Author Topic: Air vent plate repair - how?  (Read 4545 times)

66andBlue

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Air vent plate repair - how?
« on: July 30, 2013, 20:03:55 »
We have had several discussions about repairing and re-chroming the air vents in the dash corners.
One major problem with these parts are the two small studs (or pins) and a hook on the back side that hold the pieces in place.
See first photo.
Obviously, when the hook is broken there is no chance for repair.
Some have had success using epoxy glues to cement a new stud in place, for example paults1 used JBWeld:
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=14110.0. - but for others this fix did not last long.

Recently I saw an American car at my chrome repair shop with a similar dash trim and a different solution, one of the studs was replaced with a small #4 socket cap screw. Such chromed screws are available from Amazon (search for "B00DD4SYDK") in 1/4" and 1/2" length.
The second pair of photo shows what it looks like when installed in the vent plate on a Pagoda.

Would this be an acceptable solution for a nice car - but obviously not for a high level show car? What do you think?

« Last Edit: July 30, 2013, 20:44:45 by 66andBlue »
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

mdsalemi

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Re: Air vent plate repair - how?
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2013, 20:33:51 »
Alfred, the #4 cap screw, particularly if done in chrome, would be a nearly invisible solution to a vexing problem.  For a very nice driver, and even for a show car.  Every show car, even the most perfect, has flaws.  So, suffer the .5 deduction and make it up elsewhere!

I have not seen any photos of the studs replaced.  However if you were to fabricate a stud with a wide base, then use some really good adhesive, it should last.  The trick would be to get as wide a base as possible to maximize the adhesive.

Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2022 Ford Escape Hybrid
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid

66andBlue

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Re: Air vent plate repair - how?
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2013, 20:50:55 »
Michael,
well, the cap screw is not really invisible - I hope you can see it in the photos - but I am glad to read that in your opinion it might be innocuous enough.
However, your other suggestion to look for a stud with a wider base turned on a light bulb.
I'll experiment with one of the square head screws that are used to fix the chrome trim to the lid over the soft top compartment.
If it works then it will save me lots of $$!
« Last Edit: July 30, 2013, 21:03:40 by 66andBlue »
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

DaveB

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Re: Air vent plate repair - how?
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2013, 22:37:36 »
It is a nice-looking and strong but it would niggle me. All depends on the level of the car as you say. It seems it should be brazeable but I guess it is the infamous pot metal and not straightforward. The wide base/adhesive idea sounds like it might work, with the right glue.
On a related note have you been able to successfully trim that small concave dash section outboard of the vents? No-one seems to get that right.
« Last Edit: July 30, 2013, 23:59:01 by DaveB »
DaveB
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mdsalemi

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Re: Air vent plate repair - how?
« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2013, 23:52:51 »
You are on the right track Alfred, I was thinking of something like the photos attached.

Yes the screw is visible, but mainly because YOU know about it.  Don't tell, and most will not notice it...like all the flaws one finds in their own home!
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2022 Ford Escape Hybrid
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid

George Des

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Re: Air vent plate repair - how?
« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2013, 15:54:54 »
I can't recall how thick this piece is where the studs are located, but if there is enough thickness there to drill in a small amount and tap with a flat bottom tap you may be able to get a new stud in there with some extra support from something like JB Weld. You'd just need to be very careful not to drill through. Even a thread or two combined with the JB Weld may be enough to hold this better than using just epoxy cement