Yesterday I was going for a short-ish drive (about 7 miles each way) to put fresh gas into my Pagoda that had sat idle for 1.5 years, with gas stabilizer in its tank. The car ran great and strong. Then, on the way back from the gas station, after about 10 miles total driving, the engine died very suddenly, as if I turned the key off. It stayed off for about 2 seconds, then started again as if nothing had happened. About 2 miles later it happened again, this time it did not restart and after pulling over I could not start it back up either. The starter did its best, but nothing. After I let it sit for maybe 2-3 minutes, it started up straight away as if nothing had happened, and I was able to ride the remaining mile or so home without a hitch.
A few years back, my ignition switch started to act up, and starting became more and more 'hit and miss', until it would no longer start the car at all. I hotwired a starting button as a temporary solution.
So now my theory is that the switch is failing further and now the normal 'position 2' that activates the ignition system, fuel pump etc, is also on its way out. My issue yesterday could be fuel related, but it was so abrupt that I most suspect an electrical issue. It could also be a fuse that isn't making good contact so I will clean those up as well, but I would like your opinion on these symptoms. And as I need to replace my ignition switch anyway, I started looking for a new one.
There seem to be two types offered for the 1969 280 SL: one with screw on terminals (€280) and one for a multi-prong connector (€70) that purports to work for all W113. Does Anyone know which type I should order? I know I need to disassemble the dash to get to it so will find out soon enough, but was just wondering if I can order one or the other safely now already.
UPDATE - last night I installed the new switch. That was an involved job, all gauges had to be removed. Anyway, because of the new switch I can now start the car normally again, whuch is nice, however on a test drive this morning the car stalled once again, proving the switch was not the culprit. I then swapped the coil, but that too made no difference. Still erratic stalling once the engine warmed up. Finally I was able to replicate the problem by manipulating the thin wires going from the coil to the 123 distributor when the engine was running. On closer inspection, I saw the negative wire's spade terminal was not crimped on properly and was a bit loose. Replaced that connection, and now no more stalling. I knew it had to be in the ignition circuit, and am very happy I was able to track down the cause.
