Author Topic: Question about Soft top (Read 12471 times)

Skyline-GTR · « **on:** February 05, 2008, 21:04:01 »

hi every member in this fourm
I have tired to open the soft top
I think there os something catch the spft top to open I don't know how to open it I remove the hardtop and usually used soft top but before rwo weeks I can't return the soft top in side
I think there the hand which come n the end of driver chair maybe not working

sorry but my english is not very good ....!

pagoden · « **Reply #1 on:** February 06, 2008, 06:28:18 »

Hi back to you from one who also has little experience with these fine cars. One thing I did learn early on is that you must raise the entire top from its storage place all together in one movement. That is, if you raise only the larger, all-cloth area of the top and then go back to try to raise the rear-most part (which contains the plastic window) you will have great trouble; that part just will not come up out of there using that method. [I watched the Previous Owner ("PO") of my car try it the wrong way for 20 minutes or so. He even damaged the top's fabric with his efforts. I'm amazed that I still bought his car --- and that it's a pretty good one!] There is no special 'catch' or latch device that prevents the movement when it's done the wrong way. Rather, as a result of the entire mechanism having so many jobs to do in a small space, it must move in certain ways. I discovered that if you're watching closely as the whole thing comes up out of its storage place, that it moves 3-4 centimeters to the rear just as it begins to rise. This may not be the cause of all your problems but it is the one I know something about. Fold up all of the top together as if closing a book and lower or raise it all as one. I'm sure there are others here who will provide more insight, from which we will both learn. [and I too have many occasions on which I wish I were more versed in the language of others, including yours I am sorry to say; you are far better in mine than I am in yours.] Good luck.

Denny
1969 280SL 4spd

blue230sl · « **Reply #2 on:** February 06, 2008, 08:21:48 »

it sounds like you have the soft top up but now can not open the boot because the lever behind the driver seat is not opening the boot??

john
64 230sl euro 4 spd
89 190e 2.6

Peter van Es · « **Reply #3 on:** February 06, 2008, 17:24:00 »

Hi,

I'll point you to my own website, only because I've not put this on the Technical Manual just yet...

Have a look here for what I think is your solution:

http://bali.esweb.nl/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=39

Peter

1970 280SL. Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual.

hauser · « **Reply #4 on:** February 06, 2008, 18:53:48 »

OT

Peter

I looked at pics of your car and was wondering what type and size tires you are running?

1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.

Peter van Es · « **Reply #5 on:** February 12, 2008, 08:26:48 »

quote:
Originally posted by hauser

I looked at pics of your car and was wondering what type and size tires you are running?

Have Vredesteijn Snowtrac wintertires (on recent winter pictures andrally pictures) 195/70R14. In summer I run Bridgestone SF-373 with the correct rub-strip, same size as winter tires.

Peter

1970 280SL. Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual.

dsayars · « **Reply #6 on:** April 03, 2008, 15:52:42 »

This usually happens because the nut holding hand releasing lever in place becomes loose, so the lever becomes disengaged.

You need to release three latches, the one in the center that holds the top down and the two on the sides that hold the top cover down.

There's a hole in the center rear of the trunk where you can reach the center latch. Put your finger through the hole and you can feel the bottom of the latch just above the hole. You need to move it to the right. Sometimes you can do this with your finger. This is probably easier to do if you have somebody push down on the rear of the top (the bow) to release the spring tension.

When the center latch is released, raise the bow to the vertical and click it into place. Now you can get to the side latches holding down the cover from above. Releasing these side latches is like releasing the center latch. You have to get a finger or a screwdriver underneath and push the bottom part of the latch back (toward the rear of the car).

The first thing to do when you have everything open is to fix the problem so it won't happen again. As I said, usually it is the nut that holds on the hand release lever, because it didn't have a lock washer. Make sure it has a lock washer this time.

The hardest part about dong this is that you can't see the mechanism inside when you're trying to release the latches. None of the manuals I know of have any pictures, either. I'm going to take some pictures over the few days and post them, because this is a fairly common problem.

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J. Huber · « **Reply #7 on:** April 08, 2008, 15:16:37 »

Can anyone tell me if a new top (say, from GAHH) should have the 2 thin strap bands That traverse inside front to back? Or would these need to be purchased separately?

Also, on my car, the large rear bow is covered in a beige felt. Would that also come with, be separate, or what? Thanks...

