Author Topic: Best way to install new gasket: soft top to top of windscreen frame  (Read 4666 times)

mdsalemi

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I just ordered and received (thanks, David Gallon!) a new gasket that goes between the bottom of the leading edge of the soft top, to seal at the top of the window frame.
Any guidance on installation from someone who has done it before and been happy with results would be appreciated!
It looks like the "track" that this fits into on mine seems to have a lot of glue residue, and over time this has failed; the gasket too, is worn and hence the replacement.
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
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Garry

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Michael,
If you mean this front seal, I have just changed mine over on both the soft and hard tops.

Firstly you need to remove the old gasket, and it probably needs to be scraped out and then use a glue remover to clean out the track. I used a flat head screw driver to remve the remnants of the gasket before cleaning up the grove.  You may find that the small screws that hold the chromed channel in place are rusty and need replacement.

From there test press the seal into the grove and see how it fits and length etc.  Then is is just a case of applying a good contact to the channel and the rubber seal and pressing the seal into place, being careful not to streatch the seal length wise otherwise you will find you have some left over seal at one end. Not good.

Very easy job.

Garry
« Last Edit: July 01, 2014, 05:35:25 by Garry »
Garry Marks
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mdsalemi

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On the new gasket, did you use any kind of adhesive?
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2022 Ford Escape Hybrid
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid

66andBlue

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Michael,
I have used 3M weatherstrip adhesive and followed the instructions, that is, a thin coat on both sides and waiting until tacky. Use a tube and not spray.
http://www.shop3m.com/3m-black-super-weatherstrip-and-gasket-adhesive-08008-5-oz.html
I prefer to start in the middle and work towards the ends. Make sure the channels is really clean (wire brushed) but if you see bare metal coat it with primer or paint to prevent rust.
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

jameshoward

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+1 for what Alfred says. I would also have a tin of adhesive solvent handy to neatly remove any seepage. You will need to use a contact/grab adhesive. In the UK/Europe, a product called UHU is perfect for this. EVO stick make an excellent solvent for cleaning out the channels. It dissolves old glue very well.
James Howard
1966 LHD 230SL

mdsalemi

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Good advice, exactly what I was looking for.

I have a brass-wire "toothbrush" perfect for cleaning.
I'll have to find the proper solvent. I tell you, with all these VOC and air rules around there are a lot of solvents out there and that don't do squat!
I have a tube of the 3M adhesive, but may need another…

Thanks guys...
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2022 Ford Escape Hybrid
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid

bogeyman

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Michael - I have been doing this to one of mine.
I have a brass wire brush attachment for my drill that makes short work of the old adhesive.. I use a wide blade exacto for scraping.
3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover does an excellent job for final cleanup
Rick Bogart
1970 280SL Black(040)/Parchment
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1993 500E
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Cees Klumper

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I put in my new seal without any glue; it stays put quite well due to a tight fit in the channel. If glue would be needed I would also go with the 3M weatherstrip adhesive.
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
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