Author Topic: Matti´s 280SL (Read 40716 times)

swood1 · « **Reply #25 on:** September 04, 2017, 20:19:41 »

Wow that bodywork looks mint. How did you remove all the paint/undercoat? I was looking into dipping my shell.

Steve.

mercakungen · « **Reply #26 on:** September 05, 2017, 07:23:17 »

Steve,

I used a Scotch-Brite clean and strip disc to remove the paint. It´s flexible and very effective. I used only one 200 mm disc for all four fenders.
For undercoat I used a heat gun and several different chisels and scrapers. I´m gonna sand blast the body before epoxy primer.

Matti

swood1 · « **Reply #27 on:** September 26, 2017, 22:20:51 »

Sorry for delay in reply, I struggled to find this original thread after commenting on it.

I shall have to look into getting some of these pads. Looks a good option.

Steve.

mercakungen · « **Reply #28 on:** November 22, 2017, 09:17:07 »

Hello,

Some progress has been achieved.

Matti

mercakungen · « **Reply #29 on:** November 22, 2017, 09:21:59 »

No lead, all steel (factory original).

johnk · « **Reply #30 on:** November 22, 2017, 18:07:04 »

Hi Matti

thanks for sharing the pics!. I am also doing a rotisserie restoration myself and are close to where you are at in the process.

I didn't realize before that you had a Mark II. Can you tell us a little about it? It was my dream car in high-school and in fact I bought a basket case 1956 that turned out to be the first production Mark II. It thought it was at the time but couldn't prove it because the original production records for the Mark II's were lost at the Ford Museum at the time. They found the records years after I sold it and proved it was the 1st. Its on my bucket list to drive one someday.

John

mercakungen · « **Reply #31 on:** November 23, 2017, 06:26:11 »

Hi John,

I bought my MK II from California in 2006. I drove it until autumn 2008 when I started a frame of/rotisserie restoration. It took six and a half years to get the project finished. I can tell you that the build quality of these car is very poor and very overrated. After restoring couple of Mercedes the "quality" was quite a shock to me. I turned my car into a mild custom. The MK II was the first American car I have ever owned.
Since my MK II is very late example of production I wonder how bad is/was the first one? Did your MK II had celebrity owner?
I can add some pics to the "other cars" section if interested.

Matti

Garry · « **Reply #32 on:** November 23, 2017, 10:45:59 »

That is an interesting collection of cars, I would love to see some photos of your VW T 1 beatle in the other cars area..

Garry

mercakungen · « **Reply #33 on:** November 27, 2017, 08:08:12 »

Hello,

The body is now epoxy primed. I´ll let the epoxy dry at least two weeks before I add any filler on it.

Matti

mercakungen · « **Reply #34 on:** January 30, 2018, 11:44:54 »

Hello,

I got the first patch of parts back from plating. Yellow ones are okay but blue/clear parts are too bright and shiny. I don´t know what to do with them yet. Some parts will be painted as they were from the factory.

I managed to find 3,46:1 rear end gears. Brand new Mercedes Benz original parts. So I will go from 3,92:1 to 3,46:1 in the future.

Matti

doitwright · « **Reply #35 on:** January 30, 2018, 15:42:47 »

Matti,

It looks like you are making great progress on your restoration.

Why did you choose to have the parts in the lower photo plated rather than go straight to prime and paint?

Looks like you are keeping everything neatly organized. I would like to see your file on how you documented where every piece, nut and bolt came from.

How did you prepare your hardware before sending to the plater?

Thanks for sharing your progress.

mercakungen · « **Reply #36 on:** January 31, 2018, 09:37:24 »

Frank,

Zinc plating is really cheap and extra protection does not make any harm. Epoxy primer I´ll use for these parts is especially made for zinc and aluminium surfaces.

I have found that my memory is getting shorter and shorter... I need to organize this project somehow to get it finished. I have taken over 1500 photos during dismantle process. I have sorted photos in several files as engine, body, interior... to make future use of them easier. Few example of my "documentation". One photo of my "storage" also. Every box has own inventory list in it.

As preparation for these parts I did remove all paint and thick grease/grime/glue/under coating, nothing else.

Matti

swood1 · « **Reply #37 on:** March 27, 2018, 20:19:09 »

Hi Matti,

What is the red paint you are using? Is it a red oxide primer?

Steven

mercakungen · « **Reply #38 on:** March 28, 2018, 06:02:31 »

Hi Steven,

The red and the white/almond are the same, just different color. Both are epoxy primer for industrial use.

Teknoplast primer 5 (old name Inerta primer 5), It´s a Finnish product, the brand is Teknos.

Matti

mercakungen · « **Reply #39 on:** July 31, 2018, 08:31:55 »

Hello,

Another vacation has been spent in my garage... Almost ready for paint shop. Switched from 050 to 906.

BR,
Matti

Iconic · « **Reply #40 on:** July 31, 2018, 15:10:07 »

Matti,
Thank you for sharing (sorry for being repetitive, I've said that before).
This string is extremely valuable given the fantastic condition of the car you started with.
I'm going to copy some of the pictures. I hope you don't mind. The notch pictures are invaluable.
Also, I don't remember you mentioning 906 before.
I'm thrilled there will be another 906 Pagoda in the world.

So, you personally are painting all of the less important surfaces as in the pictures and then off to a paint shop for the exterior?? Is that what you are doing? Or, are you painting the exterior too?
Mark

mercakungen · « **Reply #41 on:** August 01, 2018, 04:37:07 »

Mark,

No, I don`t mind. Feel free to use pictures.
I did n`t mentioned about 906 before because I was n`t sure which color to choose. I only knew it would not be 050 and it would be a metallic color. I will keep 040 on the hard top and will paint hub caps with same color.
The exterior will be painted by an professional painter in a proper painting booth.

BR,
Matti

mercakungen · « **Reply #42 on:** August 29, 2018, 08:08:13 »

Hello,

I did paint some parts before starting final sanding of the body. I used PPG Deltron DG with matte additive (on epoxy primer).

Black "dirt" on the body is guide powder for dry sanding.

mercakungen · « **Reply #43 on:** October 16, 2018, 05:28:21 »

Hello,

Finally painted. I am happy with the result.

BR,
Matti

johnk · « **Reply #44 on:** October 16, 2018, 22:34:29 »

It looks beautiful.

I see that you painted the engine compartment and jambs separately. I am considering doing the same to save the stress of trying to mount and dismount doors and the hood between the basecoat and clear coat.

Jonny B · « **Reply #45 on:** October 16, 2018, 23:30:04 »

Very nice! The door gaps on the passenger side look quite excellent.

mercakungen · « **Reply #46 on:** October 19, 2018, 05:25:29 »

Thank you guys.

The doors were mounted during the painting. The painter did open the doors to get B-pillars/posts painted. Other lids are painted separately.

The door caps are as perfect as they can be with original fenders. So they are not perfect (4 - 4,5 mm). I have not done the final adjustment yet because i´m gonna dismount the doors one more time.

BR,
Matti

mercakungen · « **Reply #47 on:** November 09, 2018, 07:47:28 »

The old 3,92 an the new 3,46

mercakungen · « **Reply #48 on:** November 09, 2018, 07:53:38 »

I used my milling machine to measure the pinion depth.

mercakungen · « **Reply #49 on:** November 09, 2018, 07:57:56 »

I used a spring scale for measuring the bearing preload. Not high tech but works. The back lash can be measured via drain hole with this kind of dial gauge.

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Author Topic: Matti´s 280SL (Read 40716 times)