looking to get rid of the diapers

[russelljones48]

I've got an oil/fluid leak somewhere in the front of the engine.  I'm just looking for the usual suspects.  I can't really tell the color and there could, of course, be more than one but I'd like to eliminate the most likely suspects.  It looks like it's front right somewhere below the valve cover but the PS pump, which was what I expected, doesn't seem to be it.  The distributor drive cover is suspiciously oily but that could be because the oil is being blown around.  Cleaning it up enough to identify the source would be a LOT of work after 50 some years of oil and dirt...  it's been pressure washed once so it's only really dirty/oily  ;-) 

[Vander]

What about the engine oil cooler mounted next to the radiator? This is in front of the distributor.

[Benz Dr.]

Good chance it's the front crank seal.

[Jonny B]

Double check the cover on the PS reservoir is tight. That one caught me out, finally one day I just tried the wing nut on the top of the reservoir and the darn thing was loose as could be. Fluid would splash out during driving, then drip on the floor for a short time, then gone.

[russelljones48]

Thanks to all responses

I checked the reservoir and that's probably not it... 

so, tell me about the front crank seal - I put it up on the lift and there's nice fresh oil coming down from behind the harmonic balancer.  And the overall distribution of the oil is to both sides of the motor.  Can't find much on this site on an R&R for the seal and it looks from the pic like a 2 piece seal.  Assuming that the crank isn't grooved - what's required for the R&R?  Hours and degree of difficulty?  Can it be done without pulling the motor? 

[Chris Long]

I did it over the holiday break.

It’s manageable by ones self with the car on a ramp. You do need to remove the radiator, fan and viscous coupling.

Basic automotive tools including breaker bar, Allen keys and torque wrench. I did need to use a chain to hold the harmonic balancer as it takes a lot to undo the bolt.

Along with the seal you need to buy the sleeve. There are guides on here as to how do it. Eg which bits to grease and which to use permatex.

In addition there are some jobs to do salt the same time like replace the water pump.

Good luck.

[franjo_66]

I had a similar experience trying to find an oil leak that at first seemed to be coving from the front crank seal. Replaced this but still had oil coming from the front somewhere.

Finally traced it to the sump mating on the lower engine block. Sometime long ago, the PO had sealed this with silicone instead of the special sealant required. Big job to remove and reseal properly. But no more leaks or oil residue

[russelljones48]

Thanks again all..  Dr. Benz wins the prize..  ooops sorry just ran out of prizes  ...  Degreased, power washed the whole lower front, drove it 6 miles home, put it up on the lift and voila!!  small oil stream from the front seal.  ordered sleeve and seal (MBZ parts) from Pelican. 

Looks straight forward enough but are there any cautions or gotchas? Don't want to take too much apart or too little...  I've got the 2 volume service manuals (blue/green books) the 03-01 and 03-02 instructions are a little terse.  and I can't find the radiator removal (50) at all...  First time I've tried to use these manuals...   



 

[Pawel66]

There are threads related to this job on the forum, e.g.:

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=19919.msg140651#msg140651

Radiator needs to go out, posts are there too on this, e.g.:

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=14334.msg97614#msg97614

If you decide to go up with the radiator, there are important tips on bonnet removal, e.g. the one from mbzse:

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=30649.msg222830#msg222830

[Chris Long]

Water pump while you are there was the consensus.

[russelljones48]

You guys are great!!  Thanks - I think that covers all of the procedures required and I have the WP on the way..  Also decided to have the PS pump seals on hand in case I need them..   Since I have a lift I'll try taking the radiator out the bottom even though I have a (non-working) AC system.  I'll update the post with results..

[doitwright]

How is your main seal replacement going? You mentioned that you have a non working AC. Now that you are taking all the parts off the front to get access to the seal and may also rebuild your PS pump, you are at a good point to replace (if needed) the old AC compressor if it is the piston type (York) with a rotary (Sanden) compressor. I would also scrap the old serpentine condenser for a new parallel flow version. I just know many people put this off getting their AC working because of the work to get to the compressor.

[russelljones48]

My status is incomplete and frustrated.  Waiting on parts or should I say more parts.  For those who are interested Pelican doesn't apparently understand that MB made a 1967 230 SL - they only list a '66 230SL.  Makes it hard to find and order the right parts.  Buds is more helpful but slow and limited in terms of selection.  All-in-all it's been a bit of a kerfuffle.  I have a fair amount of amatuer inflicted damage to some parts - some not-so-good older repairs.  I'll detail the adventure when it's complete. 

here's the requested pics of all the parts that came off. 

