Author Topic: Body Cracking @ Wiper Assembly Attachment Point  (Read 5615 times)

250SLFranco

  • Associate Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, OR, Portland
  • Posts: 64
Body Cracking @ Wiper Assembly Attachment Point
« on: August 29, 2013, 20:01:20 »
Has anyone had this problem and if so, what did you do to repair?
The body of my 250SL has developed a "stress fracture" where the wiper blade assembly is attached to the body.  This fracture is growing from the stress related to running the wiper motor.  The mechanism applys torque to the point of attachment at each wiper blade assebly.
I am interested in feedback on repair options.
Thank you.
250SLFranco

Rolf-Dieter ✝︎

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, London
  • Posts: 3683
    • Best Pagoda Site second to none!
Re: Body Cracking @ Wiper Assembly Attachment Point
« Reply #1 on: August 29, 2013, 21:06:49 »
Hi Franco,

Have a look at this thread ---> http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=19076.0

Perhaps it may help you to find a means of repair.

Good Luck !
DD 2011 SL 63 AMG and my 69 Pagoda 280 SL

250SLFranco

  • Associate Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, OR, Portland
  • Posts: 64
Re: Body Cracking @ Wiper Assembly Attachment Point
« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2013, 21:56:02 »
Thanks Rolf-Dieter....I did read that thread....maybe an option when welding or access to the backside is limited. 
250SLFranco

Rolf-Dieter ✝︎

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, London
  • Posts: 3683
    • Best Pagoda Site second to none!
Re: Body Cracking @ Wiper Assembly Attachment Point
« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2013, 23:43:39 »
I know Franco,

Perhaps take some pictures of the affected area. I'm thinking of perhaps somehow slipping a metal strip thru the opening wiper access to reinforce and or strengthen the defected area. Prior to doing this one could drill some holes in specific locations that would line up with the inserted metal strip. The drilled holes can then be filled with weld and ground back. Once this is done one can re drill the wiper access opening. Naturally there be painting required etc. Not an easy job by no means.

I recommend you make a drive by to a good auto body shop, I'm sure they have seen similar issues before. Keep us informed sounds like a project that might cross paths with some of us members here in future. Take photos ... remember one photo is worth a thousand words :) My technical reports always had a ton of photographs and not too many words  ;D

As said Good Luck with this project.
DD 2011 SL 63 AMG and my 69 Pagoda 280 SL

ja17

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Blacklick
  • Posts: 7324
Re: Body Cracking @ Wiper Assembly Attachment Point
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2013, 06:40:31 »
If the wiper pivots themselves are tight and binding, the entire housing will tend to turn and twist. This can stress and crack the metal around the housing. Make sure your pivot moves freely before the repair is made, so you will not have to do it again.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

250SLFranco

  • Associate Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, OR, Portland
  • Posts: 64
Re: Body Cracking @ Wiper Assembly Attachment Point
« Reply #5 on: August 30, 2013, 17:32:40 »
I have taken my baby to two different auto body shops that are respected in the Portland, Oregon vicinity and both want to pull the dash or do whatever is necessary to gain access to the back side of the problem to make reinforcement welds.

Interestingly neither autobody shop wanted anything to do with the work necessary to get to the back side of the problem...re: pulling and replacing the dash.

For now I drive in the summer months and use Rain-X....limiting my wiper usage as much as possible.  Quite a fete in the NorthWest!

All Feedback is appreciated!

250SLFranco

Rolf-Dieter ✝︎

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, London
  • Posts: 3683
    • Best Pagoda Site second to none!
Re: Body Cracking @ Wiper Assembly Attachment Point
« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2013, 19:02:41 »
Franco,

Don't give up. keep checking to see if you find someone willing to help with the project. Seams like the body shop people you saw don't like to think "outside the box" you have to find some one that likes to think outside the box :)

You can always (later) go back to one of the body shops and tell them ... "See I managed to get it done without pulling the entire dash apart! Now please paint it" :)
DD 2011 SL 63 AMG and my 69 Pagoda 280 SL

Paul & Dolly

  • Full Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • United Kingdom, Wales, CARDIFF
  • Posts: 688
  • i Car
Re: Body Cracking @ Wiper Assembly Attachment Point
« Reply #7 on: August 30, 2013, 22:24:00 »
Are both wipers affected ?
Cannot the  passenger side one can be accessed by removing the glove box.
Paul
Paul (located in Cardiff - Wales - UK)
1967 Early 250 SL (Auto) White
Mitsubishi i Car
Toyota RAV 4  Hybrid AWD
1936 Alvis Firebird (Gone............)

m300cab

  • Associate Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • USA, Pennington New Jersey
  • Posts: 374
Re: Body Cracking @ Wiper Assembly Attachment Point
« Reply #8 on: August 31, 2013, 15:35:22 »
I had that problem once
we swapped out the wiper transmission
runs along the backside of the fire wall
Michael Parlato

garymand

  • Inactive
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, CA, Meadow Vista
  • Posts: 537
Re: Body Cracking @ Wiper Assembly Attachment Point
« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2013, 23:26:59 »
It is caused by the wear in the shaft bushing.  You will find you can wiggle the shaft.  The crank puts a lot of force on the mount. 

You can get to it from the glove box.  I had mine fixed once, but it cracked again, then I inspected and realized it was the torquing of the mechanism at a delicate sheetmetal mounting area and actually flexing the mountin hole.  I think they just bondoed the crack to tell you the truth.  Perhaps you can reinforce the hole, re-bush the shaft, spread the force out, to avoid welding. 

Gary
Early 250SL German version owned since 71, C320, R350, 89 Porsche 944 Turbo S