123 ignition distributor?

[Bob G]

does anyone now or have on their SL  a 123 ignition Distributor? I own a 1968 280SL and want to set  up my car for road use and reliability. I have the later aluminum Bosch single point distributor. how does this 123 distributor compare to the Partronics kit. I am not looking at price but real time use with  both systems. 

I now this may be an apple and oranges comparison. but any feed back would be appreciate.

Bob  Geco

[Peter van Es]

Bob,

where have you been? The 123 distributor has been discussed very extensively and in great detail in this thread: http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=9984.0

Bob Possel did a lot of research on them for his car. In the Technical Manual a summary is given.

Pretty much everyone who has one is very happy with it.

Peter

[bpossel]

Hi Bob G. !

The 123 has been working great for me.  I have used both the 123 and Pertronix.  I replaced my Pertronix, along with my distributor, with a 123 unit because my distributor was worn and not repairable.  The Pertronix setup works well with a good distributor.
Hope this helps.
bob

[Bob G]

Peter.
I move slow these days still have pain in my legs from my back surgery. I got call as I explained to Bob from the sales representive  I posted the inquiry to makesure it was leglite.

See you in black lick Ohio.

bob & Sharon Geco

[scp]

Perhaps a bit off topic, but how does one remove the old distributor?  I have loosened the clamp and the distributor is frozen in place - it does not move at all (can not change timing).  Is there a degree of "persuasion" that could be used (beat on it with a hammer) or is it worth taking the distributor bearing body off the engine and bringing the whole thing to a machine shop?  Has anyone encountered this before?  Any suggestion would be appreciated.  Thanks.
-SCP

[jameshoward]

You could try some penetrating oil at the collar of the distributor applied over a few days, but it may be that after lack of use the collar is a bit stuck, so you may not have fully slackened it. The housing is aluminium, and the dissy (probably) steel, so you could try a little heat on the collar gently, but note that there are petrol lines around there also, so don't use an indescriminate naked flame. I would expend some effort with penetrating oil and attempting to move it back and forth before removing the entire housing. I think you'll find it will move with a little preparation.

Apparently a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone makes the best penetrating oil. I've also had success with old brake fluid (which I think JA recommended).

(Don't beat on it with a hammer, tho).

JH