Author Topic: Air flow lever connection  (Read 2927 times)

GM

  • Associate Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, CA, San Pedro
  • Posts: 504
Air flow lever connection
« on: February 03, 2021, 23:49:54 »
I've been reinstalling my radio with better attachment at the rear, and reinstalling my repaired clock, and now that it's all closed up (of course :-[) I find that the upper right air flow lever is "free floating" with no resistance. Uh oh. Does anyone have any pics of the connection detail for the lever? I checked the Tech Manual and got close, but I'm trying to see a close up (if it's even possible) of the lever connection. I've also discovered in the process that I can't keep fuse #7 from blowing when I turn on the lights.
Anyone need brain surgery? I'm available.
Thanks
« Last Edit: March 14, 2021, 19:21:37 by GM »
Gary
1971 280SL - Sold
(98 from the end of production)
DB180 Silver Gray Metallic
Black MB Tex

mrfatboy

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Rancho Santa Fe
  • Posts: 1339
    • Mrfatboy
Re: Heater lever connection
« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2021, 02:04:15 »
I did the job and this is the only picture I have. Sorry. 😖.  I remember the cable slipped off or came undone once or twice when reinstalling.  I can’t remember how it was connected.

I do remember using a mirror and needle nose pliers to reconnect. I think my wife even helped me by looking through the windshield to guide me. It is doable but a pain.
1969 280sl (Aug 1968 build)
Signal Red
4 Speed

Charles 230SL

  • Full Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, GA, Griffin
  • Posts: 569
  • 64 230SL
Re: Heater lever connection
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2021, 03:08:54 »
I find that the upper right heater lever is "free floating" with no resistance. Uh oh. Does anyone have any pics of the connection detail for the lever?
Gary, the attached pics provide some close ups of the cable connection on the upper-right control lever (this lever diverts heat to defrost or toward the floor).
« Last Edit: February 04, 2021, 03:22:09 by Charles 230SL »

Charles 230SL

  • Full Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, GA, Griffin
  • Posts: 569
  • 64 230SL
Re: Heater lever connection
« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2021, 03:21:34 »
The cable retainer clip (arrow) may have popped off or the cable may have pulled loose at the heat distributor box (2nd pic below). Working on the levers is no fun but as Mrfatboy noted, a mirror and a wife will make the job easier..   
« Last Edit: February 04, 2021, 03:33:48 by Charles 230SL »

GM

  • Associate Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, CA, San Pedro
  • Posts: 504
Re: Air flow lever connection
« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2021, 17:12:29 »
Thank you, gentlemen!
Can I do this from the clock and glovebox opening?
Do I need to remove the radio?
Do I need to come in from the top and remove the speaker grille on the dash?
« Last Edit: March 14, 2021, 19:22:33 by GM »
Gary
1971 280SL - Sold
(98 from the end of production)
DB180 Silver Gray Metallic
Black MB Tex

Charles 230SL

  • Full Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, GA, Griffin
  • Posts: 569
  • 64 230SL
Re: Heater lever connection
« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2021, 18:39:49 »
To gain access the upper right lever connection you'll need to remove the grille and speaker.  Using a mirror (or looking down through the windshield), you'll be able to determine whether the cable and retainer clip are correctly in place. If they are, then I suspect the cable has somehow pulled loose from the heater distribution box - especially since this is in the area where the bracket on the rear of the radio attaches to the firewall.  You may be able to see where the cable attaches to the heater box from the clock or glove box opening, but you certainly won't be able to get your hands on it. Unfortunately, the best way to access it is to remove the radio again..
In the picture I've circled the tab where the L-bracket attaches to the firewall (note that it's pretty close to where you were working). I feel your frustration..

Jonny B

  • Pagoda SL Board
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, San Marcos
  • Posts: 3893
Re: Heater lever connection
« Reply #6 on: February 04, 2021, 18:40:27 »
My experience is that you will not be able to do this from the glovebox. If it is only the top cable, you should be able to do from the top by removing the speaker.

I think you will need to come from underneath if it is the two heat-level control cables - the bottom levers.

