Author Topic: Complete Brake replacement and AC replacement repair job for 1970 280SL  (Read 12679 times)

hansr433

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Interesting thought.

I did find some discussion on that concept
https://boards.straightdope.com/t/polished-engine-vs-heat-transfer-and-performance/728409
but the difference, if there is any difference, seems to apply to internal parts.  Again, I find it hard to swallow that the finish of an external part would affect the flow of heat going outwards, when it is not a moving part. 

If there is any difference as to an exterior part's finish of this small size I doubt it could be measured?

And if you dig deeper, there are those who claim that
"a polished surface will reflect radiant heat energy better (like a mirror) and absorb less. Likewise once hot , that surface will not emit as much heat due to the polished surface. A rough cast surface however will absorb more heat energy (less like a mirror) but will also be a better emitter of the energy. Like I said, once heat soaked, it comes out a wash so is relatively inconsequential what surface finish the UIM (upper intake manifold) has."

Precisely my point.  Since these parts are under the hood, let's set aside the heat absorption and concentrate on heat dissipation, which is diminished on polished parts.
By all means, finish your car the way you like it.  I only wanted to point out that certain cosmetic choices can have performance consequences.  I work a lot on vintage motorcycles and I prefer to restore castings by vapour blasting or dry ice blasting, never by aggregate blasting.  That's how they left the factory.  I do not clear coat but use metal cleaners on a cold engine judiciously and when needed.  Enjoy your SL - it sure is a beauty and has a great history.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2021, 08:25:14 by hansr433 »
Hans
1963 220SE Cabrio (Exterior: Navy MB 332, Top: Haarz Navy, Interior: 482P Sahara Beige)
1963 BMW R69S

Cees Klumper

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Well the point was to replace the part with a part that was made in the same place as the original.  Not just the same manufacturer and part, but made in the same place too.   :D

I get that, but then how do you know the new MB brake calipers, or any other new genuine parts, are still being manufactured in the same European country as back then? Could well be Hungary now, instead of West Germany then (which no longer exists as a country). And even if the country is still the same, how about the specific city/province etc. Or factory for that matter. I'm just happy with the best performing, best quality part at the lowest price, I guess I am simple that way ;-)
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

CromeYellow

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Just a thought, and not to lead to a continued back and forth on this, but - why go to the trouble of trying to figure out whether a given part should be painted glossy or flat black, and then stick a bunch of parts into the car that do not belong in there?

Over time, the look of the engine compartment looking really good might not matter so very much to one owner who decided that glossy black looks better than flat, but the fact that a non-original-factory part was put in might make a world of difference to another owner.

CromeYellow

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New AC compressor.



Brake job in progress.




Entire exhaust system from manifold back being replaced.




doitwright

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I see you are using the old style York piston type AC compressor and "beast bracket". Nothing wrong with that although most prefer the newer rotary (Sanden) compressor. The rotary is efficient and less drag on the engine.
Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois

1970 280SL Originally Light Ivory - Now Anthracite Gray Metallic

CromeYellow

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All the parts on the car are being retained in original state as much as possible.  For example the exhaust - there are other choices.  The exhaust system put back on there is original, and it cost more than many variations that do not belong on the car.

The AC is being returned to whatever was on there when we (my father) got the car new in 1970, as much as possible.
« Last Edit: March 08, 2021, 04:52:27 by CromeYellow »

CromeYellow

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One of the new AC lines came in.



While he's working behind the dash I am having him remove all traces of the modern stereo I installed.  Now I have to find the original it is someplace just have to find it.  Or put one of those 280SL covers on it and forget about a stereo.

If I forget about the stereo entirely what should I do with the doors?  I can't quite recall the way it is on the originals as far as speakers.  I am going to restore the entire interior anyway.

doitwright

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My understanding is a W113 was delivered with a stereo the Speakers were surface mounted onto the kick panels. They would not have been mounted on the doors. Having an underdash add-on AC system such as the Frigiking will likely limit options with what you can mount in or on the kick panel on the passenger side.
Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois

1970 280SL Originally Light Ivory - Now Anthracite Gray Metallic

GM

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Mine came with Frigiking and a Becker Europa stereo (USA), with no center dash speaker, and two Becker speakers in the kick panels
Gary
1971 280SL - Sold
(98 from the end of production)
DB180 Silver Gray Metallic
Black MB Tex

CromeYellow

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All of the mechanical work has been completed.  Along the way we installed this fan to keep the AC condenser cool.

