Special tool for the rear end U-Joint bearing

[CJHenderson]

Does anyone know where I can purchase the spanner socket to remove the rear end U-Joint?

[Shvegel]

Sir Tools M0030

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=SIRM0030

If you are going farther than changing the seal it would be best if you would remove the left side axle tube and differential center section and use a big C clamp or bar clamp to clamp between the socket wrench and the end of the pinion to keep the socket engaged.

Your flange holding arrangement worries me.  The torque need to loosen and again tighten the pinion could very easily bend the bolt and break either the seal holder or the housing itself.  A piece of flat steel(1-1/2" X 1/4" X 18" long) bolted through two holes in the flange with the other end resting on the bench would be better.   You'll have to grind a notch where the socket goes.   

If you are not experienced with rear axle repairs let us know what you are replacing and I will post a more detailed description.

[CJHenderson]

Just ordered the socket, thank you so much for directing me to that site. The rear end is in good condition but the seals are in need of replacing.

[swood1]

If you are not experienced with rear axle repairs let us know.

Hi Shvegel,

Out of interest what is the best source for learning how to strip and rebuild the rear axle for someone new to it but keen to learn?  I have the BBB and suppose my first step should be looking through this and seeing if there is a step by step guide followed by the Haynes manual.  At the moment the rear axle is still on the car because I am dubious of removing it with the horizontal spring still in place.

This is something I would like to do once I get the body all sorted on my own car.  I don't know the history of the car so would rather ensure all seals are replaced where required.  I have already rebuilt the power steering pump and power steering gearbox in between sorting the body.


Regards

Steven

[Shvegel]

Honestly, Looking at it from your perspective if it isn't making noise replace the seals and let it be.  The bearings are rarely bad and the chance of missing a step and making it worse can be very high.  Our rear axles are unlike any other axles so any videos or general repair guides will not apply.  The pinion seal can get a little tricky but the side seals and wheel bearings(You have to pull them in order to replace the outer side seals). are pretty straightforward. 

[Shvegel]

Ok,
Set the rear end up flat,  Remove brake calipers and rotors or if it is a drum brake car remove the drums.  For your own reference put the socket on a beam type INCH pound torque wrench and see how much torque it takes to keep the pinion turning.  Not the breakaway torques but the rolling torque.  You cannot use a "Click" type wrench for this.  The cheapest way to go is one like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-M195-Newton-meter-Torque/dp/B00SNICDJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522266433&sr=8-1&keywords=beam+type+inch+pound+torque+wrench

You will also need adaptors to get from the 1/4" drive of the wrench to the 1/2" of the socket.

Nut off, flange off (Slip fit), seal housing off, replace seal, replace seal housing using appropriate sealer between the housing and the seal housing.  I use Locktite 515.


  Install flange, install nut finger tight or slightly above.  tighten the nut in tiny increments of just a couple degrees at a time checking the rolling torque with your torque wrench until the rolling resistance is at 17.4 to 21.7 inch pounds(Aim for the high side).  I had you check the initial rolling resistance because if it is higher that 21.7 inch pounds you may have to replace the crush sleeve which can be an icky job.  I can't stress enough that the nut is tightened in tiny increments because it is very easy to overtighten the nut and overcrush the bearings.  Once you do that you cannot back it off you have to replace the crush sleeve.

[A Dalton]

Some simple seal info:

Make sure the vent is not plugged

Use a double lip seal, as the flange is usually worn with a ring depression from the oem single lip seal.  This gets you to a new surface with a least one lip.

 Make sure the axles are not hanging when checking fluid level.

 And if the rear is good and the turning torque is good, you can index the pinion nut to go back exactly as removed.

 You can also use a string and a fish pull scale to make a before/after comparison.

 Snap-on inch/lbs  torque-o-meter if best tool for this job.

And if the seal was leaking for somewtime, look to see if the pivot pin is still centered in the rubber hanger  mount.  Leaking seals rot the rubber buffer interior of the mount and the clue is an off centered pivot pin in the mount.
This mount can be changed in the car. need be................