New Water Pump Installation

[su8pack1]

I'll be installing a new long water pump shortly when the parts arrive. I plan on removing the A/C compressor in the process. I have a used alternator only bracket to use. Dose anyone have a part number for the water pump belt which doesn't include the A/C? Also do I use a belt that goes around the   idler      pulley, or directly to the crank? One or two belts as the pump uses now with the a/c compressor? I've already removed the hood, and will be removing the radiator. The original water pump was getting loose and the fan was tapping on the shroud.                    Thanks

[Pawel66]

The part number for the v-belt is  A 006 997 32 92.

The v-belt is 9.5x935mm.

It is one belt going through water pump - crank shaft - alternator.

If you have power steering - there is another belt for power steering, crankshaft - power steering pump.

I think it is good to seal the threads of screws holding the alternator bracket to block, otherwise you may have oil leaks there.

[su8pack1]

Thanks, just ordered one.

[clunker]

Assuming you have the original large heavy AC bracket from M-B, be careful when you replace the top bolt that holds the fuel lines mount at the front of the head. This bolt should go a specific depth only into the head or it may interfere with the timing chain area in the head. See https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=7987. Either resize the bolt or perhaps put a spacer to replace the AC bracket depth.

[su8pack1]

Assuming you have the original large heavy AC bracket from M-B, be careful when you replace the top bolt that holds the fuel lines mount at the front of the head. This bolt should go a specific depth only into the head or it may interfere with the timing chain area in the head. See https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=7987. Either resize the bolt or perhaps put a spacer to replace the AC bracket depth.

Good info, I'll add some washers that equal the bracket when I put things back together. Thanks.

[Pawel66]

If we are talking about the bolt shown in the picture, you may just want to use dedicated part (although it is only about the length, I suppose), A 007 990 39 01.
It goes with the seal ring N 007603 012110, but I would also seal the threads.

I think it is this bolt that, if you make it too long, you will destroy the cylinder head, so I would check the depth of the hole vs. the length of the bolt three times before tightening.

I am writing about sealing the threads as I went through a comprehensive work of sealing the engine front (with a great help of ja17 and other Members here), where sealing the threads of everything that was protruding to crank case area where oil is was a major part.

[su8pack1]

This is turning out to be quite the job. I'm also removing all the a/c pieces, and the last 2 bolts on the bottom of the compressor to the a/c bracket can't be removed unless I pull the crankshaft pulley out of the way. I have a crankshaft seal ordered in case it was leaking, so I'll do that also. Any suggestions? As suggested above I'll be putting several washers on the top bracket bolt and using sealant on the threads.

[clunker]

I do not recall any bolts on the AC bracket that were inaccessible behind the crank pulley (or the harmonic balancer), the lower bolts were all on the side I think. This what mine looked like before I took it off some years ago.

I also include the diagram page from M-B install booklet which shows the bolts. Note the stabilizing arm to the right side motor mount (C in diagram), check that the remaining motor mount bolt is of correct length after you remove C as that bolt length is also critical (better still, change all three motor mounts while you are at it.)

[su8pack1]

I was able to get the 2 top bolts out that hold the compressor to the bracket, but the bottom two I can't even get a wrench on them. Even if I could get a wrench on the one bolt it would hit the balancer after a few turns The other one I can see, but no way to get a tool to it. All the bolts and nuts are off the bracket now. The side motor mount bolt came off and reseated ok. I replaced the motor mounts several years ago. In my picture the one bottom bolt is right at the balancer at the bottom of the bracket.

Just looking at my picture a little closer, and I noticed that slot which I think is for tightening the belt. I'll have to look at it tomorrow. Maybe I can back it off far enough to remove the bolts. If not I'm replacing the crank seal while I'm this far into it and the balancer will have to come off anyway.

[su8pack1]

Everything now out, just waiting for some parts.The bolts giving me the problem came out after I removed the pulley wheel and the wheel between the damper and pulley, first picture. Water pump going in tomorrow. I used a steering wheel puller on the damper and lots of Kroil.

[su8pack1]

Water pump & thermostat Today.

[mdsalemi]

When I changed MY water pump back some years ago, that begat a whole slew of things including a re-core of the radiator, powder coating some metal parts including fan shroud, fan, etc., changing all the hoses so affected and a few more items. I dropped everything below after lifting the front up very high. Based on recommendations from member Dave Gallon I believe I used a Laso water pump, and upon recommendation from Joe Alexander, bought a water pump gasket from Mercedes.

Now the Laso pump CAME with a water pump gasket. The OEM gasket from MB was something like $5 at the time. Wow, what a difference. The Laso gasket was like thin, cheap paper. The OEM gasket robust and substantial. No comparison. The only thing they had in common was shape.

Bottom line, don't use the gasket that comes with an aftermarket pump.

[zoegrlh]

I agree with Michael, replaced mine this past spring. MB gasket for sure.

[su8pack1]

Picked up my radiator from the radiator shop, and pulled out the crankshaft seal, and race today. Putting the new ones in tomorrow. Now just waiting for some new fan bolts and a Mercedes water pump gasket.

[su8pack1]

New crankshaft seal and race installed, and timing marks aligned at TDC. Ready for balancer wheel tomorrow.

[su8pack1]

Put the balancer back on, and that was not easy getting those pins lined up.

[su8pack1]

Slowly getting back together. This turned into quite the project.

[su8pack1]

All back together now. Add fluids tomorrow and start it up. If all is well time for the hood to go back on. The second picture is all the A/C under hood parts I removed.

[su8pack1]

Job finished. Now just to get the hood back on. But, I noticed a puddle at the back wheel when warming up. A pin hole in the metal fuel line just short of the rubber line that goes to the fuel pump. Oh well something else to do now.