Author Topic: 1966 230SL Enginer Rebuild (2)  (Read 1804 times)

Harry

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1966 230SL Enginer Rebuild (2)
« on: January 02, 2019, 00:56:22 »
So here are some photos with captions.
The first photo shows a large bolt entering the front of the block and going through what appears to be a bushing with holes in it.  What is this and do I simply unbolt the bolt?  This picture also shows one of the two each bronze bushings for the horizontal timing gear, with a 10 mm bolt and large washer appearing to lock the front bushing in place.  How are these removed?

The second photo shows the passenger side of the block.  Looks like these are two access plates to the coolant cavity(s).  I plan to simply remove the SHCS's and take those off.

The third photo shows the drivers side of the block.  Looks like there are two large SHCS's, and I will plan to leave those alone - OK?  This photo also shows the phenolic(?) spacer for the FIP.  How does that come off?
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic

ja17

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Re: 1966 230SL Enginer Rebuild (2)
« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2019, 04:15:17 »
I would leave the two large hex socket plugs alone unless extensive water passage cleaning is needed. The phenolic spacer is a heat insulator for the injection pump. Remove it. The two large metal plates with small hex socket screws are freeze protection and can be removed so the block water passages can be cleaned. If they are "puffed-out" from previous freezing, replace them. The small hex socket plug in the front chain gallery plugs a oil gallery and should be removed for cleaning. There are two similar oil gallery hex socket plugs on the rear of the block which also should be removed.  The 10mm bolt with washer in the chain gallery locks the large bronze bushing in place. Remove it and the bushing.  The large  hex bolt on the starter side of the block is the main coolant drain for the engine block, remove it also. Don't forget to put all the oil gallery plugs back in during assembly!!  Also the phenolic IP spacer will need a new paper gasket on each side.
« Last Edit: January 02, 2019, 05:28:28 by ja17 »
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Harry

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Re: 1966 230SL Enginer Rebuild (2)
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2019, 11:53:50 »
Thanks Joe.

I'll look at your response more closely when I'm back in the garage with the engine in front of me.  So the phenolic FIP insulator should just pull out?  (It seems to be pretty securely in place as is.)

How is the other bronze bushing for the VTG removed?

Also, what about the large bolt in the first photo titled "Bolt through bushing"?  Is that essentially a spray nozzle for the chain gallery?  If so, I guess it also needs to be removed, as well as the "bushing" it passes through inside the cavity.  Is that right?

Harry
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic

mbzse

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Re: 1966 230SL Enginer Rebuild (2)
« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2019, 17:39:19 »
Quote from: Harry
.../...the large bolt in the first photo titled "Bolt through bushing".../...
Oil pressure relief valve. Remove and clean this (or exchange it)
/Hans S

Harry

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Re: 1966 230SL Enginer Rebuild (2)
« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2019, 20:06:39 »
Thanks again.
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic

ja17

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Re: 1966 230SL Enginer Rebuild (2)
« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2019, 21:33:57 »
Yes, good advice from Hans on the oil pressure relief valve. Also the oil pressure relief valve is screwed into the end of an oil gallery which also should be cleaned before re-assembly.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Harry

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Re: 1966 230SL Enginer Rebuild (2)
« Reply #6 on: January 07, 2019, 12:44:50 »
My block is almost bare now, except for a few bronze bushings that I need to remove - 2 ea for the horizontal timing gear, and 1 for the vertical timing gear.  (Does that sound right?)

The HTG bushing towards the front of the engine is the one with the 10mm bolt and large washer.  I removed those and the bushing is still pretty solidly in place.  It has two flats on it which I haven't tried to use.  Does it screw out once the bolt/washer is removed?

Then what about removing the other two?  How are those removed (and do they need to be to clean the block)?

Thanks again,
Harry
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
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ja17

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Re: 1966 230SL Enginer Rebuild (2)
« Reply #7 on: January 07, 2019, 16:46:52 »
The horizontal bushing will just slide out the front once the 10mm bolt with washer is removed. You may need to carefully drive it out with a suitable tool.  The two vertical bushings are pressed in place. When removed they most likely will need replaced with new. Consider checking them and leaving them in place if they are not worn. If you need to remove those, just have the machine shop install the new ones for you. Make the timing gear available to them so they can check the fit afterward.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Harry

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Re: 1966 230SL Enginer Rebuild (2)
« Reply #8 on: January 07, 2019, 17:27:12 »
Thanks again Joe.  You're such a valuable resource to have accessible.

I need to look again/harder because I thought I saw two bushings for the HTG and one for the VTG.  You speak to two for the VTG?  Is the rear bushing for the HTG pressed in as well.  Lastly, are these still available?

Harry
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic