Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: mercakungen on March 06, 2017, 10:09:15
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Hi Everyone,
Here´s some pics of my 280SL which I bought on my 40th birthday in 2008.
050 White, 249 bamboo leather/brown carpet, parchment soft top, no hard top ordered
426, 461, 491, 503, 533, 551, 591
I´m aware of most of the flaws/not correct things but any help from you is appreciated. My future plan is to do rotisserie restoration. Flaws I know:
- Low quality paint job
- Wrong color interior but I kind of like i.
- Sun visors, steering wheel pad and arm rest are covered with leather. Home made arm rest on center console
- The shifter knob should be same color as the steering wheel?
- Euro halogen headlights, not gonna change these
- Side markers are removed, holes filled with bondo
- Some details on the engine bay are in wrong color
BR,
Matti
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Welcome to the group Matti. Your car looks great and I like your interior colour. Personally I wouldn't change it as it looks to still be in excellent shape. You might also want to paint your hub caps so they match your hard top. Can't tell what colour it is. I love two tone cars.
Hopefully you aren't planning to put back the side marker lights. Again personal preference but I like the cleaner look without them. I would also get rid of the over riders (bumper guards) but some like the look.
If you replace the shift knob with an ivory one (yes it should) get yourself some touchup paint from MB and paint the plastic tip of your hand brake. I believe the tips are suppose to be either black or ivory, depending on the colour of your steering wheel.
And the data plate on the passengers side inside fender should be on the firewall.
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Hi Matti,
your car looks great, welcome to the group!
...WRe
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Your car looks great. Unless there are any rust problems underneath I would keep it as is. A full restoration will cost a lot and take away from driving it for quite a while.
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Absolutely - welcome to the group!
I also like the color combination. I have always liked white, just a classic kind of look.
Did you purchase a hardtop after you got the car, or did it come with the black top? Per the data plate by the hood latch, there was no top from the factory. The line with the 050 G (white) then three dashes (which would give the hardtop color if present) and then a single dash (indicating no hardtop fitted) indicates that. So the white hubcaps would have been proper for the car as delivered. But as already stated, if you use the hard top the caps should match.
You also indicated you were going to keep the Euro lights. This is a US delivery car (the last line of the painted tag, the last number = 7), the VIN plate should be on either the A or B pillar, depending on the VIN number (Switch to B pillar just below the door latch was at 10704 ). Also at VIN 11948, there should be a small tag on the inside of the windshield on the driver's side with just the VIN. This was in the US only to provide a VIN number visible from outside the car, in Engelen listed as for the model year 1970.
Highly recommend you get rid of the cheese slicer clamps on the heater hoses, and anywhere else. These are poor substitutes, and the proper clamps are available through the usual sources.
It is hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like there is no hold down clamp for the battery, these are available.
The spark plug lead for no 1 cylinder should be the same as the other five, not a 90 angle.
Along the firewall ridge, there should be three small rubber bumpers (which are commonly missing) helps some with a snug and rattle free fit.
Pardon our rantings about details, it is some type of genetic flaw...
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Matti,
Welcome to our club!
You will find everyone is very helpful, friendly and there is a wealth of information available through our knowledgeable members
I have a question---does that armrest come out? who made it? Dimensions?
Regards
Steven
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Welcome to the group Matti!
In the pictures your car looks great!
Petri
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Hi Everyone,
Thank you for your compliments and comments.
The first photo I sent before has been taken on my 40th birthday (2008). The situation in the photo is real. I was driving home from the seller when the tachometer started to make a screaming noise. I had to pull of to disconnect the tacho cable. I bet most of you noticed the disconnected tacho cable in the engine bay picture...
What I´ve been told I´m the fourth owner of this car. I don´t know the name of the first owner. The second owner was a German businessman and he bought this car as "almost new" while living in California. In 1996 he moved back to Germany and took the car with him. The third owner (Finnish) bought the car to Finland in 2002 and I bought the car from him in 2008.