I actually haven't had a chance to visit the shop yet as I am currently traveling, but he is keeping the car inside and safe for me until I meet with him and decide on the next steps.

Next will restore the exterior and interior.

doitwright

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Did you install the electric fan in addition to or in place of the viscous fan?
Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois

1970 280SL Originally Light Ivory - Now Anthracite Gray Metallic

CromeYellow

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I'll find out later this month when I see the car.  All I know is he sent me the picture of the fan along the way during the work being done, and said that the car was overheating when running the AC before he installed it, and that it is fine now.

lreppond

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A couple of months ago I was in a very similar situation to yours.  My dad purchased a new w113 in January of 1971.  It was given to me a about two years ago after having not been driven for 5 years.  I had the car transported to a shop in Northern CA.  It is well known and well respected especially for its work on w113.  Like you, I asked the mechanic to make the car safe and drivable while keeping it as original as humanly possible. One of the things I had done was everything to do with the braking system with all parts coming from the classic center.  The total brake system replacement including parts, labor and taxes was slightly in excess of $5k.  Knowing the cost of rotors, calipers, etc and labor, I thought it was fair.  To my thinking, $15K for brakes and A/C is rather pricey!  My thinking, however, is irrelevant...it all about how you feel about this.  Do you feel you’re getting value for the dollars spent and are you happy with the work that’s been performed?   If you are, then stick with this mechanic and continue to move forward.  If not, I would look for help elsewhere. 

I applaud you for your efforts this far.  Taking a non running car and breathing new life in it is not only fun but in our cases shows respect and honor for our fathers.


~Len

1971 280 SL
576G red/251 Beige
4 speed manual
Family owned since new (father —> son)

teahead

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These guys are known for their caliper rebuilds.

No need to buy new when these guys will do it right:

https://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog.html
1970 280SL auto, AC - aka "Edelweiss"

Benz Dr.

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Lots of foolish spending on this thread but hey, its only money.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

CromeYellow

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I am happy with the work done and as mentioned, I contacted one or two other mechanics who were suggested to me by others on this forum, and at least one of them stated outright that he would not save me any money and would probably end up charging more.  More than 15K.

It's easy for someone to say that "I could have gotten it done for less," but take the car to someone who isn't willing to hold on it to for months on end while searching for all original parts (no rebuild), isn't willing to keep it always inside, and doesn't really address everything along the way as a complete restoration, not just a mechanic's repair, and at the end of the day you may find that you saved no money at all.

In any case, I tried with two previous mechanics.  The first, charged almost nothing, kept the car a long time (years), and returned it to me in worse shape.  The second, kept the car for a year, charged some, and accomplished nothing.  The third, this one who has the 280SL car now, got the job done and addressed everything along the way as if it were his own car, not just something to be put back together for mere functionality, but something to be restored to showroom condition.

It is a one owner car (my father, and then I, have been the only owners - like lreppond's), and always on the West Coast, so I think it will end up being one of the more coveted 280SLs out there once restored completely.  I have no plans to sell it.
« Last Edit: May 29, 2021, 01:41:15 by CromeYellow »

Nicolas Aristodemou

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It’s surely nice to use original Mercedes parts if money is no object. However, most of these parts as you must be well aware are not made by Mercedes but by specialist manufacturers; such is the example of the ATE brake calipers and rotors which if you by from Mercedes you will get the ATE item at a 2 -3 times the price.

You are certainly doing a top restoration though, my respect….

