crankshaft seal vers 2.0

[pablo_o2]

Today I changed my seal and the sleeve around the shaft.
I had a oilleak which I thoughed came from the seal but after
changing it and cleaning up the engine block I noticed another small
oilleak coming apparently from the waterpump mainhousing and/or
the washer between the alternator tensioner and engineblock. Is that
possible? Is there oil passing the waterpump mainhousing? Some pics to
explain what I mean...

[garymand]

Strange.  is this motor out of the car?  You ran it and took the H. Balancer off for the pictures?

How did you get drip with out running the motor?  What did you do to get the drip going?

Bottom line: Oops, but at least you have a new front seal and a clean motor front.  Until we hear more: get a very bright light and follow the trail.  We need some pics of the other side of the water pump.  There are a few things up there that could be leaking, but it looks very thick!  More detail please.

[pablo_o2]

Hi Garry,
the engine is still in the car.
Car did not run for a couple of days. Everyday day
there was a small amount of oil on the floor even without
driving the car. I cleaned the block with breakcleaner to check
for new leaks... I'll take some more shots tomorrow from different angles.
Could the breakcleaner cause the drip? Normally breakcleaner evaporates
pretty quick.

[georgem]

Gary,

It looks to me like gasket goo that has squashed out and run after the pieces were mated (and not wiped up).

Cheers

George

[garymand]

I'm empathizing, yes, the stuff is too thick to be normal oil and if the motor wasn't fired up, what ever it is, it isn't what we would call an oil leak.  

You still haven't said what you did with the motor from the time you changed the seal to when you saw this stuff.  

I'm jumping to: you pulled a bolt and old gue came out and is just seaping with gravity, maybe enhansed by the thinning of break cleaner.  Probably a bolt that goes through to the oil sitting in the timing chain gallery:
 maybe the bolt that holds the FI pipes at the front of the head.  It plugs a hole for a timing chain gear tensioner? Did you put the bolt back in?  

For sure follow gravity up behind the pump with a bright light.  

[wwheeler]

From what I remember when I took the stuff off the front of my engine, there are bolt threads that have to sealed. One is exposed to the crankcase (oil) and one is exposed to the coolant. I think the one that is leaking is the one that exposed to the crankcase and would leak oil if not sealed. I know there are threads (no pun intended) about this on this site and I vaguely remember a picture that Joe A. marked up to shows this. Might look around.

[Naj ✝︎]

Paul
Have a look around the timing chain tensioner
Probably needs a new sealing ring
Naj

[pablo_o2]

Hello Naj,
changed the o-ring 2 weeks ago because that was my first guess
where the oil came from. But still thinking in that direction too....

[garymand]

No, not the chain tensioner.  Its on the side of the motor.  All that oil would flow down the side.  Check the shaft hole for the chain tensioner gear directly up in the direction where this seapage is points to.

[WRe]

Hi,
look into the oil pool of the timing chain tensioner. There must be a 6mm socket head bolt othrwise there will be a oil leak behind the water pump.
See here:  http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Engine/TimingChain.
...WRe

[pablo_o2]

after another inspection I opened up the valvecover to inspect the hidden bolt. There was almost no oil in the cup there.
I was able to check the torque of the bolt and that was ok. The leak is surely coming from the chaintensioner. The strange
thing is I just changed the O-ring there. But drops of oil underneed the treaded shaft of the tensioner proof the leak is there.
Now I noticed 2 things: 1.the o-ring fits in a groove and the o-ring is barely passing the flat upper surface so how can it shut of
the oil there? 2.The treaded shaft is closed by a hollow nut, which I think does not shut of the oil completely so I put some sealer there.
Can I fill the groove with some washers so the o-ring comes higher and thus can be better pressed-on?
Paul.

[Naj ✝︎]

Hi, Paul,

Could you have been given the wrong seal 'O' ring? The correct one is 002 997 3645

Also there is an alu seal ring  for the hollow nut: 007603 018100

Naj

[pablo_o2]

After removing the tensioner I noticed following damage, probably because I did not fit
the tensioner dry, so too much pressure came to the end of the tube.
I was very lucky I managed to recover the debris out of the chainhousing...Learned my lesson,
next one I'll fit it dry first and than pour warm oil over the tensioner while bleeding it...
Hope after this the leaking is over