Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Electrical and Instruments => Topic started by: yves on November 11, 2019, 16:01:44
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Hi pagodas lovers, i'll replace the heater levers which seem broken…! the left ones are still functonal but the right ones are out of their rotation axis. After reading the manual….it seems to be a tricky job... ::)
The levers are "american" style with soft material which can be bended Under pressure.
(https://i.goopics.net/800/vGVm7.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/vGVm7)
I have had a look above the heater valve in the bulkhead, it seems unmovable, but i Don't want to put too much stress on it before dismantling the levers. I have only heard a little hiss when i tried to move it ???
(https://i.goopics.net/800/RajkO.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/RajkO)
I sprayed some WD40 on the valve and will start the dismantling tomorow with some ….concern ::)
I went in the technical manual but i have seen only how to repair the spring of the door … which is BTW smart ;)
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After removing the ball socket from the valve, you should try rotating it with a pliers of some sort. It is simply a valve with an o-ring. It's probably stuck from corrosion. Gentle coaxing should free it.
You then need to remove the bits from the top of the valve. The top screw of a spark plug will screw into the hole in the valve and give you a nice grip to hold and pull the valve with. You may need to push down before you can pull up and out. Be sure not to lose the valve down the hole. Note the position of the valve for re-installation, but you can also figure it out when you reinstall.
Once out, remove the O-ring and give a good cleaning of the valve to jewelry shiny brass (I put a screw in the end and spun it in a drill while holding it in fine steel wool and then Mother's polish). Then, replace the O-ring with the proper size (metric, I forget the ID/OD dimension). Stuff a bit of paper towel (so crud and steel wool bits don't drop in the fluid) in the valve body in the car and clean that out too. I lubed with a little Vaseline (very little) and then reinstall (put it back on the spark plug and don't drop it in). Reconnect the ball socket and it should work freely.
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Here is the link to the technical manual where you can see what is required for this process. There are some excellent tips in there about how to remove the valve internals, etc.
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/HeaterControlValve
Here is the link for the removal replacement of the heater levers.
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/ReplaceHeaterLeavers
Be sure to keep the old plastic pieces inside. There are some differences in the current reproductions that have to be "adjusted" (read that as that you will need to grind off one of the nibs on the plastic internals) to get them to fit and not bind. It was recently addressed on a forum link. Will try to find that and post.
Here is one post on the topic:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=21878.msg155948#msg155948
You can also use the main search function (the one in the string next to the "Home" button) it will search the entire forum
I use "heater lever" without quotes and got a number of hits. You can use the quote marks in the search function to search only on the whole phrase.
It is a real pain to do. Highly recommend you take out the seats and remove the steering wheel (relatively easy to do those). It will at least give you some space to lay down on.
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The towels around the valve to catch bits is a great idea, one I found here and forgot to mention.
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Thank's all of you for your smart advices... ;) I'll follow them, i have just moved in again the steering Wheel and seat after refurbishing the steering box !
Not too hard ….!
heater lever s are another challenge…. :-\
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Try a full cooling system flush before dis-assembling the heater water valve. Drain all coolant first. Follow the directions and add the system flush. Run the engine to full temperature with the flush in the system and the exercise the water valve. Most often the flush will clean the water valve and it will function freely again. Rinse and replenish the coolant. It is amazing how well this works!
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Just be aware that a chemical flush can cause a marginal water pump to go. At least that was my experience. After the flush mine was leaking badly. Was probably long overdue and I changed it. All is well now in a clean system using No-Rosion.
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What is "rosion" ?
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You then need to remove the bits from the top of the valve. The top screw of a spark plug will screw into the hole in the valve and give you a nice grip to hold and pull the valve with. You may need to push down before you can pull up and out. Be sure not to lose the valve down the hole. Note the position of the valve for re-installation, but you can also figure it out when you reinstall.
As mentioned, the 4mm threaded end of a spark plug makes a good handle for removing the heater valve core. For historical reference, I'm attaching a picture of the original M-B tool # 100 589 023 300 used for this task. Good luck finding one.
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Yves
I think it's part of a product name
http://www.no-rosion.com/norosioncoolant.htm
No Erosion <> NoRosion :o
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Good information on this page. I have gone to just RO water and NoRosion in my cars. This is not an option if your car will see below freezing temperatures which mine don't.
http://www.no-rosion.com/tech_coolant.htm
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I have done this job.
Be very careful not to drop anything. I used a rag to block the gaps around the valve as it’s tricky to remove and replace the components.
Peter
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Good information on this page. I have gone to just RO water and NoRosion in my cars. This is not an option if your car will see below freezing temperatures which mine don't.
http://www.no-rosion.com/tech_coolant.htm
You live in an area that sees freezing, don't you?
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Yes but theese last 3 years no freeze …..! and it's not a good news , it's too hot now on the atlantic shore where i live.
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You live in an area that sees freezing, don't you?
Yes.
Come cold (and salt on the roads) I'm fortunate to have the cars in a 68 degree, 50% humidity environment until it warms up and rains to clean the roads.
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Well i am on the job…. First I must take off the glove box… ok it's the job N° 68-01 ….. but where can i see that ? i have the BBB but no ref about 68-01 ! Is it another book i need ?
Sorry for the odd question which must have an obvious answer ? i have read the technical manual about the glove box and seen how to repair the door spring which is smart BTW
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Yes.
Come cold (and salt on the roads) I'm fortunate to have the cars in a 68 degree, 50% humidity environment until it warms up and rains to clean the roads.
I'm not sure I would rely on a heated garage for any reason - power goes out and things go wrong.
As long as this material you use has an anti corrosion and a water pump lubricant you should be OK. I would NOT, in any event, use straight water in any cooling system.
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I'm not sure I would rely on a heated garage for any reason - power goes out and things go wrong.
As long as this material you use has an anti corrosion and a water pump lubricant you should be OK. I would NOT, in any event, use straight water in any cooling system.
Since this 30x60 "garage" is attached to my house, has finished, insulated walls and ceiling, has a full radiant heated floor and radiant heated ceiling above half of it, it would take a very, very, long time for the temperature to drop below freezing, if it were even possible for it to get there (three walls are below grade), should the power go out, in which case there is an automatic whole house generator that runs on natural gas, or the boiler fail. Attached is the one time it was below freezing, when it was being built!
I'm more than comfortable with the no-rosion product. Have communicated with the owner of the company numerous times, a real car enthusiast if I ever met one. His company provides cooling technology and product for machinery that makes our cars look like kiddie toys.
One dramatic benefit I've noticed since switching over is the electrolysis activity (corrosion) measured in the coolant. Before changing over I was getting readings around 250 - 350 millivolts. 100 or less is considered no activity, 395 is the upper limit before concern. Since changing I'm getting readings of 20-40 millivolts...essentially nothing. The other big benefit for me, with water and no glycol antifreeze, is the coolant can be disposed of down the drain as opposed to being taken to a disposal facility.
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That's interesting. What about water pump lubricant?
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I had some time this evening and began the job :
I made a special tool for the blower switch bezel !
(https://i.goopics.net/800/jbbYk.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/jbbYk)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/mbbwk.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/mbbwk)
The glove box is not so difficult to take off….I hope i'll the same for refitting !
(https://i.goopics.net/800/KNNDD.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/KNNDD)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/QVVm9.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/QVVm9)
Tomorrow i'll take out the radio if i can unscrew the bolt at it's rear face…. !
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That's interesting. What about water pump lubricant?
It's all there. Like I said, this guy is a car nut. Felt he could improve on coolant technology for cars based on his industrial research and technology. I believe, ships, trains, large industrial machinery all have pumps too and need lubrication.
From the website. Poke around a bit.
No-Rosion Cooling System Corrosion Inhibitor
Originally developed for high-end boilers and cooling towers in the field of industrial water treatment, No-Rosion is a powerful, industrial-grade automotive cooling system corrosion inhibitor that stabilizes coolant pH, and protects all six metals most commonly found in cooling systems from corrosion and electrolysis - including aluminum.
