Author Topic: BOOT/TRUNK LOCK & PETROL CAP STRIP DOWN  (Read 6396 times)

DB280

  • Guest
BOOT/TRUNK LOCK & PETROL CAP STRIP DOWN
« on: August 30, 2007, 09:53:26 »
I am trying to take the trunk/boot lock apart with out success for re-chroming on a 68 280 SL.Also trying to strip a petrol cap down for the same purpose.

Any members have any tips about removing the lock barrels...

Thank you in advance

DB

114015

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Germany, Nordrhein-Westfalen, Tecklenburg
  • Posts: 2075
Re: BOOT/TRUNK LOCK & PETROL CAP STRIP DOWN
« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2007, 17:05:52 »
Yes DB

(BTW what is your real name?),

That is possible, both locks can be dismantled.

Fuel filler cap:
Remove the outer assembly first. These are the zink-plated part(s) that hold the cap in the fuel filler neck. It's pretty forward how that works.
Then remove the gasket of the ff cap. Underneath you will see two little holes, approx. 3 mm diameter. In one of these noses you will see a little sheetplate nose, which is spring-loaded. Push this one aside with a nail, needle, little screwdriver or so. While doing so you can prone the chromed cap off the inner part. Inside you'll find a coil spring, a lot of dirt and old grease. Wash it off with some gasoline. Eventually you can see a little snap ring, which needs to be removed. Keep it well, I have not been able to find these anywhere yet. After removal of the snap ring you can take out the cylinder lock mechanism - best is together with its key.
Now whash everything carefully with gasoline and you can send the outer cap for rechroming. A while ago there were quite some of these chromed outer caps on ebay for very reasonable money (about 25 Euros) but I haven't seen them in a while. Furthermore, the lock cylinder fits in those ones very, very tightly ...


The trunk lock (outer part, chrome assembly) disassembly is easier.
Take it out of the car, the biggest problem are the two short screw studs, which easily tend to brake when you try to unscrew the both 10 mm nuts with which the whole assembly is fixed to the car's body. Use a lot of WD-40 and be patient. It's well worth to wait.
Once out of the car you should clean everything with gasoline again.
You can now unscrew the angulated diecast "finger" that pushes the inner trunk assembly (visible from inside the trunk)with a Philips screwdriver.
Again there is a snap ring or retainer visible, which is fitted into a grove within the trunk lock assembly. Once everything is cleaned you will easily detect that one. Take it out with a little screw driver or so. Some tinkering might be necessary but it works well.
As far as I remember everything should come out then.
While the outer chrome part of the lock assembly can be easily rechromed, the inner part (the lock cylinder), which holds the lock mechanism (where the key goes in) is much more difficult.
Often this one is heavily rotten. It is then better to look for another used one... I believe the cylinders of a W110 (or W108) sedan should work.
Sorry I have no pics about the disassembly.

It's also worth to search our database here, maybe some pics are around there.

Good luck !



Achim
(Magdeburg, Germany)
Achim
(Germany)

hands_aus

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Australia, Queensland, Brisbane
  • Posts: 1543
Re: BOOT/TRUNK LOCK & PETROL CAP STRIP DOWN
« Reply #2 on: August 31, 2007, 04:37:02 »
Hi DB and Achim,

I hope these pics help.

I bought this sedan lock with a key for $15.00. Later I bought a 113 chrome locking cap with NO key for $100.00.

I swapped the tumblers over. It was tricky because I needed to swap the chrome escutcheon over too and behind the chrome escutcheon where the key enters there is a very small spring which can be easily lost.

Something to know.... You should insert the key in the tumbler when you remove it from the cap. This will prevent the 'pins?' inside that the key operates from falling out.

Also the tumbler comes out from the front.

Download Attachment: LockFuelCap_10.JPG
41.5 KB
Download Attachment: LockFuelCap_11.JPG
42.82 KB
Download Attachment: LockFuelCap_2TextAdded.JPG
18.51 KB
Download Attachment: LockFuelCap_3.JPG
45.1 KB
Download Attachment: LockFuelCap_4.JPG
46.5 KB
Download Attachment: LockFuelCap_5TextAdded.JPG
18.4 KB
Download Attachment: LockFuelCap_8.JPG
44.71 KB
Download Attachment: LockFuelCap_9.JPG
43.23 KB
Download Attachment: LockFuelCap_6.JPG
34.08 KB

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL #114, auto, ps , 717,717
best of the best

enochbell

  • Guest
Re: BOOT/TRUNK LOCK & PETROL CAP STRIP DOWN
« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2007, 09:34:32 »
DB,

On another note, you may want to ask the chromer if he can get you the results you want on the gas cap.  Mine came back nicely chromed, but the shop had to polish off a good bit of the Mercedes star in the process of finishing, now I wish I had just gone ahead and purchased a new one.  Not that big a deal, but I did not save that much by rechroming vs. buying new.  

Best,
g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

Bob G

  • Guest
Re: BOOT/TRUNK LOCK & PETROL CAP STRIP DOWN
« Reply #4 on: September 01, 2007, 17:14:09 »
You can get a new trunk lock assemblie keyed to your orginal car from the Classic center in Irvine. I ordered all new door handles with locks trunk lock assemblie glove box and ignition lock all  fit my orginal keys, with the exception of the glovebox lock which has been taken over by another manufacturer. Less engery and time and money wasted in my opinion.
Classic center : (949) 598-4850 Tom Hanson or woody will be more than happy to help you.

DB280

  • Guest
Re: BOOT/TRUNK LOCK & PETROL CAP STRIP DOWN
« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2007, 07:25:29 »
Hi
Thanks for replies
We have the lock barrel from the bootlock out and can see the retainer in the slot but cannot move it. Does it come straight out or slide round. Don't want to get too physical with it until we know which way it comes!!

Thanks in advance for any help

DB280