The total mileage is unknown. Any service book or owners manual didn´t came with the car. The speedo/odo meter has been changed to a km/h one. Yellow control marks on shock nuts seems very authentic. I believe that the shocks are original ones from the factory.
Jordan: The side markers lights are not coming back. All the chrome parts are redone and the bumper guards are gone.
Jonny B: The black hard top came with the car. You are right, this is a US delivered car and has been ordered without hard top. The VIN plate is on B pillar and the small one is on the inside of the windshield as you wrote. The one in the engine bay is extra, not from the factory. It will go when the time is right.
I have rebuilt the engine and spark plug leads are already changed. Hose clamps are still the same but i will fix that with new hoses (when the time is right...). I have a repro battery holder waiting for assembly.
StevenF: Check the photo of the arm rest. The construction is very simple. Height/thickness of the pad is approx 2,5 inch.
Some fresh photos attached.
BR,
Matti
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More photos:
I don´t expect to find major rust issues. The trunk floor may need some welding and of course I will do the filling of the side marker holes properly (TIG).
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More:
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More:
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As I wrote earlier I have rebuilt the engine. Very soon after I bought this car I noticed that there were something wrong with the engine.
When I started the engine (cold) it run only on five cylinders until warm up. After the engine has warmed up everything was normal and the car worked perfect. This happened every time when the engine was cold.
I removed the spark plugs and found rust (!) on the spark plug of the 2nd cylinder. The head gasket was leaking coolant to the 2nd cylinder. I was very disappointed. The leak was very small and it didn´t cause any heating problems or loosing coolant.
I pull the head of and found out that the block was recently bored to first oversize without honing! Now I was very angry and disappointed. What a waist!
I found a NOS set of 2nd oversize pistons on the internet and let the machine shop take care the job.
The engine is now "blueprinted" and fully balanced. Weights of the pistons and the connecting rod ends are now even (the difference is less that 1 gram). The crank , the damper and the flywheel/flex plate are balanced separately. Volumes of the combustion chambers are also even. The head has now new valves, -seats, -guides and three angle valve job.
I kept the original (?) cam because it was in good shape. The cam is hard chromium plated. I didn´t do anything for the fuel system neither (if it isn´t broke, don´t fix it).
Deburring the crank and the rods got out of hand, I think...
BR,
Matti
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Matti,
That looks like jewelry to me. ;D
That looks soooo smooooth ..... I'll bet that engine will run smooooth too.
Thank you for sharing !!
Mark
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What an apt term, jewelry indeed! Wonderful, just plain wonderful. Thanks for posting!
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Looks like a great starting point. A couple of adfitional details I noticed. The top of the power steering reservoir should be black. The brake fluid is an older replacement with squared off corners. There is a newer reproduction that is more rounded which is correct. The spark plug wires are wrong as mentioned before but also the distributor ends of the wires should be 90 degree ends. There should also be a black cover over the distributor cap and wires. The final thing I would mention is the hose for the power brakes is mostly correct with the narrow check valve and whitish clear hose. The new replacement is black hose, silver ends amd a bigger diameter check valve. I would suggest cutting the end fittings off, sending them out to be yellow cad plated. Het the correct color nylon hose from Authentic Classics and preserving the original check valve. Sounds like a lot of messing around but it is right on top of the engine and really sticks out when it is wrong.
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Here is a really good guide to underhood originality on a 1970 W113:
http://historic.motoringinvestments.com/Gelson280SL.htm
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Thanks Mark and Jonny B. Yes, the engine revs very freely.
Shvegel: Thank you very much. That kind of information I´m looking for! Looks like the brake booster is replacement part too.
I have bought a lot of spare parts for future since I bought the car. A hose for the brake booster is one of them. It´s a original part and looks exactly same as the one the Motoring Investments put on their customer car. I will do as you suggest. My car has not any bracket for the windshield washer reservoir. Neither do that reference car. Should there be one?
The fire wall insulation of my car is in bad shape. I´m not gonna use it after restoration. I have a new but it has (of cource) wrong pattern...
What do you think about the result of Motoring Investments restoration? Should the oil cap be silver/blue instead of yellow? Yellow fan? I think that the yellow color is too rich.
