were. I will be curious to hear other reports.

Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto

[J. Huber]

Mine are at the painters as we speak. I got the impression they were up to the challenge of masking it off -- although the second person I spoke to started hemming and hawing about the quoted price -- stating how much labor was involved. My fingers are crossed...

James
63 230SL

[thelews]

John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

[J. Huber]

Ahhh John, I can only hope mine turn out so nice. Did you use an exacto to get the final edges?

Also, I am guessing these are from the 190? what is that small rectangular piece?

James
63 230SL

[jameshoward]

John,

Yes, great pics (seen them before) and love the finish but some explanatory words would paint a thousand hubcaps!

I am in the same boat.

James

[thelews]

I'd like to help, but I didn't paint them.  They were done by the shop.  I assume they used various widths of masking tape, obviously the thinner tapes can be contoured much more precisely.  I suspect on the outer rim, they used thin tape for the inner cut line and then piled on the wider stuff to cover.  I'm sure a sharp trimming knife fits into the picture, but some of these tapes are 1/8" thick.  You would need to visit a professional paint supplier, preferably with a hub cap in tow to get advice.

The rectangular piece is the radio delete plate without the logo.





John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

[graphic66]

I use a metal stencil with a handle on it. It works great, just set it on the hubcap and paint. I don,t know if you can get them anymore. You still need to mask the outer circle but that is easy.

[thelews]

quote:Originally posted by graphic66

I use a metal stencil with a handle on it. It works great, just set it on the hubcap and paint. I don,t know if you can get them anymore. You still need to mask the outer circle but that is easy.

I have no experience with it, but heard it can leave jagged edges.  I'd defer to your experience.  The rubber version is worthless.

John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

[Mark280SL]

I'm in the same situation needing to repaint the hub caps, I was going to go the route of masking tape, if a stencil is still available I might want to give it a try assuming they are still available. Does anyone know where they might be found?

Mark
1970 280 SL

quote:Originally posted by thelews

quote:Originally posted by graphic66

I use a metal stencil with a handle on it. It works great, just set it on the hubcap and paint. I don,t know if you can get them anymore. You still need to mask the outer circle but that is easy.

I have no experience with it, but heard it can leave jagged edges.  I'd defer to your experience.  The rubber version is worthless.

John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

[jsaylor]

Mark,

I have the silicon rubber stencil that worked great for me.

If you would like I'd loan it to you.

let me know

jsaylor@aloha.net

Jim Saylor
Kauai, Hawaii
'65 230SL

[Longtooth]

fwiw,
I know 2 professional restorer's for the MB's( business's of restoring W113's, 300 SE 6.3's, Gullwings, 190SL's, 300SL's, etc,) mask them off with the tape themselves, then give them to the painter.  It IS time consuming. Patience required.

I've asked them if there were a stencil, and if so why not use them... they both said it's not precise enough.  Of course, these guys are selling their perfection in restorations to those who want to afford to pay for it so there's some latitude for the rest of us.  

I don't know if they ever use an exacto knife to trim though... I rather doubt it, but will ask next time I see one of them.  I would think there's always the good possibility of scratching the chrome layer though when using the knife to trim.

Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
'02 SL500 Sport

[Benz Dr.]

You really don't want to use:
ordinary masking tape for the painted egde
a sharp knife that will scratch the chrome
one of the silicone rubber stencils

The plastic tape won't let paint bleed in and make a fuzzy line
sharp knife should be obvious
The silicone rubber do-dad is worse than ordinary masking tape. Makes a mess and is basically useless.

Think of it this way. You want your hub caps to look nice and stand out, right? Take the time and mask them yourself or have a pro do it for you......

Dan Caron's
 SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
 slbarn.mbz.org
  1 877 661 6061

[mrfatboy]

I'm going to be starting this project in the next couple of weeks.  I have a question abou the paint.  What paint did you use?  Do you use the dual stage (basecoat & clearcoat) or just single stage. Where did you get it? I have been to the paintscratch.com website and they sell the paint there but is there a better place?

How many coats of paint and or clearcoat do you put on?

Any recommendations would be helpful.

1969 280sl
Signal Red
4 Speed

[Mark280SL]

I'd like to know where to get the paint as well, I've taped my wheelcovers but have not tried to paint yet as the weather has been too cold but it is starting to warm and I'd like to do it soon.

Another question and I think it's important...and that is at what point do you carefully pull off/remove the tape after painting? Immediately after all paint is applied when still wet or do you wait a few minutes/hours ? or do you wait till it is totally dry?  I'm guessing before it is dry but any tips would be very helpful.

quote:Originally posted by mrfatboy

I'm going to be starting this project in the next couple of weeks.  I have a question abou the paint.  What paint did you use?  Do you use the dual stage (basecoat & clearcoat) or just single stage. Where did you get it? I have been to the paintscratch.com website and they sell the paint there but is there a better place?

How many coats of paint and or clearcoat do you put on?

Any recommendations would be helpful.