James
63 230SL

jameshoward · « **Reply #8 on:** April 11, 2008, 15:01:15 »

James,

I have recently put a new roof on my car. (I have documented the whole labourious process with a million photos for the Wiki but have only written half the article - if you're about to do the same then tell me and I'll make a last desperate push).

I researched soft tops in Germany. All of them came with the 2 straps you mention. Fitting them properly is pretty key by the way. I don't know about the supplier you mention but all good suppliers over here provide the straps and the 2 tension wires with the roof.

I do not recognise the presence of felt anywhere on the back bow. Whilst I know my previous soft top was not original (Calglas or something like that) the amount of old glue suggests that no one ever did anything to the front or rear bows except add more glue. The rear bow was just plain metal; the front bow had tan vinyl.

If felt was original, I'd be very interested to know as I'd like to try to get my car back to where it once was.

I'll follow this thread with interest as no doubt the detail ninjas will be all over it.

James

Douglas · « **Reply #9 on:** April 11, 2008, 15:06:53 »

James has a really early soft top, so it has the padded crossmember with chrome trim tacked on top, similar to a W111 Cabriolet or Porsche 356 Cabriolet.

(In fact, this is one of the ways that the early 230 SL had the most bling of all Pagodas!)

Douglas Kim
New York
USA

J. Huber · « **Reply #10 on:** April 11, 2008, 17:31:00 »

quote:
Originally posted by jameshoward

James,

... if you're about to do the same then tell me and I'll make a last desperate push.

James

Hi James. Well, yes a new top is imminent! (this Tues.). But no real need to rush the wiki... (is that redundant in some way?).

I decided to do it "the old fashioned way" -- I am paying to have it installed! I went with the GAHH -- so chances seem good that the straps are included. I was a little worried there. As for felt, Douglas is correct -- only early cars had it. I will give it a sponge bath and make sure top guy doesn't mess with it too much. I'll keep ya all posted!

James
63 230SL

J. Huber · « **Reply #11 on:** April 15, 2008, 11:07:46 »

Well, the GAHH did not come with the straps nor the tension wires. I find that troubling. The upholstery guy will try and make some or use my old ones. What is doubly frustrating is I e-mailed GAHH asking this -- no response. That was a week ago during which I could have rounded them up...

James
63 230SL

jameshoward · « **Reply #12 on:** April 15, 2008, 15:07:17 »

James,

I think that's pretty crap of GAHH. It's not like you don't need them. I would get them to send you the real things rather than get someone to cobble them together. It'll be worth it.

You could also take the old roof off yourself and clean up the frame. When I removed my old roof it was clear that previous firms had just slapped new glue on old glue and it was quite a mess. You wouldn't want to pay anyone to do this as I think it took me about 10 hours, but it was worth it.

JH

Douglas · « **Reply #13 on:** April 15, 2008, 15:12:00 »

James,

This may be an oversight. I would call them. Everything I've heard about GAHH is that it's a well-run family operation that is known for its customer service. e-mail sometimes slips between the cracks. Call them.

Douglas Kim
New York
USA

bpossel · « **Reply #14 on:** April 15, 2008, 17:30:14 »

James,

I called and talked to Gahh yesterday and received interior samples in the mail today. They over-nighted samples of carpet and interior, no cost!
They are all about customer service! Call them!
Bob

bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320

J. Huber · « **Reply #15 on:** April 15, 2008, 20:40:43 »

Well, I gave GAHH a call. Its true -- the strap bands are not included. They do have them at 16 dollars a yard -- and explained we would need about 2 and a third yards (I think she said). However, they "are rarely requested" and not included unless specified. Same for the tension wires. I think a mention of this on the GAHH page might be a nice gesture.

As for cleaning the frame, etc. That would have been nice but in my situation, since I basically farmed it out to an uphols. shop -- it is a drop-off and pick-up kind of deal. In some cases, a shop might welcome the customer in to do clean-up -- this was not one, I'm afraid.

Anyway, he called this afternoon - "the new top is on...) , and he mentioned "some extra" work he did to redo straps and cables (1 side was missing, one side broke? -- news to me actually)... Find out the details tomorrow.

James
63 230SL

J. Huber · « **Reply #16 on:** April 16, 2008, 11:27:12 »

Just to bring some closure to my hi-jacking of this thread... The new top is on and the patient is doing well. I can now say that in my opinion the GAHH top does look and fit first rate. My installer re-wrapped the old strap bands with spare remnants of the dobby backing. He also had to replace both tension cables and on one side re-fab the bolt/tensioning nut. So a little hidden cost there but at least its done.