BR,
Matti
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Matti,
I am surprised about the yellow cad oil fill cap and what appears to be the fan too by Motoring Investments.
The oil fill cap should be silver/gray and the fan should be silver in color as you suggest.
Mark
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Agree on the color of the oil cap, greyish, not CAD.
And yup, no bracket for the windshield washer reservoir.
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Agree on the color of the oil cap, greyish, not CAD
To throw a curveball into this discussion, I happened to look at a nice 571 red 280SL (supposedly original) in this website:
http://www.hatchandsons.com/pages/sales/JB130/ (http://www.hatchandsons.com/pages/sales/JB130/)
The oil filler cap (pressed metal late type) certainly seems yellowish to my eyes...
I do certainly know, that the cover (lid) for the coolant overflow reservoir (plastic in this picture correct for late 280SL) was yellow cad.
One thing with this yellow chrome surface treatment; it is sensitive to fading and easily turns into a dull grey shade. Detrimental factors are moisture and heat.
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True in the photo the oil cap appears on the yellow side. I would take a grain of salt on the full "original" the 100 degree switch on the thermostat housing is from a later version. The fuel injection lines look to be a bit "used" (although that would lean in the side of being original, and never messed with)- seems like the oil cap is pretty fresh.
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Hello,
The project has been started. Well spent three weeks of my four weeks vacation... I think.
BR,
Matti
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Matti,
Based on the photos, that is one of the nicest cars I've seen being stripped to the bone and rotisseried. Will be great to see your updates. At least you know what you will be doing on future vacations.
Best of luck,
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Front fender notches are not all lead. There is a small notch on sheet metal too (center of the photo, the car is upside down).
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What a surprise. Notches are all steel. My car has one over spray plus some repairs (dings and dents). The only place I found lead is the overlapped (spot welded) seams between rear fenders and B-pillars. Seams above tail lights are brazed.
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Wow that bodywork looks mint. How did you remove all the paint/undercoat? I was looking into dipping my shell.
Steve.
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Steve,
I used a Scotch-Brite clean and strip disc to remove the paint. It´s flexible and very effective. I used only one 200 mm disc for all four fenders.
For undercoat I used a heat gun and several different chisels and scrapers. I´m gonna sand blast the body before epoxy primer.
Matti
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Sorry for delay in reply, I struggled to find this original thread after commenting on it.
I shall have to look into getting some of these pads. Looks a good option.
Steve.
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Hello,
Some progress has been achieved.
Matti
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No lead, all steel (factory original).
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Hi Matti
thanks for sharing the pics!. I am also doing a rotisserie restoration myself and are close to where you are at in the process.
I didn't realize before that you had a Mark II. Can you tell us a little about it? It was my dream car in high-school and in fact I bought a basket case 1956 that turned out to be the first production Mark II. It thought it was at the time but couldn't prove it because the original production records for the Mark II's were lost at the Ford Museum at the time. They found the records years after I sold it and proved it was the 1st. Its on my bucket list to drive one someday.
John
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Hi John,
I bought my MK II from California in 2006. I drove it until autumn 2008 when I started a frame of/rotisserie restoration. It took six and a half years to get the project finished. I can tell you that the build quality of these car is very poor and very overrated. After restoring couple of Mercedes the "quality" was quite a shock to me. I turned my car into a mild custom. The MK II was the first American car I have ever owned.
Since my MK II is very late example of production I wonder how bad is/was the first one? Did your MK II had celebrity owner?
I can add some pics to the "other cars" section if interested.
Matti
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That is an interesting collection of cars, I would love to see some photos of your VW T 1 beatle in the other cars area..
Garry
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Hello,
The body is now epoxy primed. I´ll let the epoxy dry at least two weeks before I add any filler on it.
Matti
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Hello,
I got the first patch of parts back from plating. Yellow ones are okay but blue/clear parts are too bright and shiny. I don´t know what to do with them yet. Some parts will be painted as they were from the factory.
