250sl wanted for purchase

[itsryglo]

I am looking to purchase my first pagoda, ideally a 250sl. Prefer manual, but automatic is okay. I'm looking for a relatively turnkey daily driver. Mechanically sound and no rust is a must.

I am not a collector. Just a guy whose dream car has been a pagoda for some 20+ years.

If you're looking for a good home to enjoy your pagoda during the next stage of its journey, let's talk. My budget is $60K.

[Jonny B]

You can try a contact with Roy Spencer (Burlingame) - https://mercedesheritage.com
He does not show any 250 SLs inventory right now, but he may have some leads.

There is also - https://www.tobinmotorworks.com  Dave shows one 280 SL in inventory at $159K

Or Brian Peters at www.motoringinvestments.com He shows one 250 SL but at $124K - he also has a good buyer's guide on his website.

You can keep an eye on Bring a Trailer they have sold some cars in the price range you state in the past year.

$60K for what you ask is going to be difficult.

Any reason why you are looking for a 250 SL?

[mdsalemi]

Yes, as JonnyB says, $60K is going to be tough, particularly when you are narrowing a focus to a 250 and standard.
Periodically there are some daily drivers in that price range listed in The Star magazine from the MBCA.
The other limit you impose, "turnkey" is a tough one. A $60K car regardless of how presented, is surely going to need something. If it needs anything, it's certainly not turnkey.
You really should go to some gatherings and events, learn more about the cars from the inside out, talk to owners (you've started it well by coming here, but there's no substitute for seeing the cars in person) and get a better idea if this is where you want to spend your $60K.

[itsryglo]

Thank you, JonnyB and mdsalemi, for the contacts and tips.

I've been following BaT and have learned quite a bit reading the comments there, watching videos on YouTube, and reading posts on this forum. My observation after having watched many of their auctions (and even participating) is that the prices on BaT are wildly volatile and unpredictable, especially in the last 18 months during the Covid era. My take is the winning bid price is far more about the bidder's emotional response to a particular car versus an objective and predictable market value based on the condition of the vehicle.

I've been fortunate to have seen in person & test-driven a 230sl automatic, 250sl manual, and 280sl automatic that were reasonably local to me. They all made me smile, but the 250 was my favorite of the three. 

I know the 250sl has the lowest production run, thereby making it less common. Nonetheless, my rationale for preferring the 250sl is a few things: I like that it has 4 disc brakes (vs the 230sl's drum brakes). As a bonus, I also like that it retains some of the more elegant (in my opinion) interior fit-and-finish of the 230sl. The 280sl in the condition I'm seeking are consistently out of reach cost-wise as they tend to run $20-30K (or higher) more than the 230/250sl. Net-net, based on the research I've done, the 250sl seems to be the sweet spot for me from a cost & features perspective.

Curious what you think is a more realistic budget for what I'm looking for, and what I should prepare for ongoing annual maintenance costs. The different owners of the 3 sl's I mentioned above said to expect a couple hundred dollars a year on average for basic maintenance and an occasional $1-2k or so if something needs repaired. Otherwise they said the cars are fairly solid & reliable, especially if driven regularly (provided you don't start out with one that already has mechanical or rust issues).

[Jonny B]

First, I would take the comments on Bring a Trailer with a block or two of salt. You are much better off, in my opinion, to use the search function on this site to help with what to look for.

For ongoing maintenance, that is difficult to fully pin down. Would you be doing some items yourself (oil change, chassis lube, brake bleed, rad flush, shocks, engine tune up and other routine items)? Do you have a mechanic you can trust for the bigger things, engine work, head repair, chassis rubber. etc. And a big wild card on any bodywork.

I would be surprised to get by on $200 to 300 a year, especially in the first years of ownership. I would fully agree that the cars are fairly reliable once sorted, and if they are driven regularly. They do not like to sit.