Dissolved oxygen in coolant functions as a catalyst that drives oxidation of metals in a cooling system. No-Rosion contains oxygen scavengers that chemically remove dissolved oxygen from coolant, thus preventing this type of damage.
Polymer dispersants in No-Rosion prevent hardness in water, and inhibitors in antifreeze, from dropping out of solution to form gels. These insoluble materials adhere to surfaces inside a cooling system to form scales and deposits that cause overheating. These polymers also provide lubricity to the water pumps. For this reason, it is not necessary to use a water pump lubricant when No-Rosion is in a cooling system.
For heavy duty/diesel applications, No-Rosion contains nitrite, which prevents cavitation erosion of wet-sleeve cylinder liners.
Proper use of No-Rosion extends coolant life to five years. This reduces the frequency of draining and flushing toxic used coolant. Not only does this save you time and money, it also protects the environment.
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So you use this stuff in place of antifreeze with treated water. I guess you could use it with coolant if you wanted to because all of my equipment is stored inside but nothing is heated in the winter. I already use water wetter in some of my stuff - I wonder if it's compatible with the stuff you use.
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Dan, I don't know if you read the technical page on their website I posted earlier. Here it is again. https://norosion.com/tech_coolant.htm I think many folks use it with antifreeze, if I recall, the recommendation is to use as little antifreeze as possible to achieve the freeze protection you need. It is made to be used with antifreeze or reverse osmosis water.
When communicating with the owner, the subject of water wetter came up. He said, Google water wetter brown sludge. Some pretty scary stuff. https://www.google.com/search?q=water+wetter+brown+slime&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS769US769&oq=water+w&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0j35i39j69i60l3.5328j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
I had a fair amount of communication with the owner, being circumspect of some "new, improved" coolant technology. I came to learn it's not new, not improved, it's been his business for 30 years and he, as a car buff, offers his technology and research in a product for car guys. Their website is their only "advertising." It's all word of mouth and not his bread and butter or even significant part of his business.
Coolant, like oil, like zddp, like gas is one of those areas where everyone has an a**hole, I mean opinion. I landed here because the owner was so forthcoming with information, testing data, research and willingness to answer my doubt. I just figured if companies with engines in the hundreds of thousands and millions of dollars are relying on him for coolant technology, then like Farmers Insurance, he may know a thing or two. So far, my experience has been good.
I did flush my systems with their flush product too, before filling with RO water and norosion. That's when I lost the water pump on the 113, but no issue with my two other vintage cars with coolant.
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Yves,
looks like your on your way. once i got that far i went all in. blower motor, gauges, heater core. how far do you plan to go?
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Hi Jeff i Don't know now how far i'll go… Sure i have the levers to replace and i must take out the speed counter for adjustment because the ratio of the rear axle has been modified. I'll have certainly a look on the heater flap and rod and heater valve . ::)
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Take pictures of everything - I know you'll do that for you. But if you have them, keep them and/or post them as you go, others coming behind you can use them as reference.
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I have worked hard with my fingers :'( and now the levers are on the Bench . It is a challenge to take them out almost for the left nut of the chrome strip .
I founded a broken plastic lever at it's junction with the black rubber and i broke also while i was dismantling the white transparent cylinder which hold the levers together ... >:(
It's the first time for me to have a look Inside the bulkhead…. and i saw some little problems… the "air ducts " are very damaged at their Bottom
Above the right one which seems to be easier to remove than the left one :-[ I think i must remove the tacho and wipers to replace the left one…?
(https://i.goopics.net/800/VGZ4v.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/VGZ4v)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/obyYG.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/obyYG)
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(https://i.goopics.net/800/8pj17.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/8pj17)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/OoQG2.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/OoQG2)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/0rjeO.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/0rjeO)
the car begins to be a mess !
(https://i.goopics.net/800/xXn2Q.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/xXn2Q)
I think i'll take out the tacho and rev counter so i could replace the left air duct, but i am quite afraid to begin that job…. :-\
I'll see tomorow ..!