I managed to find 3,46:1 rear end gears. Brand new Mercedes Benz original parts. So I will go from 3,92:1 to 3,46:1 in the future.
Matti
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Matti,
It looks like you are making great progress on your restoration.
Why did you choose to have the parts in the lower photo plated rather than go straight to prime and paint?
Looks like you are keeping everything neatly organized. I would like to see your file on how you documented where every piece, nut and bolt came from.
How did you prepare your hardware before sending to the plater?
Thanks for sharing your progress.
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Frank,
Zinc plating is really cheap and extra protection does not make any harm. Epoxy primer I´ll use for these parts is especially made for zinc and aluminium surfaces.
I have found that my memory is getting shorter and shorter... I need to organize this project somehow to get it finished. I have taken over 1500 photos during dismantle process. I have sorted photos in several files as engine, body, interior... to make future use of them easier. Few example of my "documentation". One photo of my "storage" also. Every box has own inventory list in it.
As preparation for these parts I did remove all paint and thick grease/grime/glue/under coating, nothing else.
Matti
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Hi Matti,
What is the red paint you are using? Is it a red oxide primer?
Steven
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Hi Steven,
The red and the white/almond are the same, just different color. Both are epoxy primer for industrial use.
Teknoplast primer 5 (old name Inerta primer 5), It´s a Finnish product, the brand is Teknos.
Matti
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Hello,
Another vacation has been spent in my garage... Almost ready for paint shop. Switched from 050 to 906.
BR,
Matti
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Matti,
Thank you for sharing (sorry for being repetitive, I've said that before).
This string is extremely valuable given the fantastic condition of the car you started with.
I'm going to copy some of the pictures. I hope you don't mind. The notch pictures are invaluable.
Also, I don't remember you mentioning 906 before.
I'm thrilled there will be another 906 Pagoda in the world. ;D
So, you personally are painting all of the less important surfaces as in the pictures and then off to a paint shop for the exterior?? Is that what you are doing? Or, are you painting the exterior too?
Mark
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Mark,
No, I don`t mind. Feel free to use pictures.
I did n`t mentioned about 906 before because I was n`t sure which color to choose. I only knew it would not be 050 and it would be a metallic color. I will keep 040 on the hard top and will paint hub caps with same color.
The exterior will be painted by an professional painter in a proper painting booth.
BR,
Matti
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Hello,
I did paint some parts before starting final sanding of the body. I used PPG Deltron DG with matte additive (on epoxy primer).
Black "dirt" on the body is guide powder for dry sanding.
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Hello,
Finally painted. I am happy with the result.
BR,
Matti
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It looks beautiful.
I see that you painted the engine compartment and jambs separately. I am considering doing the same to save the stress of trying to mount and dismount doors and the hood between the basecoat and clear coat.
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Very nice! The door gaps on the passenger side look quite excellent.
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Thank you guys.
The doors were mounted during the painting. The painter did open the doors to get B-pillars/posts painted. Other lids are painted separately.
The door caps are as perfect as they can be with original fenders. So they are not perfect (4 - 4,5 mm). I have not done the final adjustment yet because i´m gonna dismount the doors one more time.
BR,
Matti
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The old 3,92 an the new 3,46
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I used my milling machine to measure the pinion depth.
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I used a spring scale for measuring the bearing preload. Not high tech but works. The back lash can be measured via drain hole with this kind of dial gauge.
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Fun part of the project has began.
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How is the reforestation progress?
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some progress
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Got every cavities treated against rust. What a messy job. After cleaning was time to add some sound insulator. I used 4 mm thick bitumen. I did not blacken certain areas on purpose. I like them this way. It is easy fix them later if I change my mind.
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Looking beautiful Matti!👍
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Beautiful work you’re doing. Where do you get the bitumen sound insulation?
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Thank you guys,
I bought the bitumen direct from a Finnish sound insulation manufacturer. I´m not sure if this really is their own product. It is available in many stores here.
Hope the link works.
http://meluton.fi/en/
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Looks great! :)
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Kiitos Petri. Not much progress. What a job to get the wiring harness through the big rubber grommet...
