Author Topic: Frigiking AC cosmetics  (Read 2540 times)

GM

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Frigiking AC cosmetics
« on: June 23, 2020, 21:38:49 »
Working through the to-do list while in quarantine...
I've read the Tech Manual and all the posts on the subject of Frigiking AC removal, but none appear to address my issue.
My Frigiking AC was re-done by the PO with a rotary compressor, new hoses, and it works perfectly. Unfortunately, while the unit was being re-built, they didn't worry about the cosmetic items. Besides a missing Frigiking placard, a few of the vents are off-kilter, and the bottom "knee" pad that runs the length of the unit is messed up, so it needs to be recovered.
Here's the question for the experts: can I simply lower the unit in the cabin to work on these items without disconnecting the hoses through the firewall? Is there enough slack in the hoses to do this? Or is this a total AC removal job?
Hoping for good news...
Thanks
Gary
1971 280SL - Sold
(98 from the end of production)
DB180 Silver Gray Metallic
Black MB Tex

doitwright

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Re: Frigiking AC cosmetics
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2020, 00:43:24 »
You should be able to get the evaporator core free from the housing without disconnecting the refrigerant lines. Just be careful with pulling out the capillary tube in the evaporator that connects to the thermostat control. Cosmetic plates are available from the usual sources. There are also a few processes that provide a chrome look on plastic for the vents. If the padded enclosure is bent, cracked or sagging, some have covered it with material that matched to padded dash components.
Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois

1970 280SL Originally Light Ivory - Now Anthracite Gray Metallic

Shvegel

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Re: Frigiking AC cosmetics
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2020, 01:26:16 »
Look for Vacuum Metalizing online. Here is the tricky part.  You need to remove the black vanes and lever from the assembly.  Vanes are very easy but the lever is almost impossible without breaking it.  I am thinking the best might be to leave the lever and paint it black after metalizing.  If you need to replace any grilles your best and cheapest bet is to start looking for 1970 Ford F-100 UNDERDASH units.  If the lever has to come out to get the vanes out and you break it (I broke 2) Permatex Plastic Mender is a great adhesive.  Stinky but good.
« Last Edit: June 25, 2020, 03:35:39 by Shvegel »

GM

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Re: Frigiking AC cosmetics
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2020, 16:33:36 »
Thank you, gentlemen! Appreciate it!
Gary
1971 280SL - Sold
(98 from the end of production)
DB180 Silver Gray Metallic
Black MB Tex

GM

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Re: Frigiking AC cosmetics
« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2020, 22:16:42 »
Has anyone tried these "paint-on" chrome products? Looks like the chemistry has become interesting as a possible option to vacuum metalizing?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBtdU10PIcE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6kypid0XG0
Gary
1971 280SL - Sold
(98 from the end of production)
DB180 Silver Gray Metallic
Black MB Tex

doitwright

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Re: Frigiking AC cosmetics
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2020, 01:36:37 »
I used a similar producti to what is shown in the 1st video a few years ago on a tail light reflector. Unlike older variations of “chrome paint” you could see a reflection off the surface. Not quite as reflective as chrome or the original reflector in my left tail light, but acceptable for my purpose. I do remember that with the product I used, some post spray buffing with a soft cloth was required.

The 2nd video demonstrates a product that seems highly reflective. It would be interesting to get more information since their comments section is disabled.

There are other more sophisticated spray on chrome products that are highly reflective but require special equipment a processes to apply. For a DIY system, what you found might be worth a try.
« Last Edit: June 30, 2020, 01:45:20 by doitwright »
Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois

1970 280SL Originally Light Ivory - Now Anthracite Gray Metallic