Omitting the round "nicht werfen" relay

[FresnoBob]

I've confirmed my relay #1 is activating both the fuel enrichment solenoid and intake manifold solenoid, but from reading the Starting Aids guide, I believe my model III 230 SL would start better if the 1 second relay was omitted.  Is this a correct assumption and what should be connected to enable the round relay to be omitted? 

[Rick]

As time went on,  the factory found that supplying a squirt of fuel via the manifold valve was useful.   They provided an extra relay  add-on kit for subsequent installation which would operate this valve for a short squirt even after the engine was hot.  What problems are you having?   I have found that this extra fuel is generally a good thing for starting.  Have you verified the operation of the valve and the time which it is open?

Some have added a manual pushbutton under the dash to open that manifold valve as needed if difficult starts are being experienced.

[ja17]

So if you think your engine might start better when hot without the 1 second relay, you might want to try a test. Try unplugging the CSV relay when hot starting. Next try unplugging the IP solenoid relay for the next hot start. Finally unplug both and try a hot start. Relay to us the information.

[FresnoBob]

I've suffered cold and hot start issues since pulling my car out of its 20 year storage.  My observations:

This is a Version III 230 SL, with one relay for both the CSV and enrichment solenoid.  It also has the round one-second relay, which I believe provides 1 second of operation for both solenoids no matter what the thermo/time switch says. 

I installed a new thermo/time switch from Bud's. 

Initially, I found 6.2 volts momentarily at the CSV using a Fluke multimeter.  Now, after fiddling with the relays, there is no voltage at the CSV.   The car started better when the CSV was working (obviously). 

The fuel enrichment solenoid is not working as when I follow the starting aids tour, by shorting both leads when the car is idling hot, the car doesn't over enrich and stall. 

The car starts poorly now both hot and cold. 

I removed the first relay, the second relay and both relays as suggested by Joe, but no change to hot starting was observed. 

I've taken apart the round one second relay and both fine wires are still in contact, but I can't figure out if the contacts are supposed to be open and then close, or vice versa.  It doesn't seem to change no matter what I do, so I suspect it isn't working.  Can you buy this relay anywhere?

Any suggestions are most welcomed. 

[ja17]

Check the fuses first. Look them over and twist each one.  Next you can check each starting device to make sure it is functional. Start and warm the engine. At idle with a positive jumper wire, activate each starting device one at a time. If the engine stall out then the device itself is able to function. If the devices work, we will go onto the electricals. Get back with us.

[FresnoBob]

Hi Joe,

Yes I confirmed both the enrichment solenoid and cold start valve will stall the engine if you jump them. 

I've been trying to adjust the one second relay and feel it is operating for roughly 1 second. 

Particularly when the car is warm, it cranks for a while and then starts if you give it some gas through the accelerator pedal. 

I've inspected the WRD and it isn't stuck and moves freely. 

When the car is cold, it will start fairly well, but idles at 700 rpm.  I would have thought the car would idle higher when cold, but I haven't found how that is adjusted. 

Best wishes,

Bob

[andyburns]

Bob did you replace your spark plugs.  I had the same issue and that's all it was.  Especially if you have been playing around at idle for long periods trying to sort this they become fuel saturated and no amount of effort seem to return them to a fit state.  Plugs are cheap.

[FresnoBob]

Thanks Andy - yes, I have changed to several different sets of spark plugs, but they all seem to perform similarly.  I even tried a set of "Irridium" plugs, without much difference in performance.