Author Topic: Tapered Cotter Bolt  (Read 125 times)

Harry

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Tapered Cotter Bolt
« on: March 13, 2023, 17:13:17 »
Hello,

I am in the process of replacing the Clunk Bushing and while I had the rear end out of the car, I am also going to replace the split boot with a full boot.  To remove the Pivot shaft, there is a Tapered Cotter Bolt that has to be removed first.  And as the name suggests being a taper, it is a stubborn rascal to get out out.  I have moved the right axle to the extreme position to more directly access the threaded end of the bolt with a drift, and I have used a heat gun to try to make the casing release its grip just a bit.  But no success.  Are there others (surely) who have been through this arduous process and might have some helpful advice please?

Much appreciated,
Harry
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic

Ed Riefstahl

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Re: Tapered Cotter Bolt
« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2023, 01:01:08 »
Hi Harry,
Were you able to get the tapered bolt out?
Sorry for the delay in responding, wasn't paying attention to the forum for a couple days.

I responded to your question about heat.
Hope you got it out.

Regards,
Ed Riefstahl
Erie, PA

1966 230SL (Ms Magoo)
1970 280S (Miss Daisy)
1989 300SE (Majestic)
1999 BMW Z3 5 speed
1991 BMW 318I 5 Speed
1997 Toyota Paseo Convertible - Red 5 speed (have you ever seen one?)
1997 Ford Ranger (Step Side 54K)
2023 Mazda CX 5

Harry

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Re: Tapered Cotter Bolt
« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2023, 01:48:24 »
Thanks.  I was.  Stubborn little rascal though.
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic