Position of the crankshaft seal

[Figoulu]

Hi gents

I was working under my car and noticed that the crankshaft seal isn’t sitting flush with the crankcase. There’s no sign of an oil leak, and I can see some sealant around it. What’s your opinion on this? (Please, only from those who really know 😁)

[Figoulu]

Nobody to help me ? 😅

[yves]

Sorry Francois……! I can’t help you but am on the professional answer…soon?

[Figoulu]

Sorry Francois……! I can’t help you but am on the professional answer…soon?

In case you have some time to spare if you could just take a look at yours and possibly post it here, it would ba great 👍

[WRe]

Hi,
the sealing ring must sit flat on the engine block.  Yours has moved too far outwards . Perhaps the inner Borgmann ring has shifted outwards too.
Attached are two pictures from the German Pagoda Forum.
...WRe

[Figoulu]

Hi,
the sealing ring must sit flat on the engine block.  Yours has moved too far outwards . Perhaps the inner Borgmann ring has shifted outwards too.
Attached are two pictures from the German Pagoda Forum.
...WRe

thanks  !

I noticed in the first picture that the seal doesn't appear to be 100% flush, but the angle of the photo might be a bit misleading…

If that’s really the case, I suppose it could be easily repositioned? I don’t think the seal has moved since it was installed.

I've asked the mechanic who did the work and I'm waiting for his response, but I wanted to get your advices in the meantime.
Anybody else to complete ?

[WRe]

In my first picture, too much additional sealant was probably used.
The "collar"/edge should fit tightly, if there is one (different parts).

[su8pack1]

I just replaced mine last month.

[Figoulu]

I just replaced mine last month.

And how was the seal against the crankcase ? Flush or not ?

[Benz Dr.]

Seal should be fairly even with the crankcase. Crooked seals can leak.

[Figoulu]

My mechanic said that I need to push it further so that it sits flush with the crankcase.
That means removing the radiator, fan, and belts (alternator, water pump, power steering pump...), then proceeding to remove the damper.
I guess I’ll need to replace the carnkshaft screw when putting everything back together.

Well... I’m a bit tired and now I understand why I prefer doing things by myself. At least if I’m disappointed with my work, I still save money.

[su8pack1]

This was my original before removing.

[Figoulu]

Anybody to guide me to block the engine and remove the damper ?
Would you engage the gearbox ?
Would you put a rod thru the camshaft gear ?

[Benz Dr.]

I use an air impact gun. It should rip it out easily without turning the crankshaft. Then I use a 6 inch extension behind the front balance weight and use the extension to block any movement while I torque the screw down while installing. Be sure to use a bit of oil on the threads of the screw and also on the washers. Gives a much better torque down with lubrication. 

[Figoulu]

Hi Dr Benz

Thanks for your feedback !
Would you change the crankshaft screw , It seems mandatory for me...

[wwheeler]

One thing to point out regarding seal material. The brown ones are most likely to be a high temperature material similar to the trade name Viton. The black seal will most likely be a Nitrile. The Viton will have better properties and is recommended. There are a lot of different versions of these seals. 

[Benz Dr.]

Hi Dr Benz

Thanks for your feedback !
Would you change the crankshaft screw , It seems mandatory for me...
[/quote

I never do. YMMV

[Figoulu]

The best I could do 😅

The seal is slightly damaged around its edges, but I think it should be fine…

[Mike Hughes]

That looks great and catching that it didn't look right was a good call. 

Looking at where the lip seal meets the crank, I suspect that you would likely have found a disappointingly large pool of oil under the front of your freshly rebuilt engine after your first drive. As discovered, the lip seal was likely sealing against air!

Even an experienced person can make a mistake and not catch it by failing to double-check completion of an assembly step.  Hopefully your rebuilder learned a lesson and will double check his work with more rigor in future.

Cheers!

[Figoulu]

Thanks Mike for your positive comment

Over the years, I’ve learned to stay calm in situations like this when dealing with mechanics. I wouldn’t say this was some small, hidden issue that no one could have noticed... At the very least, if you’re getting paid, you should deliver a complete and quality-checked job. But as I said, I stay calm—otherwise, nothing good would come out of the situation.

He’s lucky I’m not easily worried by issues like this and could manage, but a rookie would have every reason to be confused and disappointed. Anyway, I’ve learned...

[66andBlue]

One thing to point out regarding seal material. The brown ones are most likely to be a high temperature material similar to the trade name Viton. The black seal will most likely be a Nitrile. The Viton will have better properties and is recommended. There are a lot of different versions of these seals. 

Where can I buy this Viton seal for my 280SL? Vendor name? Part number?
Thanks for any pointers.

[WRe]

Hello Alfred,
if I see it correctly, the seal used is from Corteco. Material: FPM (fluoride rubber)/ACM (polyacrylate rubber)
- https://www.ecatcorteco.com/web/corteco/en/PKW/74/538/722/applicationSearch.xhtml?result=1756624683939&showResult=1
- https://www.daparto.de/Teilenummernsuche/Corteco/20033412b?modelId=9310a012

An alternative would be on from Elring. Material: FPM (fluoride rubber)
- https://web.tecalliance.net/elring/qa/parts/cars/part/10/284.785/detail?targetId=722&typeNumber=722#@brc/brands:Auto;targetType:cars;skipHistory:true;suppressAutoSelection:true/models:MERCEDES-BENZ;targetType:cars;manufacturerId:74;skipHistory:true;suppressAutoSelection:true/cars:PAGODE%2520(W113);targetType:cars;manufacturerId:74;modelId:538;skipHistory:true;suppressAutoSelection:true/assem:280%2520SL%2520(113.044);targetType:cars;targetId:722;typeNumber:722/lnkparts:Dichtungen;targetType:cars;assemblyGroupId:100223;targetId:722;typeNumber:722/assignedPartDetail:284.785;targetType:cars;brandId:10;articleNo:284.785;targetId:722;typeNumber:722
- https://www.daparto.de/Teilenummernsuche/Elring/284785?modelId=9310a012

Best regards
...Wolfgang

[Figoulu]

Where can I buy this Viton seal for my 280SL? Vendor name? Part number?
Thanks for any pointers.

I have no idea as the mechanic did the overhaul himself…
Does niemoller or Mercedes is out of stock ? I believe for those who can get the spec, that it’s available out of the official branded dealer as Mercedes nor niemoller make their seals.

[Figoulu]

So… back to the garage
Today as everything is back together I was planning to begin the tuning of the air/ fuel mixture basing my work upon this very useful forum of course…

As I was planning to have the engine ready at its running temperature an oil leak appeared…

Hard to see as is but probably between the engine and the gearbox…
What would you envisage ?
If this is the same sort of seal as the last one I would probably have to remove engine/ gearbox together? (Once again)😁😁

Thanks for your feedback 👍

[Cees Klumper]

Ouch, if it's engine and not transmission oil and it's not coming from the top somewhere, I'm afraid it's the rear main seal. If so, would need to separate the gearbox from the engine, which can stay in the car AFAIK.