[lreppond]

Let me give you my perspective as someone who has zero skills for working on cars.  You are buying a used car in excess of 50 years old.  I think you might find one in your price point but it certainly won’t be turnkey.  People know the low production numbers of this car and one with three pedals sells for a premium. 

As an unskilled owner, I rely on a great mechanic for repair/maintenance. Although he’s top notch and charges the going rate, it is still quite expensive.  Plus parts are expensive.  When JonnyB states that a “well sorted” car could possibly be maintained at $200-$300 per year, getting it to “well sorted” status is a VERY costly affair.  When my dad gave me his car, I had a strict budget I was willing to invest in the car.  It was a low mileage and mechanically well maintained car that had sat for a couple of years.  My so-called strict budget has been exceeded three fold!   I don’t think my experience is unique by any stretch. 

Now if you’re one of those knowledgeable petrol heads and loaded with more confidence than cash I think your scenario could be significantly different than mine.  There are some highly knowledgeable members here. Some have literally taken their entire cars apart and rebuilt them: engines, transmissions, air conditioning, brakes, steering, interiors as well as sheet metal work.  But even these folks face the cost of parts, the need to outsource some jobs and the investment of a large amount of time. 

My only advice is go into this with your eyes wide open.  Know what your limitations are and determine for yourself if you can make this happen and if it will meet with your needs and expectations. 

[zoegrlh]

I agree with Len, @ $60k there are a few Pagodas out there, but to get the most to “reliable “ turn key will take a few more bucks. Depending on where you live, finding a “good” mechanic that has experience with these cars could prove to be long distance. I do wish you well on finding that special 250SL. When you do find one, get a appraisal of it by a qualified Pagoda specialist. This could save you monies in the long run. This site will lead you along when you have problems.  I do wish you luck. Bob

[Todd]

This one certainly seems worth consideration, in your price range.  https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-mercedes-benz-250sl-43/ 

It sure looks very nice everywhere, and has enough "patina" to be a car that anything you do to cosmetically, will just be improving it and your love affair with it, vs. a car that is soooooo behind the curve as having been screwed with it's whole life (like my coupe was when I purchased it) that you can never catch up to even making it "normal and nice" because it actually needs a full rotisserie affair.  I'm loving the white and blue, and the underside is in amazing condition (other than 1 wrong horn, and a little drip from the P/S box, and the transmission, and a little trimmed metal off the lower front of right rear inner fender well). 

[itsryglo]

Thank you for your perspective on that BaT car, Todd. I am following the auction. We'll see where the final bid lands tomorrow.

[itsryglo]

I'm curious how often do you use the soft top vs. the hard top? I've seen some that come equipped with only the hard top (no soft top option). My instinct is it's better to have both options for max flexibility, but I'm wondering if the soft top is the type of thing you seldom/never actually use and just becomes more of a hassle to maintain? I live in California, so don't get unexpected rain.

Also, thoughts on this one - does anything stand out as concerning? It's not too far from me, and not far off my budget.
https://mercedesheritage.com/free-classifieds-only-classic-mercedes/show-ad?id=1612

thanks!

[BobH]

if you use the search button at the top left of the page and search "California Coupe", you'll find several posts, see link below for an example

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=28402.msg205570#msg205570

I can't comment on the car you're looking at, experienced members on here would advise you employ someone in the know to inspect the car for you, i'm sure there are plenty in your area with the experience and knowledge to do a comprehensive inspection for you

I'm in the UK, and whilst i love the look of the car with the hardtop on, i think it's the nicest car design ever, i drive it with the soft top up, which gives you the flexibility to go topless when the weather permits.  Hence the hard top sits in storage all of the time

It's not good to leave the soft top folded down for long periods, so i would have thought most owners put the soft top up regularly to preserve it.  I wouldn't recommend continually putting the hard top on and off, it's bloody heavy, unless you are a weightlifter, or have a hoist, and there is a good chance of you or your assistant damaging the paintwork if you're not really careful

Here's a video of the process

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcvG2HfMat4

Also have a search for "hardtop removal" or "Hardtop Hoist"

So, i guess if you have year round sun, and little chance of rain, a hardtop only car may suit you, other members in similar climates would know better

[Taleb]

with this budget you will find good pagooda 5 years a go ...

[itsryglo]

OMG, I got it:  https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-mercedes-benz-250sl-43/

Thank you to this community for your guidance and advice!

[Todd]

58 large for a 250SL.  That's winning my friend!!!  Great score on a beautiful car.  That's gonna leave a smile on your face that can't be wiped off.  I'm stoked for you!!

[Mike Hughes]

Ya done good!  Comparing your new car to the California Coupe I think you got the nicer and more useable car.  Have fun getting to know it!

[DaveB]

Great looking car! (nice spotting by Todd.)
The seller says he’ll miss the ‘sound of the doors closing and the sewing-machine-smooth motor and the smell of the interior’. 

[Cees Klumper]

Congratulations, looks like a nice example.

[Pinder]

Congratulations. That looks like a really nice car. Just needs a little tidying up under the hood. I recently was able to get  a new Dimond pattern pad that was self stick. and no cutting needed. It was a big improvement.

[Jonny B]

Be sure to take lots of pictures when you get the car. They will be an invaluable resource as you start to make the car yours.

To take a page from Garry Mark's book, now that you have a car, I would highly recommend that you join the group as a full member. The technical manual will prove the value of the membership time and time again.

Plus you will receive bi-annually the Pagoda World magazine - I hope you will put together an article for Pagoda World magazine on the experience with BaT, getting the car, and putting it into your service.

Good luck, it should be a fine journey.

[Todd]

Since that car is on Oregon plates, and you'll be registering it here in CA, you have a couple of cool options, rather than just getting handed a modern 7 digit plate.

1) CA allows YOM(Year Of Manufacture) license plates to be re-registered to your vintage car.  You'll find these all day long on ebay, by searching "California Black and Gold License Plates" or "California 1966 License Plate."  There are 2 constraints:  a)  You have to have both matching plates   b)  You have to have a rear-of-registration sticker on one of the plates, that matches the year model of the car.   These original stickers are also available on ebay.   Once you have the plates in hand AND have put the sticker on the plate that has been being used as the rear plate, you go to the local DMV and request the plates be registered to your car.  They will take a photo of both plates, and send that, and your "request" paperwork to the division in Sacramento, for final approval.  Once approved, you will get your correct registration documents, and a small metal plate.  They want that metal plate to be mounted to one of the rear license plate attachment screws, and for you to put all future "current year registration stickers" onto that plate, so that the original sticker, in your case, a yellow "1966" sticker, is always displayed.  IMO there's no need to do this.  Just stick your new year stickers where they belong, on top of the 1966 sticker, and get on with your life.

2) CA offers a black and gold Heritage Plate, that you can custom number.  So you could have a period looking set of plates, with some letter/number arrangement that you create, if it hasn't already been used......like on my Coupe, I could do something like "SEC 111" which would be a correctly configured number and letter set for the '60s, and be pretty cool.  I found an even cooler set of plates, so I didn't do that.

Apologies for the unsolicited advice, and for writing a book!

[m300cab]

I would wait till February to look

[Mark250]

Hey did you find a 250 yet?
I am considering selling mine white/ blue interior, starts every day but needs a bit of love.
I have a 250 Project car that I am reconditioning now as well. Mine is a west coast car with NO RUST currently in Philadelphia PA
Give me a call 267 474 8488

[teahead]

Hey did you find a 250 yet?
I am considering selling mine white/ blue interior, starts every day but needs a bit of love.
I have a 250 Project car that I am reconditioning now as well. Mine is a west coast car with NO RUST currently in Philadelphia PA
Give me a call 267 474 8488

Read above.  He got the one from BAT

[PinkiDD]

1963 Early model, 32nd produced, probably the oldest in existence for sale:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeUMc0tnSx0