Regarding AC restoration my opinion is to keep the evaporator for originality but you should replace everything else with modern day equivalents as has been suggested by others. That way you will spend the money and have an effective AC rather than spend more money to get something that is original but does not work well….
Nicolas Aristodemou
Nicosia - CYPRUS
280SL Auto 1970 US spec (W113), 380SL 1982 R107, Citroen DS23 Pallas 1973, Triumph TR4 1963, Triumph Stag 1973, Mini Cooper S Mk1
1965, Jaguar 3.8 Mk2 1962, VW Beetle 1978 Karman Converible, 1987 Ferrari 328GTS

Benz Dr.

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I see little propensity to accept advice here even when the information supplied is more than sound. Almost every car I look at has what I'd call the owner's or restorer's interpretation of what they think everything should look like.

 A lot of new MB parts won't even look like the originals or have the same finishes so that's a poor way to gauge originality but then almost everyone thinks that what they have is more than what it really is. One of the nicest restored cars I've ever seen, a green California Coupe, had all of the fine detail required that brought it up to number one level. I just don't see that here.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

Garry

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Having read all this thread, i am not sure what is trying to be achieved here.  Lots of discussion on originality then polished rocker covers and more discussion on heat dissipation, some discussion on adding a Sanden compressor for the air conditioner to relieve stress and improve efficiency vs the older compressors, discussion on buying parts from original factories etc and on getting the best 280 on the West Coast and then we get to the latter posts and have heat problems and adding non original fan to keep it all cool.

I agree with Dan, lots of dollars are being spent with a dubious outcome.
But as always said on the forum, its your car and you do what you want with it, but it appears you cannot have it both ways.
« Last Edit: May 29, 2021, 22:43:39 by Garry »
Garry Marks
Melbourne/ Kyneton, Brisbane. Australia
1969 MB 280SL 5 speed RHD SOLD.
1965 MB 230SL Auto RHD Lt Blue 334G, Top 350H, 213 Leather, Tourist Delivery.
1972 MB 280CE Auto RHD 906G Blue Grey
2005 MB A200.
2006 MB B200
2019 Izuzu DMax 4x4 with Slide-on camper.
2022 Volvo XC40 Twin Electric

CromeYellow

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I polished a couple parts but otherwise everything in the car is original, as in matching what was in the car before.  As a one owner car it's not hard to trace what should be in the car.  The car has almost no miles on it to speak of, so many of the parts were from Day One, and simply had to be replaced with identical, is all.  Wasn't hard.

I discount what the people who claim what should be in the car have to say, unless they can really trace it back in a one owner vehicle.

ja17

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You never know these days what is original. I recently changed the original spark plugs on my SLK32 , 2002. The car is low mileage and I bought it new. The spark plugs were what was installed when the car was built new at the factory. I removed the first spark plug and it had a nice blue Mercedes Star on one side. On the other side it said "NGK" made in Japan. I bought some Bosch spark plugs for another car the other day and they were marked Bosch "made in Russia".  I ordered some wheel hubs with wheel bearings installed for another job (modern Mercedes "E" class), they came from the dealer in Mercedes factory packaging. The wheel hubs were made by Mercedes and were complete with the bearings which were marked "made in Japan".
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

CromeYellow

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Engine now running perfectly after all mechanical work completed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDeRpeCyzmw&t=0s

Pretty much everything has been replaced, clutch, entire brake system, engine rebuilt top and bottom, including any needed engine parts, AC system, etc.
« Last Edit: June 21, 2021, 03:31:59 by CromeYellow »

CromeYellow

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The story on the fan https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=32603.msg242762#msg242762 - the engine was not actually overheating when the AC was run.  However, a technician advised us that in these cars the engine will overheat if the AC is run in stop and go traffic, and advised adding this fan.  Any testing now with AC running shows the engine running cool.
« Last Edit: June 21, 2021, 03:40:28 by CromeYellow »

CromeYellow

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Some touch up work remains underside.




















That's all oil based paint used on the underside.


The car will now proceed to a complete restoration inside and out, including any needed replacement of chrome and trim inside and out, concours d'elegance level paint job, and replacement of upholstery and carpet.
« Last Edit: June 21, 2021, 03:35:30 by CromeYellow »

JamesL

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Would it not make more sense to have done the paint before all the drivetrain work went on?
James L
Oct69 RHD 280 in DB906 with cognac leather