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Looks really nice, did you replace the harness? It looks brand new, I am in two minds myself about replacing mine.
Also, I like your paint finish it looks metallic.
Steve
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Damn you do nice work Matti!
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Thank you Steve and John. The wiring harness is original. Just clean it and replaced old tapes. For under dash section I used "hockey stick tape". Trunk light wires were broken so I replaced them.
BR,
Matti
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I discovered a method for installing the main wiring harness through the firewall grommet. It involves using a US 1-1/2” PVC sink drain “tailpiece”. The ID of the PVC is just enough to fit the wire harness through the grommet without removing connectors from the wires. The PVC is used to stretch open the rubber firewall grommet hole. While not necessary, I left the old grommet in place on the harness until I got the harness through the new grommet to the point of the original. Once the new grommet is in the proper place, I cut off the old grommet and the PVC pipe. The Tailpiece has a thinner wall than standard 1-1/2” PVC schedule 40 pipe. The tailpiece also needs to have one end slotted in order to create a tapered end like the point of a large pencil. Some force and Vaseline is needed to push it through the grommet but the grommet did stretch without tearing.
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Can I ask what do all the dabs of paint represent on the suspension and rear drive assembly?
I noticed you are using different colours on different parts.
Steve
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Frank: I spent several hours dismantling every connector...
Steve: Those dabs are "the dotology". Lots of discussion of those on this forum. I just copy what I found when I dismantled my car.
BR,
Matti
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Hi Matti,
Can I ask where you sourced your firewall padding from?
I've had a few failed attempts from our usual suppliers, despite taking extra care, heating it up first, etc. Seems to be limited options for RHD firewall padding.
Thanks in advance - beautiful work BTW.
Cheers
Rob
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Matti,
Beautiful job on the wiper motor. That’s a tough one to get right.
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Rob,
I think the firewall pad used is the one being sold by Authentic Classics in USA
Garry
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Thanks Garry - my guess would be Vintage Euro Parts - let's see what Matti confirms.
Rob
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Thanks guys. The firewall pad came from Authentic Classics. I painted it after installation to get more original look. Without paint it looked brown and had fuzzy surface. The material itself is close to original.
BR,
Matti
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Thanks Matti,
That explains it - yes, it does look better after your surface treatment.
Regards,
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Matti,
Do you have these markings in your “dotology”? Our cars are the same specification so they should match yours.
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Isn't marking the shock absorbers a little over the top?
Steve
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Re: Shvegels picture
The W113 Pagoda had four green paint bars on each of the Bilstein shock absorbers (see for instance Book of Tables)
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Four bars on original shock absorbers. I´m not sure if I´ll paint the bars or keep the Bilstein stickers.
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What do the four painted bars represent?
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Not much progress.
Fuel lines and other parts are yellow zinc despite they look silver on photos.
BR,
Matti
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Sweet!
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really nice! almost a shame to start it.
Did you do anything special to ensure it stays this way for a while, preventing leaks etc.?
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I have rebuilt this engine in 2009 and it has about 8000 km since then. During this cosmetic process I replaced as many seals I could.
I tried to save original finish on most aluminum parts so used a tooth brush and a lot of elbow grease instead of media blasting everything. I found out that a cleaner for aluminum boats (Star Brite) worked well.
I did media blast the valve cover because one of previous owners has tried to polish it.
BR,
Matti
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Which Star Brite cleaner did you use?
I would like to try it on my head as I can't media blast that.
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I used acid based Aluminum Cleaner. Be careful and protect your self.
https://www.oceanchandlery.com/starbrite-aluminium-boat-cleaner-950ml-acid-formula.html
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Thanks!
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That engine looks nice, I shall look forward to stripping and rebuilding mine.
Out of interest is there a pipe missing on your engine? Is this a pipe back from Air intake or exhaust manifold? I have highlighted in photo attached. I have this pipe missing on my engine but not sure exactly where it goes.
Steve
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Steve,
There is a hose between that nipple and the pipe.
BR,
Matti
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Hmmm,
I have that metal pipe missing. Not sure if SLS have it available.
