Rusty fuel tank .... what to do?

[Artkez]

I've installed a clear fuel filter inbetween my fuel tank and fuel pump and it seems to accumulate alot of rust particles in a short amount of time...
I know this has been discussed before, but I just wanted to see if there were more updated solutions and to ask specific questions.

Attached a shot of inside the tank


My options as I understand are:

A.) drop my current fuel tank, try to find a place to get it cleaned out and maybe coated, and then reinstall  (if you would go this route and have a place  in Los Angeles, id appreciate the recommendation)

B.) replace with a new mercedes tank about $1400 https://mbzparts.com/mercedes-fuel-tank-82l-gas-new-oe-w113-250sl-280sl/, which makes the car as true as possible, and I assume has the "flower pot" . if you have a cheaper version please send me a link

C.) try the dansk reproduction tank which people report as a good fit but I understand does not have the "flower pot". These guys seem to have it at a good price and are nearby https://vintageeuroparts.com/product/new-gas-tank-fits-merecedes-w113-230sl-250sl-280sl/
How important is the flower pot really?

at this point, I'm into this car for a lot, so I dont mind spending the extra thousand if its worth it. but i also dont want to waste money if the reproduction is just as good

What would you do?

[RobParkerMB]

I just replaced mine with the dansk, fairly cheap and fits fine. The quote I had for cleaning my old tank was about the same as the new one.

[mdsalemi]

I cannot speak to the existence of the flower pot in the Dansk tank, or if you would need to remove it from the old tank and install it or something else.

I do know that I had problems with the rusty fuel tank, which was pinpointed by a mechanic to me. It seemed a little fantastic at the time, perhaps 2002-2003, but he told me if I changed the tank. My problems would go away. I did and they did.

[Vander]

I have been using a JP Dansk tank for years, zero issues.

Do not get your tank cleaned and coated, it costs as much or more than the Dansk tank and will cause you running issues as the coating they use clogs the internal lines.

MBZ parts is charging too much for the tank! Mercedes-Benz LIST price is $1,200. Call the Classic Center when they open, part # 1134700701, see if they have any in stock. They may have sold through them.

[Jordan]

And I believe that the Classic Center will/may give you a discount if you are a member here or with the MB Club.  Make sure to ask.  They use to give discounts (10% at least) but I haven't purchased anything recently so I don't know if that is still the case. 

I installed a new MB tank back in 2010 for the same reason you are considering doing so.  Lots of rust in the tank.  With the discount it was just shy of $900 even back then.

[Pawel66]

Based on my, fairly limited, true, experience, option 1 is good for cars where new tank is just not available. Then you are bound to remove rust and coat, etc. If only any type of replacement tank is available (and here you have 2 options), I would just replace tank. What it boils down to is budget considerations.

Flower pot or not - Dansk works, I heard it from so many Members, no doubt there, I think.

[Artkez]

so what IS the point of the flower pot anyway?

Ill look into a cheaper version of the mercedes tank, but im leaning toward the dansk if it is such a successful product

[rwmastel]

Artkez,

May I suggest you make a signature line in your profile so readers always know which model car you have.  230 and 250/280 tanks are different size and electric fuel pumps are therefore in slightly different locations.  Get the proper tank to avoid fuel pump relocation.

[Lori]

Unfortunately, MB gas tank is no longer available - that is why prices are so high now for leftover stock.
https://classicparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-container-1134700701?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM%3D

When the gas level goes below the top of the swirl pot, the gas is drawn in from a hole in the bottom, ideally to minimize the stirring up of the sediment and then goes through the filter before going to the fuel pump.  At some point if there is too much sediment, some will get through as you see in the filter added between the tank and the pump.  If you keep the gas level > 1/2 a tank, you can minimize this. 

Have you removed the drain plug/filter from the bottom to inspect?  You may be able to clean it out yourself (you will have to remove the tank, but it is relatively simple).

Check around for prices on cleaning and lining the original.  Many have had it done without issue.  There are pictures from the tech manual you can show the shop so they can see what needs to be done.
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Fuel/Tank#Tank

Then the decision is yours to make.  The Dansk tank may start to show issue with sediment/rust before the MB tank but probably not for many years and since the price is 1/3 less...

[rwmastel]

When I bought my SL, the tank was rusty.  I drained it (left the filter out), removed the fuel level sender, then removed the tank.  I used a garden hose with powerful spray nozzle in each opening, including the little fuel in/out tubes, to blow off as muchlose rust as possible.  Poured out rusty water and repeated a couple times.  After drying for days, put it all back together and depended on the filters.  Worked for 10 years, then I had a valve fail and stopped driving it.