Author Topic: Complete Brake replacement and AC replacement repair job for 1970 280SL  (Read 12680 times)

CromeYellow

  • Associate Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, CA, Southern California
  • Posts: 59
Re: Complete Brake replacement and AC replacement repair job for 1970 280SL
« Reply #25 on: February 13, 2021, 16:55:02 »
Also, do people typically restore the odometer to 0 after a complete engine rebuild and restoration?  I read about one 280SL that was recently sold around $100K where the odometer had been reset.

 As I recall the miles are 36000 or so right now.  The car wasn't driven at all for over ten years of its life, and very rarely before that.

I am sure the best is to leave the odometer alone, but just wondering.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2021, 17:26:27 by CromeYellow »

mauro12

  • Full Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • Italy, Sicily, Messina
  • Posts: 595
Re: Complete Brake replacement and AC replacement repair job for 1970 280SL
« Reply #26 on: February 13, 2021, 22:38:44 »
Have you guys ever tried for our car the Brembo brake pads ? I want to replace my discs and pads and I’m wondering which one is the best choice . Ate discs and pads or Brembo ? I read a lot of very good reviews about Zimmerman brake discs , they have a really high quality coating . Which is the best combination in your opinion ?
Mauro Pisani
250sl 1967 5speed zf manual

johnk

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Avon
  • Posts: 1156
Re: Complete Brake replacement and AC replacement repair job for 1970 280SL
« Reply #27 on: February 14, 2021, 04:53:02 »

I wasn't planning on clear coating over the polished finish?  Should I?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-6_EpDh0jI
https://www.eastwood.com/exoarmour.html



I would was told not to clear mine after vapor blasting. Clear can yellow over time and vapor blasting creates a smooth non porous layer on top. I would guess that your finish should be smooth enough to keep clean. You would want to use clear coat if you just bead blasted your aluminum as that opens the pores rather than closing them.
John Krystowski
Avon Ohio
1968 Euro 280sl under restoration
2016 Jag F-Type R sold june 2021
1950 Alfa Romeo 6C 2500 SS For sale
2008 E350
2007 GL 450
2019 BMW 540

CromeYellow

  • Associate Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, CA, Southern California
  • Posts: 59
Re: Complete Brake replacement and AC replacement repair job for 1970 280SL
« Reply #28 on: February 16, 2021, 01:12:21 »
The car currently has Pirelli P4000 tires
205/70 R14

The tires have almost no miles on them but have been idle for a decade so I will replace them.

Should I stick with the same 205/70 R14 size?

Benz Dr.

  • Vendor
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, Port Lambton
  • Posts: 7181
  • Benz Dr.
Re: Complete Brake replacement and AC replacement repair job for 1970 280SL
« Reply #29 on: February 16, 2021, 03:10:16 »
The car currently has Pirelli P4000 tires
205/70 R14

The tires have almost no miles on them but have been idle for a decade so I will replace them.

Should I stick with the same 205/70 R14 size?

I wouldn't go any wider. Good chance of rubbing even with 205's.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

neelyrc

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, AL, Birmingham
  • Posts: 1223
Re: Complete Brake replacement and AC replacement repair job for 1970 280SL
« Reply #30 on: February 16, 2021, 04:06:16 »
Lots of discussion here on the forum about tires and tire sizes.  The search function is your friend.  My personal preference is for a size closer to original tires.

Whatever you decide on size, don’t drive an inch on those 10 plus year old ones.
Ralph

1969 280SL, 4 Speed Manual, Dark Olive (291H), Parchment Leather (256), Dark Green Soft Top (747)
1972 Mercedes-Benz 280SEL 4.5
1988 Mercedes-Benz 560SL
2007 BMW 328xi (E90)
Italy
2004 Toyota HiLux D4D Pickup
2008 BMW 330xd Futura Coupe' (E92)

Cees Klumper

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, De Luz and Los Angeles
  • Posts: 5598
    • http://SL113.org
Re: Complete Brake replacement and AC replacement repair job for 1970 280SL
« Reply #31 on: February 16, 2021, 05:41:52 »
I had those Pirellis and really liked them. After ten or so years swapped them for narrower Vredesteins, which look more correct, but I preferred the ride the Pirellis gave. Of course this is 20 years ago, so today the comparison could well be different. There was no rubbing with the 205 Pirellis.
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

CromeYellow

  • Associate Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, CA, Southern California
  • Posts: 59
Re: Complete Brake replacement and AC replacement repair job for 1970 280SL
« Reply #32 on: February 16, 2021, 17:53:10 »
I did search a lot.  So between the Vredestein 205/70VR14 and any other 205/70 R14 would there be any difference in size though?  The Vredesteins are narrower than the same size Pirelli 4000?

Are the Vredesteins narrower than for example the, Michelin Defender 205/70 R14 ?  These are T speed rated though, while the Pirelli 4000s were H rated I believe.  The Vredesteins are V rated?  That would be more than fast enough!

