Thanks all, I think I understand it now! What I have purchased are 2 190SL levers, black plastic. In answer to Alfred's question, yes, that is the lever I'm looking at. I've never seen one like in your picture, and the picture from John. Having never seen a real one, thought these would be worth a try. They work very well, and I think I'll leave them. I'll attempt a photo tonight or this weekend, but I have to figure out how to get the file size down first. And John, that chrome lever in your final picture is exactly like mine, which are not chrome.
On second looks at the photos, I see something will help. Notice the taper on the shank for the chrome lever close up in John's photo. That taper hold the lever up in the "socket" and against the spring. I don't think the M-B dealer lever nor SLS lever has that taper.
I've attached a photo of the SLS site's version of the lever, and it looks like the one I got from my M-B dealer. As I've stated, the shank is so thin with no taper, the lever falls out when you operate the vent door. Before I purchased the 190SL levers, I was just going to super glue the dealer levers in.
Ron
PS In looking up into the right vent to work on this, I noticed what looked like insulation coming out of the duct from the cowl. I figured some factory insulation was loose and that would have be addressed someday. Last night I took the cowl vent grille, hood, door, and filter out to start the heater valve/plastic door repair - yep, it has the stuck heater valve and the PO broke the door. I found a huge mouse nest in the right side. This nest was made of shredded carpet, and was probably 13 years old. My car is indoors away from mice, - I have bait all around it. Good news is that all cables work, and no rust in that area!