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all of your issues sound familiar to me including the duct work. i think i used fiberglass to repair the duct and then painted surfaces flat black. you might as well keep going and clean and address everything you can from under the dash. my way of thinking is to do the work once because you don't want to tear it all apart again
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I agree that you can repair small portions of the defrost ducts but if the whole left side needs to be replaced you will find that dropping the steering column will make it a lot easier to work on. New ducts are made out of ABS plastic and they won't break or fall apart like the originals do.
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I have ordered new plastics ones …. I'll have a look to know the better way for the left one, i have not yet thought about taking he column away ! It seems agaijn a very hard and difficult work :-[
But i have not the technical manual to follow the process . The BBB is not the good book for !
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.../...you might as well keep going and clean and address everything you can from under the dash. my way of thinking is to do the work once because you don't want to tear it all apart again
I reason the same way when I take some area of the SL apart - then, the work and refurbish that has been performed will last, many decades, until I no longer can use the car...
You may want to clean out the fresh air ducts with their flaps also, see:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=28566.msg206707#msg206707 (https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=28566.msg206707#msg206707)
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Good idea Hans. I thought of refinishing the dask wood while in there. I took my dash wood to an auto paint shop and had them clear coat the wood. Has not peeled or weathered in 20 years. Recovering the dashboard if you have any cracks is also worthwhile
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I have tried to take out the tacho but i just touch with the end of two fingers the main cable and the knurled nut …! it seems impossible and i Wonder how i'll put it back ? i must do that to have acces for the left air duct .
the technical manual says to do that with an Under dash blind acces ……. i am sceptic ! is there another way ? i thought i'll be more easy if i take out the left chrome louvres but Don't understand also how to do that !
(https://i.goopics.net/800/raGDw.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/raGDw)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/1OykZ.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/1OykZ)
After 2 hours trying ….. i am quite disapointed :-\
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Your on the right path. There is a small round air duct going to the small vent, It slides off and out and will give you a little more room. Removing the chrome vent face will not help at all. Some like to remove the front seat so you can lay on your back and see where you are working.
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good luck. this is a pain in the a.. job. worth the effort though
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Thank you for your encouragement thoughts…..So i'll go this WE ! i hope i'll be able to put back every part... :-[
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I have made some progress this early rainy Saturday Morning….:
(https://i.goopics.net/800/mbVA5.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/mbVA5)
I am very precautionous (as say the members in the technical manual) with the capillary line. My wish is to take out completely the central cluster for a better acces to the speedo and for that i must unplug this line…. Can i pull gently and fermly :-\ the brass connector from the housing?
(https://i.goopics.net/800/1Oylg.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/1Oylg)
Waiting a advised respons ... ;) i deserved a good coffee ... :P
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i dont think the tube can be disconnected from the gauge. i think you need to pull the engine temperature sensor through the firewall. an alternative by Joe A is shown below
Disconnect the oil pressure line (10mm) if you have not yet. The wiring harness in the center can remain installed. Follow the wire harness to the plug under the dash and un-plug it there. Yes, as mentioned, after the small slotted, counter-sunk screw is removed (top center), the back portion of the center cluster can be removed. Next carefully remove the two slotted screws holding the engine temperature gauge in the cluster. Now the engine temperature gauge can be left in the dash and the center cluster can finally be removed ! Be careful handling the fragile capillary line going to the engine temperature gauge. You may want to have a speedometer person install the chrome ring it takes some care or you will ruin it or break the glass! I suspect that the professionals have a special tool.
Report to moderator Logged
Joe Alexander
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So now every thing is almost out…. i have now to pull out the two air ducts …
(https://i.goopics.net/800/yw43O.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/yw43O)
Is there Something i'd forget in my to.do.list:
-Replace the bulbs : BA6es ( 12V 4 W ) is there another reference for the cluster bulbs ? i have seen some smaller than the BA9ES but Don't know exactly the reference !
Spray some contact stuff on the dimmer switch
-Lubricate the rods with a syringue
lubricate the wipers mechanism
I have also an issue with the cigar lighter : the ceramic isolation is broken , is there a glue for ceramic ?
