heater levers replacement

[yves]

Hi pagodas lovers, i'll replace the heater levers which seem broken…! the left ones are still functonal but the right ones are out of their rotation axis. After reading the manual….it seems to be a tricky job...
The levers are "american" style with soft material which can be bended Under pressure.



I have had a look above the heater valve in the bulkhead, it seems  unmovable, but i Don't want to put too much stress on it before dismantling the levers. I have only heard a little hiss when i tried to move it 


 I sprayed some WD40 on the valve and will start  the dismantling tomorow with some ….concern 
I went in the technical manual but i have seen only how to repair the spring of the door … which is BTW smart 

[thelews]

After removing the ball socket from the valve, you should try rotating it with a pliers of some sort.  It is simply a valve with an o-ring.  It's probably stuck from corrosion.  Gentle coaxing should free it.

You then need to remove the bits from the top of the valve.  The top screw of a spark plug will screw into the hole in the valve and give you a nice grip to hold and pull the valve with.  You may need to push down before you can pull up and out.  Be sure not to lose the valve down the hole. Note the position of the valve for re-installation, but you can also figure it out when you reinstall.

Once out, remove the O-ring and give a good cleaning of the valve to jewelry shiny brass (I put a screw in the end and spun it in a drill while holding it in fine steel wool and then Mother's polish).  Then, replace the O-ring with the proper size (metric, I forget the ID/OD dimension).  Stuff a bit of paper towel (so crud and steel wool bits don't drop in the fluid) in the valve body in the car and clean that out too.  I lubed with a little Vaseline (very little) and then reinstall (put it back on the spark plug and don't drop it in).  Reconnect the ball socket and it should work freely.

[Jonny B]

Here is the link to the technical manual where you can see what is required for this process. There are some excellent tips in there about how to remove the valve internals, etc.

https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/HeaterControlValve

Here is the link for the removal replacement of the heater levers.
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/ReplaceHeaterLeavers

Be sure to keep the old plastic pieces inside. There are some differences in the current reproductions that have to be "adjusted" (read that as that you will need to grind off one of the nibs on the plastic internals) to get them to fit and not bind. It was recently addressed on a forum link. Will try to find that and post.
Here is one post on the topic:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=21878.msg155948#msg155948

You can also use the main search function (the one in the string next to the "Home" button) it will search the entire forum

I use "heater lever" without quotes and got a number of hits. You can use the quote marks in the search function to search only on the whole phrase.

It is a real pain to do. Highly recommend you take out the seats and remove the steering wheel (relatively easy to do those). It will at least give you some space to lay down on.

[thelews]

The towels around the valve to catch bits is a great idea, one I found here and forgot to mention.

[yves]

Thank's all of you for your smart advices...   I'll follow them, i have just moved in again the steering Wheel and seat after refurbishing the steering box !
Not too hard ….!
heater lever s are another challenge….

[ja17]

Try a full cooling system flush before dis-assembling the heater water valve. Drain all coolant first. Follow the directions and add the system flush. Run the  engine to full temperature with the flush in the system and the exercise the water valve. Most often the flush will clean the water valve and it will function freely again. Rinse and replenish the coolant. It is amazing how well this works!

[thelews]

Just be aware that a chemical flush can cause a marginal water pump to go.  At least that was my experience.  After the flush mine was leaking badly.  Was probably long overdue and I changed it. All is well now in a clean system using No-Rosion.

[yves]

What is "rosion" ?

[ejboyd5]

You then need to remove the bits from the top of the valve.  The top screw of a spark plug will screw into the hole in the valve and give you a nice grip to hold and pull the valve with.  You may need to push down before you can pull up and out.  Be sure not to lose the valve down the hole. Note the position of the valve for re-installation, but you can also figure it out when you reinstall.

As mentioned, the 4mm threaded end of a spark plug makes a good handle for removing the heater valve core.  For historical reference, I'm attaching a picture of the original M-B tool # 100 589 023 300 used for this task.  Good luck finding one.

[JamesL]

Yves
I think it's part of a product name
http://www.no-rosion.com/norosioncoolant.htm

No Erosion <> NoRosion

[thelews]

Good information on this page.  I have gone to just RO water and NoRosion in my cars.  This is not an option if your car will see below freezing temperatures which mine don't.

http://www.no-rosion.com/tech_coolant.htm

[PeterW113]

I have done this job.

Be very careful not to drop anything. I used a rag to block the gaps around the valve as it’s tricky to remove and replace the components.

Peter

[Benz Dr.]

Good information on this page.  I have gone to just RO water and NoRosion in my cars.  This is not an option if your car will see below freezing temperatures which mine don't.

http://www.no-rosion.com/tech_coolant.htm

You live in an area that sees freezing, don't you? 

[yves]

Yes but theese last 3 years  no freeze …..! and it's not a good news , it's too hot now on  the atlantic shore where i live.

[thelews]

You live in an area that sees freezing, don't you?

Yes.

Come cold (and salt on the roads) I'm fortunate to have the cars in a 68 degree, 50% humidity environment until it warms up and rains to clean the roads.

[yves]

Well i am on the job…. First  I must  take off the glove box… ok it's the job N° 68-01 …..  but where can i see  that ? i have the BBB  but no ref about 68-01 ! Is it another book i need ?
Sorry for the odd  question  which must have an obvious answer ? i have read the technical manual about the glove box and seen how to repair the door spring which is smart BTW

[Benz Dr.]

Yes.