As the others have said this is not an easy job.
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904

GM

  • Associate Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, CA, San Pedro
  • Posts: 504
Re: Air flow lever connection
« Reply #7 on: February 04, 2021, 18:56:24 »
Charles - that "L bracket" is precisely where I re-attached the rear of the radio with a home-made clip that looks like this.
« Last Edit: March 14, 2021, 19:22:50 by GM »
Gary
1971 280SL - Sold
(98 from the end of production)
DB180 Silver Gray Metallic
Black MB Tex

Benz Dr.

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, Port Lambton
  • Posts: 6799
  • Benz Dr.
Re: Heater lever connection
« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2021, 21:15:09 »
The cable retainer clip (arrow) may have popped off or the cable may have pulled loose at the heat distributor box (2nd pic below). Working on the levers is no fun but as Mrfatboy noted, a mirror and a wife will make the job easier...

What's the mirror for?  So you can see her glaring at you from behind? ;)
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

FGN59

  • Associate Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • France, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, Marseille
  • Posts: 263
Re: Heater lever connection
« Reply #9 on: February 04, 2021, 21:17:57 »
Sorry, but this is kind of irresistible:

What’s the wife for, rather?
François

1969 280SL US specs, 4-speed manual, beige-grey (726H), parchment leather
1994 Toyota Land Cruiser SW HDJ80 4.2L diesel
1955 Massey Ferguson TEF20 diesel tractor 😁
sold:
1962 Jaguar MK2 3.8L (4.2L XJ6 engine), black, tan leather interior
1968 Peugeot 204 roadster, white, black interior

Big Yellow

  • Full Member
  • Junior Level
  • *
  • France, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, Roquefort les Pins
  • Posts: 10
Re: Heater lever connection
« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2021, 10:33:36 »
I also have a problem with the the air flow lever. It has gotten stuck in defroster setting and I don't think it's the cable, it feels more like an obstacle in the air distribution box... Any thoughts what it could be ?

Big Yellow
Vidar "Big Yellow" Holmdin
MB 230 SL - 1964 manual

ja17

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Blacklick
  • Posts: 7015
  • 614 312-2865
Re: Heater lever connection
« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2021, 16:27:05 »
Make sure the lever is not bumping into the dash speaker magnet.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2006 Mercedes Sprinter Van
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

GM

  • Associate Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, CA, San Pedro
  • Posts: 504
Re: Air flow lever connection
« Reply #12 on: March 14, 2021, 00:53:48 »
I realized that I used an incorrect term in the subject line of this thread - it's really about the air vent control, not heater levers.
Thanks to the fine guidance here, today I saw that the wire had come free from the lever and I managed to reconnect the wire to the upper right lever blindly, by feel through the dash speaker opening, into the slot under the castle nut and tightened it down. Thanks for your help and photos on that!
Now the next problem, the linkage is very tight and the lever won't span the full range. I cannot find in the Tech Manual - where does the other end of the upper right lever connect to the vent control? I have a feeling it goes under the dash? Any photos, please? I've got a nice fat Frigiking AC sitting under there!
Thanks
« Last Edit: March 14, 2021, 19:23:14 by GM »
Gary
1971 280SL - Sold
(98 from the end of production)
DB180 Silver Gray Metallic
Black MB Tex

GM

  • Associate Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, CA, San Pedro
  • Posts: 504
Re: Air flow lever connection
« Reply #13 on: March 14, 2021, 19:20:23 »
For those following this thread, and for posterity, here are related links to my stuck air flow lever. It looks like it is the definition of opening a can of worms.
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=25935.0
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=15764.msg108445#msg108445
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=2545.msg14123#msg14123
Gary
1971 280SL - Sold
(98 from the end of production)
DB180 Silver Gray Metallic
Black MB Tex

GM

  • Associate Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, CA, San Pedro
  • Posts: 504
Re: Air flow lever connection
« Reply #14 on: March 31, 2021, 21:52:26 »
As I prepare to dive in and determine the cause of the sticking air flow lever (upper right) potentially originating at the other end of the lever wire, at the heater distribution box under the dash, a remaining question regarding the Frigiking AC unit in the way. Can I just:
1. remove the 4 screws attaching the AC unit to the underside of the dash,
2. loosen the 2 screws holding it to the blower housing bracket at the back of the AC unit,
3. remove the 2 screws holding the case to the kick panel mounting bracket, and
4. gently lower the entire AC assembly onto the floor/tunnel to enable access the heater distribution box?
In other words, can I do all this without disconnecting the hoses connected to the AC unit?
Thanks!
« Last Edit: March 31, 2021, 21:57:21 by GM »
Gary
1971 280SL - Sold
(98 from the end of production)
DB180 Silver Gray Metallic
Black MB Tex

BHap

  • Full Member
  • Senior
  • ***
  • USA, PA, Pittsburgh
  • Posts: 130
Re: Air flow lever connection
« Reply #15 on: October 30, 2021, 22:43:50 »
I'm in the same boat. 