(https://i.goopics.net/800/xX4Y1.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/xX4Y1)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/ZdK1n.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/ZdK1n)
i have also an erratic speedo needle, is there Something to do on the cable from the bulkhead end ?
And i forget the primary Reason why i have taken the speedo out … it's for adjustment after modification of the axle ratio.
I tried to calculate the ratio by myself because there is no identification plate on it. I found 1.7 round for the drive shaft for 1 Wheel round …
That ratio seems odd , i calculate by jacking the car, block one Wheel up and turn the other one by 1 round and see 1.7 round on the drive shaft. Is it the right way ?
(https://i.goopics.net/800/ZdkPb.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/ZdkPb)
May be my questions are stupid for some of you but i must be sure of the conclusions
That's a lot of questions….Thank's in advance for your advised respons
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.../...taken the speedo out … it's for adjustment after modification of the axle ratio.
I tried to calculate the ratio by myself because there is no identification plate on it.../...
Here is a posting with some info about identifying the ratio for the speedometer installed in your Pagoda car.
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=26303.msg188344#msg188344 (https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=26303.msg188344#msg188344)
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When I was assembling the instruments in the dashboard, I used painters masking tape to protect dashboard paintwork.
You may want to replace ALL the bulbs in all of the instruments. Not just those that do not work.
I am sure others will come with advise what other maintenence things to do "once you are in there" - you are going through hell and maximizing benefits may be a good idea.
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I put these pics in another post. In the future it may be helpful to have the pics as part of this post
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My speedo counter will be back home soon after adjustment by a specialist. I have mesured 50 Wheel rounds and 31.7 drive shaft rounds , with a Wheel radius of 30 cm, he has adjusted the speedo by dipping in acid ! the spiral spring Inside the speedo which makes the spring more weak and test on the Bench . He done that four times and check at each test. ::)
Meanwhile i have replaced the speedo cable and tested it turning a Wheel , car jacked.
I replaced all the bulbs with leds ..
I have precautiously fixed the clear plastic of the levers with some "mastic glu" and threaded the worn holes with a heated screw very slowly. I have ordered 2 new very little led bulbs for the levers.
(https://i.goopics.net/800/qVODd.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/qVODd)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/abVDG.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/abVDG)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/VGL2y.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/VGL2y)
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Great progress being made. thanks for the update
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Before reassembling the electric parts of the dash i tested the central cluster and particularly the rhéostat. An Ohm test showed an issue of course…!
So i decided to fix it. When i opened the rhéostat after unwelding its connections , the surprise was to see a jump wire already welded ! so the problem is an old one !
Anyway i went further in the process and i took apart every parts which were all corroded.
As the technic manual says….. i dippped the copper parts in HCL Acid , and brushed them with a steel wool after water bath. The spring coil was very dirty and had the same process. It needed to be glued in its groove with époxy so it keep its shape in the groove.
I fitted all the refurbished parts together and test with the Ohm tester. Surprisingly it works ! ;D
(https://i.goopics.net/800/5Ro2y.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/5Ro2y)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/raQle.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/raQle)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/1ONde.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/1ONde)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/jbALe.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/jbALe)
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Test with the lever on one side
(https://i.goopics.net/800/LPElL.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/LPElL)
And with the lever turned in the other side:
(https://i.goopics.net/800/E9r57.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/E9r57)
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Awesome skill!
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great work!
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Since you are deep in there already, you might want to grease and check the window wipers assembly.
Mark
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Done…! ;) i have my speedo back in the garage... :) i'll put all that in the bulkhead when i'll have time…… after work :-\
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This WE is a rainy one , so it's good for working in the garage…!
I have fitted back the revs counter , central cluster and speedo… at their place ;) i have prepared the work by a better acces Under the dash :
clutch pedal pushed completely forward , the wiring loom tieted up, the counter holded in place with a foam pad, and a round piece of wood pushed forward with a long wood stick. a mirror is also very usefull .
With all that in place, i was able to go Under the dash and had a direct look for the rev counter ;) and it was quite "easy" to screw the counter on the dash.
