280SL Suddenly won't start

[johnshenry]

Our '69 280SL has been running flawlessly for a few years after a new engine rebuild.  Yesterday went to take it to the golf course and it wouldn't start.  A loud click and a whining sound (fuel pump I presume) when I turn the key to the start position.

Put a charger on it over night, went to try it today, same thing.  Put a meter on the battery is was 12.47 volts, and around 12.1 when I turned the key to start so I presume the battery isn't the issue.

Oddly, the taillights and reverse lights come on when I turn the key to the start position, and, I found that I can push/roll the car when it is in D, R or P (?).

Been a gearhead for 40+ years, and have several other antique rides, but confess I don't wrench on this one much (I write checks).  Ideas/tips on what to check next?

[Vander]

If you can roll the car in any gear it sounds like your shifter linkage bushings broke underneath the car.

They are on the side of the transmission, and can be seen easily if you have a way to jack it up and get underneath.

Car won't start because the transmission is not in park, even though the shifter inside appears it is. Neutral safety switch is doing its job.

[johnshenry]

If you can roll the car in any gear it sounds like your shifter linkage bushings broke underneath the car.

They are on the side of the transmission, and can be seen easily if you have a way to jack it up and get underneath.

Car won't start because the transmission is not in park, even though the shifter inside appears it is. Neutral safety switch is doing its job.

That makes sense given the symptoms.  I'll get under there and have a look.  Thanks......

[rwmastel]

These bushings are a common problem.  Use our Search feature on this forum and learn all you need to know.

[Mike Hughes]

These bushings are a common problem.  Use our Search feature on this forum and learn all you need to know.

Type "shift lever bushings" in the Search box and select "Entire forum" in the adjacent drop box then click the blue "Search" button in the top right-hand corner underneath the Pagoda SL Group logo.

[johnshenry]

Thanks for all the tips.  I didn't mention that our 280SL is an Automatic.  Does the "check shift lever bushings" still apply??  Hope to get the car up tomorrow and have a look.  But the theory that it "thinks" it is not in park and won't start makes sense.

[Vander]

Thanks for all the tips.  I didn't mention that our 280SL is an Automatic.  Does the "check shift lever bushings" still apply??  Hope to get the car up tomorrow and have a look.  But the theory that it "thinks" it is not in park and won't start makes sense.

You may not have said the word automatic, but you still told us when you mentioned 'D' and 'P', manuals don't have those.  😁

[Kevkeller]

I am wondering if the spinning sound you hear is the starter turning but not extending and engaging on the flywheel? The voltage dropping to 12.1 volts sounds like it might be the starter motor turning without a load.

Just a guess.

Kevin

[Mike Hughes]

Thanks for all the tips.  I didn't mention that our 280SL is an Automatic.  Does the "check shift lever bushings" still apply??  Hope to get the car up tomorrow and have a look.  But the theory that it "thinks" it is not in park and won't start makes sense.

Here is the issue:  There are two very inexpensive nylon shift lever bushings at each end of a rod that is connected through the bushing to the base of the shift lever itself at one end and the selector on the side of the transmission at the other.  The nylon bushings were not envisioned to last in service for 50-60 years. One of the nylon bushings invariably lets go while the driver is shifting into or out of 2,3,4, R or P.  So you might think you are putting the car in Park because that's where you placed the lever, but when a bushing actually lets go the transmission might have been in Reverse, Neutral, or any one of the forward gears.  The neutral safety switch in not governed by the position of the shift lever, it is governed by the position of the selector on the side of the transmission.  It will only allow the starter circuit to engage if the selector is in N or P.  Since you can't start the car, it isn't in Neutral, and since you can roll the car, it isn't in Park.  When you get under the car you will find that the selector on the side of the transmission is in R, 4,3,or 2.

The nylon bushings are available through your local M-B dealer or from many parts suppliers.  I got mine from Authentic Classics.  They also sell a tool that makes removing and installing the bushings much easier. 

[rwmastel]

They also sell a tool that makes removing and installing the bushings much easier.

Is that tool expensive enough to make it worthwhile loaning/shipping it to other members?  I ask because a tool loaning program was brought up in another thread.

[Mike Hughes]

Correction to my earlier post:  Authentic Classics no longer shows the bushing tool on their website.  However, JB Tools lists the tool, currently on sale for $31.26, here:

https://www.jbtools.com/v8-tools-909-transmission-linkage-bushing-installer-pliers-for-mercedes-benz-ford-others/?wi=off&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc_pmax-A10-D50&msclkid=c1b3376b77b1100e75155ffd5cec4381

[johnshenry]

Lifted the car today and got under.  The rearward connection/bushing is missing the clip and the rod just fell out.    I plan on replacing the bushings and the missing clip if I can get up there (already looked at a bunch of Youtube videos on this).

Authentic sells a kit for $149 but it looks like it contains a bunch of parts I don't need.  Can anyone tell me where I can buy just the bushings and clip(s)?  I admit I haven't search Authentic completely... I will.

I did see the bushing installation tool, but also a video where a guy used a small bolt/screw, some washers and socket.  Reminds me of pressing A arm bushings into VW arms.

[johnshenry]

I found the individual bushing at Authentic, but not the retaining clip.  Anyone know where I can get that?

[johnshenry]

Found all the parts for $35 shipped from EMPI.

[rwmastel]

What's EMPI?

[Mike Hughes]

I found the individual bushing at Authentic, but not the retaining clip.  Anyone know where I can get that?

If you are talking about the white nylon bushings, the retaining mechanism is cast into the bushing.  One only has to install it correctly: the beveled side faces AWAY from the lever when the rod is installed; the flat side (where the stepped retaining ring is cast ) faces TOWARDS and rides against the lever when the rod is installed.  Closely examine the inner profile of nylon bushing and the profile of the peg on the lever and it will make sense.

[johnshenry]

Got it fixed today with minimal cussing.

So I ordered the bushings and clips but found that the clips are not used on this car (As Mike Hughes pointed out above).  The shifter end bushing had split apart and the rod just fell off.  Getting the rod out was pretty easy, I just rotated/pulled the rod away from the (more accessible) transmission end and it rotated off.

Cleaned up the rod and installed the bushings using a fairly long M6 bolt, some fender washers and a shallow 17mm socket (there is a pic or video on this somewhere that I found).  Piece of cake, until I realized that I installed one backwards.  Was able to push it back out in the vice with another small socket.  It became clear that this car did not use the clips.  One side of the bushing has a much larger hole than the other side, and it started to look like the arm would be pushed over the pivot balls on the smaller side of the bushing but I wasn't sure.  Test fitting the bushing on the larger side it was clear that this thing would just fall off instantly if I went that way.  Luckily, I was able to call my vintage Benz mechanic who rebuilt the engine in this car years ago, and he confirmed that the bushing goes on the ball small side facing with some force.

After prying what was left of the old shifter end bushing with a sharpened screwdriver, I opened up the small side holes in the new bushings just a tad with a drill bit.  Greased everything up well and slid under the car with a modest sized crowbar.

Much to my astonishment, I was able to pry each end over the pivot balls.  On the front end, I could pry against the transmission rear mounting plate and pop it on.  The shifter end was much more difficult working through the tunnel access hole, but I was able to pry against the driveshaft there and lo and behold, after (some cussing) it popped on.