1969 280sl
Signal Red
4 Speed

Mark
1970 280 SL Ivory/Cognac

[J. Huber]

I just had mine done by a professional auto paint shop. Two times before, I went the route of stripping, taping, and painting them myself with the closest thing I could get to dark blue paint. Problem was all I know how to use is Krylon. So a lot of prep for a so-so look.

This time, I just let the shop do the whole shabang. 30 dollars a wheel which struck me as reasonable. They masked with tape -- just not sure exactly how they did it. Then they used a basecoat and clearcoat finish. I am very happy with the results. I would not grade it A+ but a solid A-. Of course, my rims are the originals so the chrome is not perfect either. Wheels are a big part of the 230SL look.

As for color -- I took the Glasurit code (332) to the local paint place. In a matter of seconds he converted it to the formula for the paint they sell. Matched my hard-top exactly.

Download Attachment: hubcap.jpg
65.7 KB

James
63 230SL

[Jonny B]

I just finished painting five hubcaps. I used an old cap as a trial, and that was well worth the time for me. I used tape (the blue 3M tape for the inside ring was just right). I painted them with several very light coats of new metal primer and let that set for about an hour. Then I went with two very light coats of the finished color, came back in an hour, did two more light coats. Then I let them set for an hour or so and then, very carefully peeled off the tape. The critical item was making sure you completely pulled the tape and were very careful about not letting it touch the finished surface, since it was still a bit tacky. The results were great.
The blue, flexible 3M tape works very neatly. It is very important to use the flexible tape as it does not give any ridges, or spaces where the paint could seep onto the chrome (that you want as a clear and sharp line).

It is also important to make sure you can cover/protect the paint just after you spray them to ensure that there is minimal to no particulates falling to rest on the shiny finish.

Actually the $30 sounds pretty reasonable. It took me about 20 minutes per cap just to do the taping.

Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto

[Longtooth]

o.k. jonny B, I'm game to ask.... what are you using to apply the paint to the nicely masked off hub-caps?  Seem's like a lot of overkill to use a professional spray gun for the small amount of paint used on 4 masked off hubcaps.... so is there some other cheaper (DIY type) simple spray gun that will give even spray pattern? or am I stuck going to the pro's at auto-body paint shops?

Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
'02 SL500 Sport

[Bob G]

I purchased the orginal hubcap painting mask kit for the small and full hub caps. I haven't had a chance to use  it but comes summer I will be doing some testing. I understand a good hint is you place magnets under the hubcap to keep the branding tool in place a large cover is used to fill in the slotted holes and prevent paint from getting on the chrome.
I also am new to a small HVLP gravity fed paint gun. Low pressure high volumn. I have some test hub caps I purchased long ago , my first victims!!!
The  orginal hubs-caps 040 black I had painted are ok from 10 feet away but  if you look at the detail the tap lines are poor quality. I should as a detailer for 38 years be able to do better even with my eyes closed.
Bob Geco

[mrfatboy]

I ordered my hubcap paint from a online company last week.  It comes in a spray can.  I'll post my results when finished.

quote:Originally posted by Longtooth

o.k. jonny B, I'm game to ask.... what are you using to apply the paint to the nicely masked off hub-caps?  Seem's like a lot of overkill to use a professional spray gun for the small amount of paint used on 4 masked off hubcaps.... so is there some other cheaper (DIY type) simple spray gun that will give even spray pattern? or am I stuck going to the pro's at auto-body paint shops?

Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
'02 SL500 Sport

1969 280sl
Signal Red
4 Speed

[Mark280SL]

I've never tried one of these disposable type sprayers and I own  HVLP equipment so I should use that on mine when the weather gets good enough to paint outside but I've heard people say if you are careful you can get good results with them on very small jobs like hubcap painting.  see link below...

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2155&familyName=Preval+Spray+Gun+Kit

quote:Originally posted by Longtooth

o.k. jonny B, I'm game to ask.... what are you using to apply the paint to the nicely masked off hub-caps?  Seem's like a lot of overkill to use a professional spray gun for the small amount of paint used on 4 masked off hubcaps.... so is there some other cheaper (DIY type) simple spray gun that will give even spray pattern? or am I stuck going to the pro's at auto-body paint shops?

Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
'02 SL500 Sport

Mark
1970 280 SL Ivory/Cognac

[Jonny B]

I must sheepishly admit I used a rattle can for the painting, and the color match for the car we are doing is so close that it is dang near impossible to tell. This just so happened to work for the car we are working on, (and we did test it first). Sort of like using the almond rustoleum for the interior of the bumpers.

Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto

[graphic66]

I used a rattle can also. My car is 040 black, so easy match. I clear coated it after several very very light coats. It has held up perfectly. I have the metal stencil and it did a very good job. I wax the hubcaps and clean them regularly, even with Westleys bleche white and the paint has held up.

[RBYCC]

I'm going to try something different.

I'll prepare the hubcaps for painting by sanding.
I intend to use a 2mil spray mask typically used to protect metal parts in shipment.

I'll spray the whole cap area, then use an Xacto knife to cut the outline of the painted area, then peel off the mask.

Prime with a metal etching primer then top coat and clear.