GM -  did the procedure you described above work for you? 

My AC has held a charge for several years and I'd hate to open up the system.

Thanks for any help
Bob Happe
Pittsburgh, Pa
1970 280SL, white/black 4 speed

dirkbalter

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Corona
  • Posts: 1028
Re: Air flow lever connection
« Reply #16 on: October 31, 2021, 01:12:46 »
As I prepare to dive in and determine the cause of the sticking air flow lever (upper right) potentially originating at the other end of the lever wire, at the heater distribution box under the dash, a remaining question regarding the Frigiking AC unit in the way. Can I just:
1. remove the 4 screws attaching the AC unit to the underside of the dash,
2. loosen the 2 screws holding it to the blower housing bracket at the back of the AC unit,
3. remove the 2 screws holding the case to the kick panel mounting bracket, and
4. gently lower the entire AC assembly onto the floor/tunnel to enable access the heater distribution box?
In other words, can I do all this without disconnecting the hoses connected to the AC unit?
Thanks!

Gary,
The upper right lever is for the flaps in the heater box. I don't think removing the  AC unit will help you.
Dirk
66 230 SL
70 280 SEL
18 C300 COUPE
05 HD FLSTNI

BHap

  • Full Member
  • Senior
  • ***
  • USA, PA, Pittsburgh
  • Posts: 130
Re: Air flow lever connection
« Reply #17 on: November 03, 2021, 04:10:55 »
The upper right lever controls the heat / defrost air diverter. Does anyone have any ideas on  how to access the diverter box with a Frigiking AC unit in the way?  Short of removing the AC unit, can anything be done to loosen up the diverter mechanism?  I've read where there is felt that might bunch up - can that be reached with the diverter in place?  Trying to get my diverter freed up so I don't break my lever changing from heat to defrost.  I've read a ton of posts, but no direct answer to this.  GM came close (earlier post in tyhis thread), but apparently he did not attempt the repair yet.
Bob Happe
Pittsburgh, Pa
1970 280SL, white/black 4 speed

dirkbalter

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Corona
  • Posts: 1028
Re: Air flow lever connection
« Reply #18 on: November 03, 2021, 15:23:46 »
Bob, the cable that operates the flaps in the heater box, enters the box in the top center. (See pic). If you reimove your speaker, you can see the connection to the upper right lever. Unless you are planning to remove the heater box, I don’t see the point in removing the ac unit.
You can also stick your fingers into the opening of the box from underneath and move the flaps by hand to possibly free or get them moving.
Dirk
66 230 SL
70 280 SEL
18 C300 COUPE
05 HD FLSTNI

BHap

  • Full Member
  • Senior
  • ***
  • USA, PA, Pittsburgh
  • Posts: 130
Re: Air flow lever connection
« Reply #19 on: November 04, 2021, 00:53:00 »
The dash is apart and I have my levers out.  The diverter is still binding when I push or pull the cable. I am guessing there is not a way to access the diverter itself without opening the box, and that there is no way to get inside the box without removing the AC. If I can lower the AC without opening the freon lines, then it might be worth trying - since the upper dash is already apart. Otherwise I'll put it back together and use the "reach" method to help the diverter open or close.
Bob Happe
Pittsburgh, Pa
1970 280SL, white/black 4 speed

dirkbalter

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Corona
  • Posts: 1028
Re: Air flow lever connection
« Reply #20 on: November 04, 2021, 00:59:52 »
Well, the whole heater unit is a bad design with respect to accessibility and maintenance IMO. Be aware that the heater vents are attached to the box. These need to be unbolted as well and are quite fragile due to their age.
Dirk
66 230 SL
70 280 SEL
18 C300 COUPE
05 HD FLSTNI