Chrome removal question

[113gray]

Hi Pagoda People. Who among you has experience removing & replacing exterior chrome strips as a DIY project? Not including the grill or bumpers.The pieces in mind are the 2 curved pieces on the rear lid for the conv. top & upper & lower pieces on the exterior DS door. Also, some door sill pieces. Those on the outside lie on paint & I am concerned about removing these w/o messing up my paint job & don't plan to tackle the job until I know more than I do now (not much!). TIA,    -JP- '66 230SL (Euro)

[ted280sl]

James,
  When I had my car painted I removed and instaled all of the chrome except for the hardtop chrome. The curved pieces on the rear lid are held on by very tiny nuts which can be accessed from the underside of the convertible top compartment lid. The moldings on the dors are held on in two different manners. The molding strip with the rubber insert requires that the rubber fist be pulled out. After it is removed there should be screws exposed. Many of these vehicles have replaced the screws with pop rivets. The rivets can be drilled out. The other molding is held on with plastic hooks. The molding can be carefully grabbed underneath and pulled out to unhook from the plastic anchors. I would expect that the anchors wil break and would order replacements.
Regards,
Ted 1969 280SL w/ pop riveted moldings

[Raymond]

I am about to put all my chrome back on.  The lower door molding had the original screws and all of the heads were so rusty that they all had to be drilled out.  I am replacing them with stainless steel sheet metal screws.  A box of 100 is less than $5.  If your rubber insert is in good condition, you can re-use it. New material is available by the meter.

The upper molding, I just popped out and Ted is right, most of the 38 year old metal clips broke.  The replacements are not terribly expensive and readily available.  Kevin at Millers can give you the right count.

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

[Douglas]

While you have the trim off, don't forget to shoot waxoyl or some kind of body cavity wax/rust preventative in the holes that hold the trim in place on the fenders (wings) and quarter panels. Getting the area just behind the doors is particularly important.

Douglas Kim
New York, NY
280 SL #016220

[113gray]

These 3 responses to my question are very helpful & I thank you all.   -JP-

[Chad]

I believe almost all of the hooks broke on mine during removal, but of course I do have ten thumbs.

-CD-
1967 230SL, 113.042 10
1983 300TDT, 123.193

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by ted280sl

The curved pieces on the rear lid are held on by very tiny nuts which can be accessed from the underside of the convertible top compartment lid.

Yes.  There are also rubber washers there to prevent water or moisture from entering the soft top lid and the soft top compartment.  These tiny nuts, bolts, and washers are still available new through an MB dealer, I used Caliber when Tom Hanson was there.  There is also a strip of rubber running along the underside of this chrome on the soft top lid, it should be replaced if hard and brittle.  Dive right in on these parts.  It takes care and patience, but no special technical skills.

I can't speak of the other trim - never touched it.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[drewsalisbury]

Rodd - do you have a part number for the rubber strip that goes under the trim on the softtop lid?  I can see the grooves on the bottom side of the trim, no rubber.
Drew Salisbury

Drew Salisbury
1971 280sl auto

[113gray]

Thanks Rodd for the additional info. Wish I had known that you did this job when we were @ Blacklick. Did you have the chrome replated & if so, satisfied w/ the result? FWIW, my parts book shows what appears to be the rubber strip you mention, referred to as a "schiene" or mounting rail, PN 113 750 0035, priced 82 Euro.    -JP-

[Jonny B]

I took a further look at the parts book last night. The part previously mentioned (for the mounting rail)appears to be a solid piece. There is another part number 001 987 6125 "intermediate layer" that is listed as being able to be ordered by the meter. It is listed as an adjunct to the mounting rail items.

(The part number for the case seal 113 750 0177)

Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto

[113gray]

Jonny B- Thank you, very helpful as I had missed this entirely! This is not listed in one of my two parts books, but I found it in the big one. Even there, it doesn't show on the exploded diagram of group 75, so w/o your sharp eye I wouldn't have found it. Boy, it's great to have the kind of help our group has available. -JP-

[rwmastel]

Drew,
I would trust Jonny's part numbers.

JP,
I did not replace my chrome with new, just cleaned it really well and cleaned/polished/waxed the paint under it.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420