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The pipe goes to the cold start injector.
I finally had a chance to look up the shock addorber markings. You were right Matti the proper mark is 4 bars front and rear. Mine also carry 108 part numbers.
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I kept those Bilstein stickers.
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I am waiting the last patch of parts and fastener back from zinc plating. Not much to do before that so I focused head lights and tail lights.
I have bought these years ago before prices went crazy. Tail light seals are genuine MB parts but I have a problem with them. They are so thick and firm that I fear I´m gonna brake something if I force assemblies into place. There is approx 5 mm cap between the bezel and the body. Any thoughts?
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Hi Matti,
Congrats on a job well done.
Having restored 6 190SLs to the same standard and because I know what it takes, I respectfully take my hat off to you, for a job well done.
I have owned 4 Pagodas, in fair condition, the latest one is a 250SL and I wish I had what it takes to restore it to its former glory.
Regards
Chris
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Chris, thank you for your very kind words.
Got parts back from plating. The shade of yellow is quite light. This is what we get here in Finland with "environment friendly" passivation chemicals.
Anyway, I get the transmission back in one piece.
BR,
Matti
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This is one lovely looking tranny!!
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Rolling again.
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Exciting moment!
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very very nice.
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Really looking great!! Beautiful work.
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Thank you guys. Exciting moment indeed. This is a big step forward.
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Fantastic work!
Littel question, is it not the wrong on?
Peter
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The brake booster with the master cylinder is a replacement unit. That nipple is for clutch cylinder and it is plugged.
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I have read on the forum that this is a perfectly fine, correct, "authorized" replacement, as you say.
I think the original, more oval, unit also had that nipple for clutch, plugged on automatic cars.
Without being certain, it might have looked like on the picture (also replacement).
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The brake booster with the master cylinder is a replacement unit.../...
Certainly so.
Some notes on Pagoda brake fluid container in this thread
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=27773.msg199788#msg199788 (https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=27773.msg199788#msg199788)
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Some progress. It seems that original style Norma hose clamps are very hard to get from Finland.
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The clamps are indeed a rare item. I bought some from Bud's Benz and found some on e-bay.
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Matti,
Could you post a picture of the plate under the battery where the electronic ignition amplifier mounts? I need to make one and I have only found pictures of half of it.
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Here is some.
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Matti,
Thanks a ton. I could only find pictures that show half of it. That is a huge help.
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I bought this exhaust system years ago as a original spare part and this is what I got.
I wonder how to install the exhaust system whit out a full height lift... Mission impossible?
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Normally you would trial fit it then tack weld the parts, remove it and fully weld it and refit it. A hoist is probably needed.
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Got the exhaust system welded. As I do not have a full height lift/hoist I cheated and did an extra pair of flanges to ease the installation. I removed the dark gray paint with lacquer thinner and found out that the "cross-over-box" and pipes between mufflers are not alu/zinc coated. I sandblasted all welds before painting. The paint I used is very durable against heat and rust. I have used it on headers on supercharged V8 engines. I´m not sure if it is possible to paint black on this paint. I´m gonna do some test. If it does not work the exhaust system will stay in silver...
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Did you trial fit before fully welding up. it is normally a good idea.
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Yes I did. The rear muffler was tricky. I had to use smaller doughnuts on the left side and bigger on the right side to get the muffler in correct position.
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Among the quality of your work, I am impressed with how clean your garage always looks!
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Thanks John. You have not seen the whole truth... ;)
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.../...I am impressed with how clean your garage always looks.../...
I have noted the same. Are you running a business in the premises, or is it purely a hobby garage?
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Where did you get the diamond pattern bitumen sound deadening mat, it looks fantastic can you get it in a roll ? i have seen a product on e bay called "Bitflex Bitumen Diamond Sound Proofing Insulation Sheet" but only in 1M X 1M sheets, is this the same ?
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Hans, this is pure hobby. As I spent a lot of my free time in my garage I like to keep it clean.
Dave, please read #56 reply on this topic. There´s a link to shop I used. The bitumen came in sheets size of 1m x 1,2m. No rolls available.
