Author Topic: Heater Motor and Fan  (Read 5725 times)

Mpgeslak

  • Full Member
  • Senior
  • ***
  • USA, GA, Greensboro
  • Posts: 113
Re: Heater Motor and Fan
« Reply #25 on: April 14, 2021, 11:11:34 »
Hi Meyer, thanks for your response.

Seems like the motor isn't drawing too many amps and resistance in the Rheostat seems correct, which does seem to point to some sort of fault with the switch itself.  My original switch was broken, a big piece of the ceramic in the back was missing.  I purchased the reproduction at oldtimer-ersatzteile24.   I see that Vintage Euro Parts in the US also has a reproduction available.  Would I be better with a used one from Ebay?

Michael
1967 250SL

mnahon

  • Full Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • Canada, QC, Montreal
  • Posts: 414
Re: Heater Motor and Fan
« Reply #26 on: April 14, 2021, 11:49:39 »
You could try returning the switch and have them send you another, in the hope that it's just a defective item. If it happens again, you might be better off with a used original in good condition. The quality of reproduction parts, in general, is unpredictable---some are very good and others are pretty junky.
Meyer Nahon
Montreal, Canada
1968 MB 280SL Auto Euro LHD Silver
2021 Tesla Model 3

Peter

  • Full Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • Netherlands, North Brabant, Helmond
  • Posts: 453
Re: Heater Motor and Fan
« Reply #27 on: April 14, 2021, 19:22:32 »

1) I agree with mnahon’s answer
2) With switch in high position it draws 8 amps.   
    a.   Looks okay
3) That I also found was if I disconnect the high speed wire the motor still runs which means the variable switch is not going off.
    a.   But at lower speed I assume , this means the switch is not ok.
4) Without the high speed wire it draws about 6.5 amps. The rheostat doesn't get hot in this position which is expected   
    a.   This is good
5) With the switch in the highest variable speed it draws 6.5 amps.
    a.   Is the same situation (in principle as point 4) conclusion switch is not okay
6) and at the lowest speed about 2.25 amps. The switch get progressively hotter through the range and smokes at the slower speeds.
    a. This is logic when the See answer  from mnahon’s if motor draws to much Amps, or the rheostat is to light.  My measurement of MB motor lowspeed on maximum was 5,2 Amps you have 6,0 I can’t judge is this is a problem.
7) In the off position the motor still runs at a slow rate.
    a.   Switch is broken!

The switch is definitely not okay so first you need a good working switch.

Peter



Mpgeslak

  • Full Member
  • Senior
  • ***
  • USA, GA, Greensboro
  • Posts: 113
Re: Heater Motor and Fan
« Reply #28 on: April 14, 2021, 20:57:37 »
Thanks for all the assistance Peter, I will try to source a new switch and report back on what happens

Michael
1967 250SL