Come cold (and salt on the roads) I'm fortunate to have the cars in a 68 degree, 50% humidity environment until it warms up and rains to clean the roads.

I'm not sure I would rely on a heated garage for any reason - power goes out and things go wrong.

As long as this material you use has an anti corrosion and a water pump lubricant you should be OK. I would NOT, in any event, use straight water in any cooling system.

[thelews]

I'm not sure I would rely on a heated garage for any reason - power goes out and things go wrong.

As long as this material you use has an anti corrosion and a water pump lubricant you should be OK. I would NOT, in any event, use straight water in any cooling system.

Since this 30x60 "garage" is attached to my house, has finished, insulated walls and ceiling, has a full radiant heated floor and radiant heated ceiling above half of it, it would take a very, very, long time for the temperature to drop below freezing, if it were even possible for it to get there (three walls are below grade), should the power go out, in which case there is an automatic whole house generator that runs on natural gas, or the boiler fail.  Attached is the one time it was below freezing, when it was being built!

I'm more than comfortable with the no-rosion product.  Have communicated with the owner of the company numerous times, a real car enthusiast if I ever met one.  His company provides cooling technology and product for machinery that makes our cars look like kiddie toys. 

One dramatic benefit I've noticed since switching over is the electrolysis activity (corrosion) measured in the coolant.  Before changing over I was getting readings around 250 - 350 millivolts.  100 or less is considered no activity, 395 is the upper limit before concern.  Since changing I'm getting readings of 20-40 millivolts...essentially nothing.  The other big benefit for me, with water and no glycol antifreeze, is the coolant can be disposed of down the drain as opposed to being taken to a disposal facility.

[Benz Dr.]

That's interesting. What about water pump lubricant?

[yves]

I had some time this evening and began the job :

I made a special tool for the blower switch bezel !




The glove box is not so difficult to take off….I hope i'll the same for refitting !





Tomorrow i'll take out the radio if i can unscrew the bolt at it's rear face…. !

[thelews]

That's interesting. What about water pump lubricant?

It's all there.  Like I said, this guy is a car nut.  Felt he could improve on coolant technology for cars based on his industrial research and technology.  I believe, ships, trains, large industrial machinery all have pumps too and need lubrication.

From the website.  Poke around a bit.

No-Rosion Cooling System Corrosion Inhibitor

Originally developed for high-end boilers and cooling towers in the field of industrial water treatment, No-Rosion is a powerful, industrial-grade automotive cooling system corrosion inhibitor that stabilizes coolant pH, and protects all six metals most commonly found in cooling systems from corrosion and electrolysis - including aluminum.

Dissolved oxygen in coolant functions as a catalyst that drives oxidation of metals in a cooling system. No-Rosion contains oxygen scavengers that chemically remove dissolved oxygen from coolant, thus preventing this type of damage.

Polymer dispersants in No-Rosion prevent hardness in water, and inhibitors in antifreeze, from dropping out of solution to form gels. These insoluble materials adhere to surfaces inside a cooling system to form scales and deposits that cause overheating. These polymers also provide lubricity to the water pumps. For this reason, it is not necessary to use a water pump lubricant when No-Rosion is in a cooling system.

For heavy duty/diesel applications, No-Rosion contains nitrite, which prevents cavitation erosion of wet-sleeve cylinder liners.   

Proper use of No-Rosion extends coolant life to five years. This reduces the frequency of draining and flushing toxic used coolant. Not only does this save you time and money, it also protects the environment.

[Benz Dr.]

So you use this stuff in place of antifreeze with treated water. I guess you could use it with coolant if you wanted to because all of my equipment is stored inside but nothing is heated in the winter. I already use water wetter in some of my stuff - I wonder if it's compatible with the stuff you use.

 

[thelews]

Dan, I don't know if you read the technical page on their website I posted earlier.  Here it is again. https://norosion.com/tech_coolant.htm  I think many folks use it with antifreeze, if I recall, the recommendation is to use as little antifreeze as possible to achieve the freeze protection you need.  It is made to be used with antifreeze or reverse osmosis water.

When communicating with the owner, the subject of water wetter came up. He said, Google water wetter brown sludge.  Some pretty scary stuff.  https://www.google.com/search?q=water+wetter+brown+slime&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS769US769&oq=water+w&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0j35i39j69i60l3.5328j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I had a fair amount of communication with the owner, being circumspect of some "new, improved" coolant technology.  I came to learn it's not new, not improved, it's been his business for 30 years and he, as a car buff, offers his technology and research in a product for car guys.  Their website is their only "advertising."  It's all word of mouth and not his bread and butter or even significant part of his business.

Coolant, like oil, like zddp, like gas is one of those areas where everyone has an a**hole, I mean opinion.  I landed here because the owner was so forthcoming with information, testing data, research and willingness to answer my doubt.  I just figured if companies with engines in the hundreds of thousands and millions of dollars are relying on him for coolant technology, then like Farmers Insurance, he may know a thing or two.  So far, my experience has been good.

I did flush my systems with their flush product too,  before filling with RO water and norosion.  That's when I lost the water pump on the 113, but no issue with my two other vintage cars with coolant.

[jeffc280sl]

Yves,

looks like your on your way.  once i got that far i went all in.  blower motor, gauges, heater core.  how far do you plan to go?

[yves]

Hi Jeff i Don't know now how far i'll go… Sure i have the levers to replace and i must take out the speed counter for adjustment  because  the ratio of the rear axle has been modified. I'll have certainly a look on the heater flap and rod and heater valve .