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Hans, this is pure hobby. As I spent a lot of my free time in my garage I like to keep it clean.
Not so obvious, if you look at mine...
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Beautiful work Matti, 2 weeks ago i cavity waxed all hollow sections of my shell, i had to get creative to find ways inside and drill a few holes, as you say its a messy job, its still dripping out, good job i covered the floor with cardboard, that stuff gets everywhere but it has to be done.
I followed the link you posted, its the 4mm bitumen i need right ? how many of the sheets should i order to do a correct job like you did ?
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Thanks Dave, I bought two 4mm sheets for the floors and that was just enough. No room for mistakes. I bought also one 1,5mm sheet for the trunk and doors.
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The exhaust system is now completed and I think it fits like a glove. Black paint over the silver did not work at all. It caused the silver paint peeling of.
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I'm in awe of your skills
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There are firms here in the US that do black ceramic coatings. Seems like it would be just the thing for exhaust.
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There are firms here in the US that do black ceramic coatings. Seems like it would be just the thing for exhaust.
You can also buy the same ceramic coating they sell and do it yourself. There are bake and non-bake versions.
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I have used Tech Line Black Satin once. It is solvent based. It is suitable only for bare steel and cast iron (surface have to be sand or aluminum oxide blasted). It can´t be used on alu/zinc coating. It will peel away. Same problem with all Tech Line coatings which are available here.
The silver paint I used is the best product I know against rust and heat. It is rated only 600 c but it withstands much higher temperatures.
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Now we are close to finish. The motor is running! I managed to find some NOS Gemi hose clamps on a swap meet. Unfortunately they are yellow zinc/cad. So I must go with temporary clamps until I get them replated.
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Really good to see a spinning fan. I hope to be there soon.
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Incredible work!
W113 has got to be one of the more difficult and $$$ cars to restore.
Bravo!
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phenominal work Matti. Very inspiring to see the end product look like this. gives me a little kick with my own project.
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Thanks guys.
Teahead, My car was a good starting point. I bought it over ten years ago. I have bought most of the parts before "crazy prices". For example: hood emblem 36 eur vs. 313 eur today. I´m also able to do most of the work by myself. So I have spent more time than money to my project.
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The weather was good yesterday so I took out my Pagoda for Sunday drive. I drove over 80 km to places I haven´t ever been before.
BR,
Matti
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Fantastic !!
Congratulations !
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Matti, having admired the pictures of your Continental, this is just what I expected. Fantastic!
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Congrats matti and thanks so much for sharing. You set an extremely high standard for the rest of us to only hope to follow.
Johnk
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Congratulations, Matti!
Looks perfect! :)
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Thank you guys. My car is not perfect. There is a lot of details which are wrong. My car is a mix of originality and my personal taste.
I bought the trunk mat about nine years ago from SLS. I came rolled and I did not open it until now. I was pretty sure I bought a repro mat but instead of that I got a genuine one. What a nice surprise!
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Great forward thinking, Matti! Trunk mat was $113.90 from Classic Center last month, with discount.
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That is a very good price. Today from MB Classic Center 224,55 eur without any discount. A repro mat from SLS 303,45 eur!?!
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Hello,
Not much has been happened since my last post. I bought new tires. I ordered and paid for MXV-P tires (black wall) and got MXV with white walls. What a heck! I guess the MXV-P is not available at the moment?
Matti
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Great job Matt,
Look wonderful. I’m also a huge fan of 2-tone Pagoda’s.
Couldn’t help noticing that the coolant lines to the WRD ( Thermostat on top of the injection pump) are reversed. Not sure how much difference it makes to the function.
Congrats again.
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Rob,
Are you sure? It looks good to me.
The higher one up goes to the long metal pipe that goes around the engine and the lower one goes to the head with a rubber hose. At least that is the way it is on mine.
Maybe I misunderstood what you are saying?
Mark
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Hi Mark,
Yes I'm sure.
When I restored my Pagoda's I used John's (aka 49er) original engine bay photos as a reference.