[russelljones48]

some tips and observations so I don't forget them later.

My car (1967 230SL) has a straight shaft PS pump.  Although I took it out to fully assess it and to clean it and the mounting area thoroughly.  In hindsight or if I ever have to replace another seal I would leave it in the car.  The pulley just tapped of easily after I took the nut off the shaft and the seal was easy to remove with a small screwdriver in a punched hole.  Keep in mind that my car is a Ca. car so it has almost zero rust anywhere.

My aftermarket AC would have left some of the cooling system maintenance virtually impossible (short bypass hose) so I'm quite glad I made the decision to remove it.  I'll evaluate the installation of a modern system at a later date and after driving the car without all of that weight in the nose. 

Make sure if you want to order parts before you start the work that you get the right water pump.  I ordered the wrong one on the first try - see the comments on Pelican.  Bud's has a good description of the WP options.

On the debate to remove the hood or not..  I decided NOT since I don't like setting/adjusting body gaps - my experience is that it's hard and most often takes a village and I work alone mostly..  However, I have a lift which made my choice much easier - I was up and down on the lift several times.  If I didn't have the lift I think removing the hood would have been the better option.

OH and order more than one crankshaft seal and seal type.  I'm now waiting on seals.  The first one refused to go in the hole.  I've also ordered some very big washers so I can tap on it as squarely as possible.  As mentioned a previous repair left the crank with some nicks in it and I had to order a MB style spacer puller tool to get the old spacer off.  Once I had the spacer off I very carefully filed and smoothed the crank nose making sure to get no debris in the pan.  That allowed the new one to slide on more easily and seal better.  I heated my ring a bit and it just popped on.     

[russelljones48]

Can anybody give me the torque specs for the water pump housing to block M8 bolts (3 ea.) and the water pump to housing M6's (6 ea.)?    THANKS

[russelljones48]

another question...  there's a small ground strap on my car that runs from the headbolt near the base of the distributor to somewhere.  I thought it was attached to the radiator brace but it doesn't seem to fit there and I don't have a  pic of that area...  can anyone help?

[russelljones48]

OK, it's back together and running but I've discovered yet another leak - amazing what you find when you get the engine all cleaned up..  it's the valve cover - so I have ordered the gasket and will replace.  In the mean time I've tightened to bolts (10 ft. lb.) to try and stem the flow - it was pretty loose.

Some more ah hahs..  Apparently the AC kit that was on the car required moving the alternator so it took me a while to get the right fan belt..  mine is about 50MM (10 X 875MM) shorter than the stock belt. 

the high pressure PS hose is a bit of a problem to install - seems the parts suppliers are trying to use a hose that's really not designed specifically for our cars and requires being pretty severe twist to install.  I had the best luck starting the pump end and then the steering box end. 

And I have yet another question - there's a short hose that runs from the WP housing to a heater fitting/Y.  It has a larger end on the WP housing (~3/4" and a smaller (5/8") end on the Y fitting.    was unable to find a replacement hose - does anyone have a solution?  Should I stretch some 5/8" hose over the WP end?






 

[specracer]

My car had that done, and it leaked. I bought the set from Authentic Classics, but seems like you can buy hoses individually

Is this it?

https://www.authenticclassics.com/Cooling-system-Hose-Fits-late-280SL-others-p/auth-008124.htm

And I have yet another question - there's a short hose that runs from the WP housing to a heater fitting/Y.  It has a larger end on the WP housing (~3/4" and a smaller (5/8") end on the Y fitting.    was unable to find a replacement hose - does anyone have a solution?  Should I stretch some 5/8" hose over the WP end?






 

[russelljones48]

smaller hose on the left in the pic.  coming from the WP housing and transitioning to the heater hose.  I think the one you posted is from the later 280 my car is a late 230 1967.  Thanks for the try :-)

[russelljones48]

thanks..   looks like it's 108 831 03 94   common to the engine and several chassis..  I've ordered 1 - so we'll see

[specracer]

Glad you got what you needed. We have a later 280, the Authentic Classic kit was EVERYTHING I needed (even had 2 hoses left over?).

[russelljones48]

I bought and installed the firewall and hose kit from him.  I haven't been really pleased with his customer service and some of his parts (fuses) but he's a decent source.  I've got my fingers crossed on this hose