Murphy's Law Weekend

[70chevelle]

Saturday a.m. I rotated the tires on my Durango.  The 2 rear aluminum wheels were seized to the hubs.  Never had to rotate tires with an 8# sledge, but thats a story for a different BBS.  The brakes on my 70 280 SL were spongy, and didn't stop very quick.  No leaks, and I don't know the history of the brake fluid, so I decided to bleed the old fluid out and bleed new fluid in this weekend, so I could drive and drive safely.  I realized that there was a good potential that the bleed nipples may be uncooperative, so I sprayed a little WD40 and let it sit.  Started at the front, and both loosened with no problems.  Went to the drivers rear, different wrench size, no problem.  Bleeder loosened.  Went to the passengers rear.  Found a rubber bleeder cover and figured I was in.  Put the wrench on, and felt that it was much tighter than the rest.  I gingerly worked to release it, and it finally gave.  Pulled the wrench up, and, of course, half of the bleeder was broken off.  Now I had to remove the brake line and caliper.  The fitting didn't want to spin on the brake line, but finally did.  The cage nuts (my term) on the rear calipers were a treat.  I had to put a set of needle nose lock pliers on the top one to finally get it removed.  I connected my Mightvac on the rear passenger brake line, and it put about 25# of pressure until something gave and fluid filled the jar.  The brakes look brand new on the rear.  Anyway, the caliper is on the bench, awaiting the rest of the bleeder be removed.  I just hope when I get it back together this week, that the brakes feel better than they did before.  

Questions:  I am hoping that I can pick up a new bleeder at my local autoparts store?  Are the "cage nuts" that hold the caliper on available?  Any suggestions while I have one caliper off for other things that should/could be done?  Suggestions on how to remove the rest of the bleeder that is left in the caliper?  Thanks in advance!

70 Chevelle 13.7 @ 99.7
70 280 SL Silver/Black top
05 C230 Kompressor
03 Dodge Durango SLT

[graphic66]

I usually just place a nut over the broken bleeder and weld it to the bleeder. A wrench on the nut will turn the broken bleeder right out with the help of the heat. I have never had the heat do any internal damage to the caliper. Don't forget to put some never sieze on those bleeder threads to help avoid this problem in the future.

[n/a]

as for the durango, the best bet is (next time) to loosen the lugs a few turns, and set the car back down on the wheels, slowly move the car forward and backwards a few feet a few times, and if still no luck, make some turns....this routine has never failed me.

it does seem like a common problem these days.

-Lewis

66 230 sl 113042-10-016238
67 saab sonett II #43 of 258
00 saab 9-3 viggen conv
02 saab 9-5 aero

[dldubois]

70chevelle.  

I just went through the same process w/ my brakes.   I ended up breaking the bleed screw on the left rear and made a mess of it trying to get it out.  My caliper was leaking and the seals were shot as well as the pistons being marked up.   I've ordered a new caliper which I should have this week.

Initially I ordered the rear bleed screw from Millers and they had to get from Germany.   I should have any day and if needed I could forward. (I'm not going to need now that I'm replacing the entire caliper.  (I'll also have a repair kit I won't be needing.



Dana DuBois

1970 280sl White (050)4spd
Corinth, TX

[Malc]

To try and answer.....

Alloy wheels will "weld" themselve to hubs. Beast to smear a little neversieze or similar on the face before remounting them.

I'm alittle worried that you had to use so much pressure to get the brake fluid moving this suggests a partial blockage somewhere. How old are you flex hoses?? They do start to "go" with age and colapse internally (this has been discussed before). I use braided "BF Goodridge Aeroquip" brake hoses on my cars as and when I replace OEM ones.

Broken Bleed nipples, we have all been there! I usually toast them with oxy-acetalene before trying to move them, if required weld a nut, use an easy out or anything to remove, and as Graphic66 says neversieze helps and the heat does not seem to effect the seals etc.

I have in the past "mangled" a bleed nipple so badly I had to do the following.

[li] Drill out remains of bleed nipple. [/li]
[li] Find another nipple with a larger diameter, a clutch slave cylinder nipple for an MGB worked in this case[/li]
[li] Drill the correct size hole then cut threads to suit[/li]

You have to be very careful and this took me an age to do but replacement calipers were unavailable. A competent machine shop should be able to do this for you if you don't want to do it yourself.
HTH
Malc

[70chevelle]

Yes - antiseize on all 4 wheels.  I assumed  that the nipples were aluminum.  I will try welding a nut tonite.  I will also get a set of easy-outs for the future.  dldubois - very generous offer, thanks.  If I need the parts, I will let you know, and of course, pay for the parts/shipping.  Malc, I was very concerned about the blockage in the rear brakes.  I will be checking the brake lines as soon as I know I have a working caliper.  It will be working appropriately by the time I'm done!  It's killing me right now that my 2 1970 toys are on jack stands and undrivable.  They will both be good as new by summer.  Thanks for all the replys

70 Chevelle 13.7 @ 99.7
70 280 SL Silver/Black top
05 C230 Kompressor
03 Dodge Durango SLT