He is recommending I keep the top up for at least a week. Since I enjoy looking at the top now, I can do that!

Here are a couple befores and afters:

James
63 230SL

Douglas · « **Reply #17 on:** April 16, 2008, 13:02:55 »

That looks like the proverbial million bucks, James. Those early tops really are the nicest.

Douglas Kim
New York
USA

jameshoward · « **Reply #18 on:** April 16, 2008, 14:57:55 »

James,

I agree with Douglas, it looks amazing. I did my own and, surprisingly, it's not quite up to scratch.

The guys in Germany (probably a bit old school) recommended keeping the top up for 12 days. (Not 2 weeks, 12 days. It is Germany afterall).

I look forward to reading about cut knuckles, broken fingers and a bad back as you strive to keep the edges folded under to prevent curling when you stow the thing.

But it looks wonderful and I'm jealous.

JH

J. Huber · « **Reply #19 on:** April 16, 2008, 15:49:55 »

Thanks Guys. Well, fact is the guy said "a minimum" of a week...I think he recognized my need to welcome the warming weather and let me off easy!

As for folding -- I am scared to death! I have taken a number of precautions in the topcase well -- and will try to get those corners down. I had tried to curl them down with my old one -- but how do you do both sides at the same time? Any and all techniques for top stowing welcome!! Ya have a week.

James
63 230SL

hill · « **Reply #20 on:** April 16, 2008, 16:57:23 »

quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber

Thanks Guys. Well, fact is the guy said "a minimum" of a week...I think he recognized my need to welcome the warming weather and let me off easy!

As for folding -- I am scared to death! I have taken a number of precautions in the topcase well -- and will try to get those corners down. I had tried to curl them down with my old one -- but how do you do both sides at the same time? Any and all techniques for top stowing welcome!! Ya have a week.

James
63 230SL

If you are talking about the left and rear quarters behind the shelf. The same problem with the 107 occued. Spray the coners with water (the corners only) then place some weight on the corners and let dry. I used books you might be able to find a few.

Happy Benzing
Darryl, Hill
350 SL4.5 #60
1967 250sl "California"

jameshoward · « **Reply #21 on:** April 17, 2008, 00:29:00 »

James,

Along with the wires and two straps my softtop came with 2 A4 (letter size paper) sized pieces of plastic with a thickness of about 2mm. The seller strongly recommended placing these plartly into the box at the area where the hinge sits to avoid the top scuffing against the soft top box. You will have seen many similar ideas on this site with people using plastic files dividers, etc. It is a pain as it makes the job very hard to do with no one to help, but it does prevent the top rubbing. I also try to fold the corners under as the top is stowed. It hurts.

I do all the other things mentioned here also: I've relined the inside forward wall of the softtop box with new velvet so it's as it was when new; I put a piece of pipe insulating stuff (the lagging that goes around pipes) in the back window when folding (it's going to get velvet around it too) to prevent creasing in the window; and I've replaced the 2 rubber buffer things on the soft top lid to prevent my soft top frame locks making an unwanted appearance with the lid closed and top down. I think you might find the new top does not fold nearly as flat as the old one, but then your shop might have adjusted it very well. (I had to remove all my shims last week to get it to open and close properly - keep us posted on that first folding down!)

JH

Dahlknudsen · « **Reply #22 on:** June 01, 2009, 16:38:31 »

Same problem happened to me.

I have released the center latch from the round hole in the trunck. I have released the right latch by pulling the cable through the small holes in the right side.

Nothing happens when pulling the cable on the left side. So my left latch is still stuck.

I just cant really understand how i should get a srewdriver to release the left latch. What am i going press on, how to reach it, where to enter the screwdriver... etc...

Can anybody help me with this task?

Kind regards

Jakob Dahl

----

Quote from: dsayars on April 03, 2008, 15:52:42

When the center latch is released, raise the bow to the vertical and click it into place. Now you can get to the side latches holding down the cover from above. Releasing these side latches is like releasing the center latch. You have to get a finger or a screwdriver underneath and push the bottom part of the latch back (toward the rear of the car).

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News:

Author Topic: Question about Soft top (Read 12471 times)

Skyline-GTR

blue230sl

hauser

dsayars

Douglas

Douglas

bpossel

Douglas

hill

Dahlknudsen