Result will be in peeling the mask off and see if there was any bleeding.

ED A.
1971 280SL
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO
1990 C43 AMG
2003 G55 AMG

[Richard Madison]

Painted the first hubcap today after several hours of taping with 3M green.

Used self-etching primer and spraycan enamel. Color came out pretty good but the surface has the typical spray paint matte finish.

If I want to get some luster and shine like the finish on the car, do I spray the hubcap with Clearcoat?

If yes, then I'll leave the tape on for a week or so until the clearcoat arrives. Hope I can remove the green tape after a week with no ill-effects.

Clearcoat: yes or no?

Richard M, NYC
69 Tunis Beige Euro

[Jonny B]

Richard,

I used a couple of very light coats of gloss clearcoat and some hubcaps I just painted. There was not a problem getting the tape off after a couple of weeks. I used the green 3M for the star, but I found that the blue vinyl tape (not the blue painters tape) was just right to mask off the thin chrome strip, the flexibility was just the thing to fit to the curbe of the raised chrome highlight.

[ja17]

Hello,

One thing to note, preparation is critical.  Apply the masking tape flat then carefully cut whith an xacto  knife. Paint does not like to stick to polished chrome or stainless steel.  I like to lightly blast the areas to be painted and also use a self etching primer wah primer (acid actually eats into the metal for a good bond).  It is also critical to use only enough paint to do the job. Too many heavy layers of paint or primer will cause ugly thick tape lines. As alwyays good quality automotive grade paints will perform best.

[Richard Madison]

My problem with the matte finish was not using enough paint. I swept the rattle can side to side too quickly and had a lot of air and not enough paint.

Applying a few "slow sweep" coats improved the look quite a bit.

The problem now is Paint Lift. When I removed the tape, some of the paint came off with the tape.

Was this due to to self etching primer not properly applied? or maybe the paint should be "cut" lightly with a razor blade along the tape edge before removing the tape?

Anyone know what caused this and how to prevent it?

One picture shows paint lifting and the other shows what it looked like after the first light coat went on.
Thanks,

Richard M, NYC

[JOS]

I have painted many hubcaps for my 1966 230SL (Five in one day)

(1) Scuff area to be painted with brass wool.
(2) Clean entire hubcap with lacquer thinner.
(3) Mask with blue tape as close as possible do not worry if chrome area is not completely mask.
(4) Clean one more time with lacquer thinner.
(5) Spray paint using self etching primer.
(6) Spray paint color coat.
(7) Remove masking tape.
( Using a smooth cotton rag clean up over spry from chrome surface. I spend my time been careful in cleaning the over spray than masking, with perfect results.

[wwheeler]

The thicker the paint coat, the more likely the paint will tear and not part on the tape line. This is simply because when the paint thickness is greater, it has more strength and overcomes the strength of the primer bond. The trick to a glossy shine with minimal paint thickness is using premium auto paint and a good spray gun. Most people don't have access to that so a rattle can is the only option.

Keep the primer and paint coats to minimum and use clear coat to achieve the shine. Also as others have pointed out, preparation is the key. I know of a adhesive primer (Bulldog) that sticks well to chrome and plastics. You can use the knife to cut the tape line but be carefull! You can also experiment with pulling the tape off before the paint is totally dry. The paint film strength is much lower when not 100% dry.

Good luck.

[stickandrudderman]

I went to a model shop and bought some plasticard.
I placed one hub cap in my oven at home and positioned the plasticard over it.
80 degrees for half an hour left me with a perfect mould.
I then cut out the required panels and now have a fully re-useable template.
My first attempts were with a heat gun which also produced acceptable results, but the oven method is less labour intensive.
Use etch primer before applying top coat.

[66andBlue]

.. I then cut out the required panels and now have a fully re-useable template. ..

How do you remove the template after painting?  First cut along the border with a razor blade/scalpel, or just peel off??

[stickandrudderman]

It just peels off, although I do the cutting whilst its still on the hub cap (an old one)

[66andBlue]

Stick,
thanks for the reply but I guess I should have phrased my question better.  Once you have the template and now use it on a hubcap that you primed and painted, how do you get it off? Can you just peel it off or do you need to cut along the border before you peel it off?
Also could you post a picture of the template please?
Thanks!

[hauser]

Stick, did you make a mold of the hubcap and trimmed off the areas that receive paint?

[stickandrudderman]

Yes, I made a mould and then cut out the panels that obscure the spray area. I used a redundant hub cap so didn't have to worry about scoring it with the knife and I cut a few mm into the paint area so that I could finish with a file and get an accurate line.
I've recently experimented with the heat gun again and some slightly thicker card and have managed to make one that actually rolls around the rear edge of the cap in order that it physically clips to the  cap in the same way as the original template does. The centre star just sits in place as does the original. Obviously one cannot use a normal spray gun as you'd simply blow the template off, but an aerosol works fine.
The result gives a sllightly soft-edged finish, again as per the original.
I'm still experimenting and will post a full description and some photos once I think I've finalised the method and best type of card to use, but the early results are already quite acceptable.