(https://i.goopics.net/800/kQb4e.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/kQb4e)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/VZGy8.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/VZGy8)
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(https://i.goopics.net/800/qyVxn.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/qyVxn)
Job done , :)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/grbwJ.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/grbwJ)
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i like your ingenious tools. its still a pain in the a.. job. i'm sure you're happy its almost finished
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Next step.… refitting he heater levers….. first aim of that discussion ! ::)
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I forgot a important point about fitting the counter:
When you put back the counter in it's right position you have to screw the knurled bolt at it's rear side to fix it on the dash panel . But you can't insert your hand….! you have only some room to slide one finger and you must hold the bolt , put it at the end of the counter screw and turn it clocwise….!
To do that you must take the knob with the "groove" face toward the counter. Doing that the knob stay on the screw even not aligned exactly, but yoy can screw it slowly and cautiously avoiding falling down in the dash…
(https://i.goopics.net/800/bvvAp.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/bvvAp)
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Yves,
Just want to say that your detail descriptions and input are very much appreciated! Your annotated photos are great and wanted to thank you for taking the time.
Best,
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.../...But i have not the technical manual to follow the process . The BBB is not the good book for !
The dis-assembly of the W113 dash is well explained in section 83-2 in the 1959 edition of the BBB.
See it in this posting:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/admin/20031520835_Heaterlever1.jpg (https://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/admin/20031520835_Heaterlever1.jpg)
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Hi MBZSE is it really the 1959 BBB edition ? the 113 was not yet on the road ?
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Hi MBZSE is it really the 1959 BBB edition ? the 113 was not yet on the road ?
He he, well... The system operated by Mercedes (Daimler-Benz) was that the Workshop manual (BBB) binders were given out to the authorised M-B workshops only (not available to the public, like today). The literature was aimed at trained authorised workshop technicians.
There were then updates distributed from M-B, several each year. Pages were replaced in the binders at the dealerships. There were also Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) issued that informed about changes and gave tech tips.
A fully updated Workshop manual (BBB -68) was issued in 1968 (with the introduction of the "New generation" Compact series /8 cars)
Example page from 59 manual attached
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So if i am not misunderstanding, i'll need the 68 BBB (complete) has it been written in english ? ( or i have a dream... in French !)
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So if i am not misunderstanding, i'll need the 68 BBB (complete) has it been written in english ?
Yes, that is so. Available from M-B Classic, see Web:
https://www.mercedes-benz-classic-store.com/en/literature-media/technical-literature/workshop-manuals/ (https://www.mercedes-benz-classic-store.com/en/literature-media/technical-literature/workshop-manuals/)
I would suggest also to get yourself the "book of Tables" or "technical data book" as the web site has named it; most useful.
See our Tech Manual: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Documents/TechnicalData (https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Documents/TechnicalData)
In German, you can freely access the VdH website: https://mercedesclubs.de/anleitungen (https://mercedesclubs.de/anleitungen)
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I am not sure about the color of each heater lever, the top left must be blue, the top right is blue on my car but i think it is wrong . Anyay i have two red lever, i think they must be the two bottom and remain one " orange" one which must be the right top one....
Am i correct ?
(https://i.goopics.net/800/0rjeO.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/0rjeO)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/nyNRp.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/nyNRp)
I can reuse two red , one blue and one orange.... no more choice !
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Blue - upper left
Smoke/gray - upper right
Red - lower left
Red - lower right
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Thank's fatboy ;)
Ready to be fitted back in to the dash
(https://i.goopics.net/800/1j57E.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/1j57E)
bottom
(https://i.goopics.net/800/jjwQg.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/jjwQg)
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Is that a new orange lever you have in the upper right? The original color is gray but after market are orange.
If so, I think you have to grind down the "bosses" so the levers can fully move.
See this thread:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=21878.0
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Yes, if you have a dash speaker, you will need to grind down one of the bosses. Look at your old grey lever to see which one to grind. If you leave it long it will hit the speaker magnet when the grey lever is turned.