What would be the next size smaller down from the 205/70 R14, versus the original 185/80 HR14 ?  195/75 R14?
« Last Edit: February 16, 2021, 17:59:18 by CromeYellow »

Cees Klumper

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, De Luz and Los Angeles
  • Posts: 5598
    • http://SL113.org
Re: Complete Brake replacement and AC replacement repair job for 1970 280SL
« Reply #33 on: February 16, 2021, 18:41:39 »
The width is indicated by the first number: 205 means 205 mm wide (20.5 cm), 185 is 18.5 cm etc etc.  So 205 Vredesteins should be exactly the same width as Pirelli 205's.

The Vredesteins I got are the original width, the Pirellis were only available (when I bought them 20 years ago) in 205 so that's what I got then. Although 205 did not look out of place on my car, I do prefer the original width, or at least not more than 195, but that's personal preference, as is whether to go to 15 inch wheels over the original 14 inch.
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

neelyrc

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, AL, Birmingham
  • Posts: 1223
Re: Complete Brake replacement and AC replacement repair job for 1970 280SL
« Reply #34 on: February 17, 2021, 03:11:16 »

What would be the next size smaller down from the 205/70 R14, versus the original 185/80 HR14 ?  195/75 R14?
 

I am using the 195/75 R14.  This  size is the closest to the original tire in diameter/circumference.
Ralph

1969 280SL, 4 Speed Manual, Dark Olive (291H), Parchment Leather (256), Dark Green Soft Top (747)
1972 Mercedes-Benz 280SEL 4.5
1988 Mercedes-Benz 560SL
2007 BMW 328xi (E90)
Italy
2004 Toyota HiLux D4D Pickup
2008 BMW 330xd Futura Coupe' (E92)

CromeYellow

  • Associate Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, CA, Southern California
  • Posts: 59
The engine looks like the below pic now.  He has finished the brake work and installed the new AC parts under the engine but now needs to work on the area behind the dash as well as either finding or having fabricated the AC hoses.

Along the way he replaced some other parts too, not related to the brakes or AC, which he felt needed to be changed, which is what I like about what he does.  He doesn't just go in and fix one thing he addresses anything that looks like it should be replaced.  It is a restoration job in progress.


MikeSimon

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, North Royalton
  • Posts: 2423
Maybe somebody can help me out here. I keep looking at the pictures of - among other things - the polished parts posted on February 12 and for whatever reason, both the valve cover and the intake manifold do not look M130-983 to me...Why is is? Do I need new glasses...again??
1970/71 280SL Automatic
Sandy Beige
Parchment Leather
Power Steering
Automatic
Hardtop
Heated Tinted Rear Window
German specs
3rd owner

hansr433

  • Associate Member
  • Senior
  • ***
  • Italy, Tuscany, Torrita di Siena
  • Posts: 219
Yes I asked for and paid for the valve cover and manifold to be polished.  If I ever sell the car I doubt the buyer on that day is going to ask for them to be returned to beat up old looking condition.  It's a one owner car (my father and I) so I suppose I may say that I am entirely responsible for it in all respects.

Nothing rebuilt is going into the car.

I am sure that you know that the original finish on the valve cover and manifold was engineered to dissipate heat?  Polishing negates this.
Hans
1963 220SE Cabrio (Exterior: Navy MB 332, Top: Haarz Navy, Interior: 482P Sahara Beige)
1963 BMW R69S

MikeSimon

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, North Royalton
  • Posts: 2423
Well....if they were "engineered" to dissipate heat, they would be black!
1970/71 280SL Automatic
Sandy Beige
Parchment Leather
Power Steering
Automatic
Hardtop
Heated Tinted Rear Window
German specs
3rd owner

dirkbalter

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Corona
  • Posts: 1426
Maybe somebody can help me out here. I keep looking at the pictures of - among other things - the polished parts posted on February 12 and for whatever reason, both the valve cover and the intake manifold do not look M130-983 to me...Why is is? Do I need new glasses...again??

I agree, looks different?
Dirk
66 230 SL
70 280 SEL
53 CHEVY 3100
18 C300 COUPE
05 HD FLSTNI

CromeYellow

  • Associate Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, CA, Southern California
  • Posts: 59
The parts are original to this car.  Maybe look different because polished.

The engine is original too, and its # is
130-983-XX-XXXXXX


Speaking from an engineering point of view, how would a part that is polished dissipate heat any differently from a part that was not polished?  Aren't we talking about internal heat, not a function of sunlight bouncing off the surface?