Not sure what we would do without them!
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Rob,
Very interesting !!
Nothing like a photo to get your point across.
I see I need to do some research.
Maybe there are model year differences.
When you mentioned it, I know I've read that before .... I'm gonna do some research and get back with you.
Thanks !!
Mark
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Your welcome Mark,
I have also read it many times in odd posts but it was easier to find the photo. Fairly certain there is no relevant model change - it was standard on all Pagoda's.
I still see some of my friends cars with the same reversed coolant lines that don't run too badly. Others with far greater knowledge than I have can explain what the short/long term effect will be for having these coolant lines reversed.
Cheers
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I think the coolant lines are routed differently between early and late 280sl’s. The early 280sl has what is described as a “water pipe” mounted to the block which holds the TTS. The later style is connected directly to the block.
Reversing the rubber hoses made for easier connections based on the change.
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Hmmm......does make sense.
I agree for the late 280SL’s the configuration looks more orderly when reversed.
Would like to get this confirmed so l can have the arrangement correct on my 1970 280SL.
We might need to create a new post so the brains trust can chime in?
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When I made my comment a couple of posts ago I googled late model 280sl’s and the pictures I saw had the lower hose going to the block.
However, seeing other local late 280sl’s the lower hose is connected to the pipe going around the engine like the early models.
At this point I don’t know if they changed the order later or somebody incorrectly changed and others copied. I have seen it happen before. 🤷♂️
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I looked at the photo of my late model 280SL before I restored it and the lower hose is going to the block. and now I am seeing several late model 280SL's (but not all) with this configuration. Who knows? :o
I might start a new post to try get to the bottom of this - and I feel I have inadvertently hijacked Matti's post on his beautiful restoration. Apologies Matt :)
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Every coolant hose were replaced on my 9/69 built car when I started the project. Very few of original hose clamps were left. So it is possible that the routing is reversed.
I attached photo of 12/69 built car. Hose clamps looks original.
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Thanks - I think I have seen enough late model 280SL configurations now to agree with Mrfatboy that the on the late 280SL's the lower coolant line goes to the block. I'll be changing the configuration of my 1970 280SL to suit. it does look neater. Thanks all. Rob.
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I had a good idea to get my transmission overhauled by an professional just in case. That was a mistake. As they say " Don´t fix it if it isn´t broken." My fully functional and non leaking transmission became a oil dripping and not so functional one. After sitting couple hours my car didn´t move until I waited half a minute. That was very annoying. After several calls with the pro I decided to check the transmission by my self...
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Brave man! :D
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Brave man! :D
Well, we will see ;) ;)
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I found the cause of the problem. This oil sealing ring has been damaged due to sloppy work.
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I work as a Chief Engineer on a large private yacht. I feel like a good portion of my time is spent mopping up after people I paid to fix things. It is so annoying.
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More sloppy work... Also the membrane of the modulator was broken. The guy who did this overhaul is well known in Finland. He has started his business in 1977 and according to the axle nut he hasn´t got proper tools.
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Seals and other parts arrived yesterday. Now I know what I´m doing on Christmas holiday...
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Happy holidays! ;D ;D ;D
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Wow.
Those piston rods and caps could be used as hip replacements.
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How about spectacles instead? ;D ;D
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On Boxing Day... it works!
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Wow.
I cannot imagine how you must feel.
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On Boxing Day... it works!
Bravo! :)
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Upeaa! ;^)
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Thank you guys,
This was the first time ever I dismantled an automatic transmission. How everything works in this kind of transmission is still mystery to me...
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Hello,
I sent the white wall tires I bought earlier back to the seller. I managed to find another supplier who had MXW-P tires.
I haven´t took notice to the manufacturing date until now. My old tires are very old... I assume that 122 means week 12 in 1992! They are still soft and crack free.
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To avoid scratches on fresh paint I used some shrinkable tube on these clips. It works.
Matti
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The first drive with top down this year. The photo shows "old town". My home town got city rights in 1347. The cathedral in the photo got its first stone walls in 1410. Before that it was made of wood.
BR,
Matti