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:-[ :-[ i have read your last post a little too late, the levers were in the dash , fortunately i have not yet fitted them back completely ;)
thank you so much, for your advices ;)
I'll grind the bosses ASAP
PS: my repair on the left air flap is not strong enough….. it has broken again >:( so i'll order a new one tomorow …..
amazingly , i keep a good mood ;D
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:-[ :-[ i have read your last post a little too late, the levers were in the dash , fortunately i have not yet fitted them back completely ;)
thank you so much, for your advices ;)
I'll grind the bosses ASAP
PS: my repair on the left air flap is not strong enough….. it has broken again >:( so i'll order a new one tomorow …..
amazingly , i keep a good mood ;D
Stay in that good mood. Ability and skill is important but attitude and patience will always see you through to the end. Good job young man!
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young man , young man , humm... ! ::)
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I coud'nt go to bed before modify the lever... so :
grinding the plastic:
(https://i.goopics.net/800/pWodq.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/pWodq)
But screwing many times in that old plastic made a hole instead of a thread..... By chance after reading some post here i have now some Bondic on the bench...
(https://i.goopics.net/800/vag8o.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/vag8o)
After 3 tests it's fine but you need to use some sand paper on the surface before applying Bondic
(https://i.goopics.net/800/7jK4r.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/7jK4r)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/RZerY.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/RZerY)
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Nicely write up of the procedure. I saw a smoke gray lever on eBay recently and another listing where the seller was offering the 4 levers without the rubber components. When I did mine, I removed the tiny rivets and swapped the rubber from the new orange lever and installed it on the old smoke gray.
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Yes, I have been re-mounting new rubber on the old acrylic plastic for years. In this way the colors stay original.
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Here is the post by Tyler describing how he did it when he did mine.
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=25935.0
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I make some progress : i have fitted back the levers in the dash…. :P i had some issue with the tension on the cable rods which prevent to adjust the levers against the dash panel .
(https://i.goopics.net/800/VZAa8.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/VZAa8)
I have adjusted after some trys the clips which hold the cables in the bulkhead
(https://i.goopics.net/800/3KgAJ.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/3KgAJ)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/nykdQ.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/nykdQ)
Then the levers could be in contact with the dash panel without tension. The great challenge was to put the left nut behind the left chrome part…. :'(
I don't understand why the bolt is so close to the levers..... I succeded with the end of my right index under the levers and the left one above through the speaker aperture.... :o The two other screws were a children game
(https://i.goopics.net/800/av19y.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/av19y)
Before fitting the chrome, i have clened them on a "wood bench " with hole , so i could press and brush without any danger for the rear screw and the thin metal middle blade
(https://i.goopics.net/800/9jY9q.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/9jY9q)
I have may be an odd question about fixing the dash board: It can be lifted on the left, but i have not taken out any bolt or screw ?? have i broken something ? i have not found a schema on the BBB about this dash board. A picture or schema will be appreciated...!
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If I remember correctly there should be a metal tab on the dash (centered below speaker grill) with a speed nut clipped to it. There should be a screw hole on the underside of the dash panel centered at the speaker. See pic. Another one above glove compartment.
Also a couple of screws on the back side close to the windshield and a hidden one under the covering on far right.
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You know what……! i am very happy it's Christmas and i have some nice gifts and the best one on the photo below:
(https://i.goopics.net/800/GLGW7.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/GLGW7)
(https://i.goopics.net/800/eyejW.jpg) (https://goopics.net/i/eyejW)
Thank's everyone who gave me good advices for the Job…. ;)
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very nice!
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Hello, I read your post today about using a spark plug to screw into the top of the heater core valve. You saved my day with this wonderful advice and I want to thank you ever so much! Cheers, Bill
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;) Y're welcome !!! but i took this trick from someone in the forum....!
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Just an update for the heater levers ....... ;)
I have refurbished my heater core and needed to dismantle the levers for an easier acces... a second time after 2019! :-[
But since i have bought a very useful tool : it's a little ratchet wrench or spanner ( i don't know the specific name of it ) whose handle turns on itself and screw or unscrew . This wrench associated with a flexible extender ( not too long) allow screwing the left nut of the heaterlevers device on the dash :