Just another little thing the mechanic did was after the new AC compressor came in he noticed that it was "Made in China."  It was identical to the one that had been in the car from Day One, but I guess some of these compressors are nowadays Made in China.  He returned it and got the original made in USA compressor for the car, which was harder to find new, but he got it.  He is being paid a flat rate by me and didn't get a penny more for seeking out and using the made in USA compressor.  He's done it like that countless times during this process.
« Last Edit: March 02, 2021, 21:00:29 by CromeYellow »

hansr433

  • Associate Member
  • Senior
  • ***
  • Italy, Tuscany, Torrita di Siena
  • Posts: 219
Well....if they were "engineered" to dissipate heat, they would be black!

Not necessarily.  I am referring to surface composition not colour.  The original pebble finish offers much more surface area than a polished finish, thus better heat dissipation.
Hans
1963 220SE Cabrio (Exterior: Navy MB 332, Top: Haarz Navy, Interior: 482P Sahara Beige)
1963 BMW R69S

CromeYellow

  • Associate Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, CA, Southern California
  • Posts: 59
Interesting thought.

I did find some discussion on that concept
https://boards.straightdope.com/t/polished-engine-vs-heat-transfer-and-performance/728409
but the difference, if there is any difference, seems to apply to internal parts.  Again, I find it hard to swallow that the finish of an external part would affect the flow of heat going outwards, when it is not a moving part. 

If there is any difference as to an exterior part's finish of this small size I doubt it could be measured?

And if you dig deeper, there are those who claim that
"a polished surface will reflect radiant heat energy better (like a mirror) and absorb less. Likewise once hot , that surface will not emit as much heat due to the polished surface. A rough cast surface however will absorb more heat energy (less like a mirror) but will also be a better emitter of the energy. Like I said, once heat soaked, it comes out a wash so is relatively inconsequential what surface finish the UIM (upper intake manifold) has."
« Last Edit: March 02, 2021, 21:10:11 by CromeYellow »

Benz Dr.

  • Vendor
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, Port Lambton
  • Posts: 7181
  • Benz Dr.
Interesting thought.

I did find some discussion on that concept
https://boards.straightdope.com/t/polished-engine-vs-heat-transfer-and-performance/728409
but the difference, if there is any difference, seems to apply to internal parts.  Again, I find it hard to swallow that the finish of an external part would affect the flow of heat going outwards, when it is not a moving part. 

If there is any difference as to an exterior part's finish I doubt it could be measured?

And if you dig deeper, there are those who claim that
"a polished surface will reflect radiant heat energy better (like a mirror) and absorb less. Likewise once hot , that surface will not emit as much heat due to the polished surface. A rough cast surface however will absorb more heat energy (less like a mirror) but will also be a better emitter of the energy. Like I said, once heat soaked, it comes out a wash so is relatively inconsequential what surface finish the UIM (upper intake manifold) has."

Maybe. Ever look at a tea kettle?
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

CromeYellow

  • Associate Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, CA, Southern California
  • Posts: 59
Well here are the parts before polish / plating.  Not exactly sure there is any engineering difference as far as surface area.




I think the polishing and plating I did changed the cosmetics is all.  It is after all an exterior finish.

MikeSimon

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, North Royalton
  • Posts: 2423
Have you ever looked at air-cooled motorcycle engines? Those that used in racing or high performance have black cylinder heads and engine barrels.
I know it is hard to swallow for someone who has not been exposed to physics much, but black surfaces emit heat better than light color ones.
And of course, an increased surface helps also. That's why we have "cooling fins".
Engineers are usually concerned about performance. Marketing guys are concerned about looks. That's why we have polished parts.
1970/71 280SL Automatic
Sandy Beige
Parchment Leather
Power Steering
Automatic
Hardtop
Heated Tinted Rear Window
German specs
3rd owner

Benz Dr.

  • Vendor
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, Port Lambton
  • Posts: 7181
  • Benz Dr.
It's your car and as such, you can do it any way you like but I can see all sorts of incorrect finishes all over your engine bay. We probably shouldn't get into any sort of a protracted discussion about any of this.  :)
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

CromeYellow

  • Associate Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, CA, Southern California
  • Posts: 59
If it is ever sold, in another thirty or forty or fifty years or whatever, it will probably be the only one owner only, West Coast only, 280SL on the planet, with very very low original miles on it, so I doubt that buyer is going to pick any car over mine.  Or it might just remain in my family and never be sold.

As I looked across the internet I saw a variety of different ways people had done the different parts, in a half century I am sure there will be even more variations, and even more discussions as to what is "correct."  :)

In the meantime, exactly, it remains my car.
« Last Edit: March 02, 2021, 23:22:19 by CromeYellow »

Cees Klumper

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, De Luz and Los Angeles
  • Posts: 5598
    • http://SL113.org
... and just maybe, today some parts made in China are better quality than the same part made in the USA, or Europe or other places for that matter.
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

CromeYellow

  • Associate Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, CA, Southern California
  • Posts: 59
Well the point was to replace the part with a part that was made in the same place as the original.  Not just the same manufacturer and part, but made in the same place too.   :D