Front Main Seal Sleeve Removal

[RonDwyer]

How much effort should it take to loosen up and remove the sleeve as part of a front main seal replacement?  I don't want to drill or grind as this is an in-situ procedure for me.  Maybe just a little kroil pre-soak and make the PVC pipe tool?  Hoping these are not pressed on so minimal interference fit to work against?  I cannot remember how much effort the OM110 seal required, but that one was part of an overhaul.  In the meantime, the kroil is on duty

[Tyler S]

Remove/Get the seal out of your way first. I ended up heating the sleeve with a propane torch. Just enough to expand it and it slipped right off. They are not press fit.

[RonDwyer]

Thanks Tyler,

I shall give the old torch a try.    Or as we call it when mixed with oxygen, the 'Gas Axe'. 

[wwheeler]

Once you get the seal out, you can determine how much force is required. Mine slipped off w/o much drama. Try that first and then go through the steps if needed. As Tyler said no press fit. The sleeve is held in place by the damper/crank bolt when it is torqued down.

[ja17]

Some can be more difficult, but a little heat should help.

[Shvegel]

Has there ever been any consensus as to what sealer to use on the inner diameter of the seal ring?  I think where some of us have big troubles are when the ring has been replaced and some form of sealer is now gluing it to the crank.  My gut says some form of locktite sealant or bearing mount would release with heat much better than silicone but Permatex #2 might be a good choice also?

[Tyler S]

I use Loctite brand 518 anarobic sealant. You wont fight it when removing down the road.
There are 3 areas of potential oil migration into the balancer.
Rear of Crankshaft timing gear.
Timing gear to spacer ring.
Spacer ring to balancer.
I have found it more practical to just seal the crankshaft bolt and washers on the balancer.