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Pagoda SL Group  |  W113 Pagoda SL Group  |  Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes  |  Topic: Linkage Tour Advanced search
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Sticky TopicLocked Topic Topic: Linkage Tour  (Read 44321 times)
« on: April 02, 2006, 09:21:12 »
ja17
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Location: USA, OH, Blacklick
Posts: 4619



7-17-07 re-loaded Matt Merrill's information
6-30-07 added information by "merrill"  (Matt Merrill)
11-19-06 intake venturi linkage information added
11-17-06 accelerator pedal linkage info added
11-16-06 information corrected, thanks Matt!
4-4-06 updated (parts numbers added)

There has been a lot of information posted on the subject of linkage adjustment. Thought it might be nice to have it all in one document with photos and diagrams. I have added factory information and what I know on the subject. Feel free to add, or correct as needed.

Sorry if some of these plates have become fuzzy after compression.
 
The intake venturi is one of the most  important aspects of the engine linkage adjustment, engine tuning and automatic transmission shifting. When not adjusted properly problems with improper idle speed, hard automatic transmission shifting, up or down and erratic engine behaviour may result. Proper linkage adjustment will be nearly impossible if the venturi is not correctly set.

The intake venturi stop screw.......

The most common and first item to check is the small slotted stop screw with lock nut on the intake venturi.  This is factory set and is frequently mistakenly used as an idle adjustment screw. This stop screw must be set so that the intake linkage arm and venturi valve in the intake closes all the way! When not set correctly too much idle air will be admitted to the engine causing lean idle mixture and/or too high engine idle rpm. An uninformed person may compensate for the situation by tampering with injection and linkage adjustments thus getting the engine even further from being in correct tune.

Download Attachment: venturi illus.JPG
64.5 KB

W113s with automatic transmissions also have a electrical switch attached to the venturi.  This switch lowers and raises modulator pressure by activating the three position solenoid on the transmission. Harsh downshifts (especially the last downshift before a stop) may result when not adjusted correctly. Correcting an improper set venturi can make an amazing difference in shifting, engine idle and engine performance.

Download Attachment: venturi illus2.JPG
55.46 KB

Disconnect the linkage rod going from the cross over rod to the venturi. If you have a USA version with the vacuum dash pot, you will need to move it out of the way so it does not interfere with the adjustment. The small slotted venturi set screw must be backed off enough to allow the venturi valve to close all the way and then adjusted in just enough to keep the venturi valve from binding in the intake.

USA 280SLs had an "Vacuum throttle control" on the intake venturi linkage. A special linkage with a "slip joint" was also used between the venturi and the cross-over rod on the engine. Adjust the slip joint linkage so it is fully compressed with the engine running and warm at idle in neutral. Adjust the vacuum control/linkage to
zero clearance. Now with the transmission in gear, the throttle lever will open 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm.
If you have a factory shop manual with the USA versions look on page 07-14/7.  It gives the procedure to adjust the unit.
Adjustments of the other linkage and tune-up items can follow afterwards if the idle is too high or too low or the mixture is incorrect.

Download Attachment: linkage 1.JPG
77.8 KB

Download Attachment: linkage 11.JPG
55.19 KB

Download Attachment: 12.3.JPG
79.63 KB

Download Attachment: linkage 13.JPG
65.95 KB

Naj points out that linkage parts should be checked for wear and has supplied parts numbers. Thanks Naj.

127 072 0185 spherical brass bushing (2 required)
000 991 8922 rod end ball socket RHT (as required)
000 991 9022 rod end ball socket LHT (as required)

During regular maintenance engine linkages should be lubricated with a light oil. Often times the block pivot is missed and may begin to bind or seize after periods of inactivity or storage. Try using some penetrant first then oil after it becomes free. This photo is a sedan pivot. The location is the same (under the intake manifold) and the unit is very similar. Also not the factory coolant drain plug location in the picture.

Download Attachment: block linkage lever.JPG
53.21 KB

Here is some information on the firewall accelerator pedal linkage and adjustment. The linkage between the block pivot and the intake manifold lever should be checked first before tampering with the firewall adjustment.

Download Attachment: pedal linkage .2.JPG
75.6 KB

When the accelerator pedal is at the floor the venturi valve should be wide open. If not you are loosing a lot of power. This is fairly common problem.  With automatics the pedal must also contact the "kick down switch". Adjust at the firewall after checking the other linkages.


Information and diagram contributed by "merrill" Matt Merrill;

"I have put the part numbers for another linkage bushing, ball stud , washer and nut.
all are available at the price in the photo. the bushings are only in germany"..........

Matt Merrill's information;
Download Attachment: Merrill.jpg
36.73 KB



Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
















« Last Edit: September 18, 2007, 06:12:07 by ja17 » Logged

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
 
Reply #1
« on: April 02, 2006, 09:55:56 »
Cees Klumper
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This is super Joe - having the linkages set up correctly is critical to the proper functioning of the engine so this information is very valuable.

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
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Cees Klumper in Geneva, Switzerland; Guyonvelle, France; and Key West, United States
1969 Mercedes 280 SL
 
Reply #2
« on: April 02, 2006, 10:39:30 »
Kgear
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Location: USA, VA, Fairfax Station
Posts: 335



Thank you!  This is a great set of instructions, it's nice to have all the steps in one place.  

I bet this post turns out to be the "most read" one the site over time.

Ken G
1971 280 SL
Silver/red
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Ken G
1971 280 SL Silver/red
 
Reply #3
« on: April 02, 2006, 16:32:41 »
Naj
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Location: United Kingdom, Surrey, New Malden
Posts: 2862



A good time to check the two spherical brass bushes on the control rod mounting posts before starting any adjustments.

naj

65 230SL
68 280SL
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68 280SL
 
Reply #4
« on: April 03, 2006, 08:45:27 »
Ben Cosgrave
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Location: Ireland, Dublin, Dublin
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This is great.........thanks Joe, I've read it before, done it before but never seen it documented like this before !

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.- sold
'68 280SE Coupe W111 - sold
 
Reply #5
« on: April 03, 2006, 18:53:15 »
ja17
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Location: USA, OH, Blacklick
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Hello naj,

Yes thanks, check for worn bushings and linkage rod ends. If you have the current part numbers I will splice them into the tour.


Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
 
Reply #6
« on: April 04, 2006, 05:46:14 »
ja17
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Location: USA, OH, Blacklick
Posts: 4619



Thanks naj!

I spliced the information into the original post.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
 
Reply #7
« on: November 16, 2006, 13:08:49 »
merrill
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Posts: 882



Joe,
I thought I saw a post that discussed linkage adjustment that went something like this.

"set the venturi linkage to 233 mm in length from the centers of the ball socket, then make sure that when the inj pump is wide open the intake venturi is wide open."

1. is the venturi linkage referring to the ijn pump to cross link or the cross link to the intake venturi?  the linkage for the inj pump to cross linkage on my car was exactly 233 mm center to center.
I just want to make sure this is ok.

(the link from the cross linkage to the intake was about 12 inches long. while the inj pump to cross linkage was about 9 1/2 inches long.)

2.  when the inj pump was wide open, the intake venturi was not wide open, so I lengthened the linkage from the cross linkage to the intake venturi.  I also made sure that the butterfly valve in the intake fully closed / opened after adjustment.


It will be interesting to see if this changes the performance of the car.

matt

Matt
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
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Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
 
Reply #8
« on: November 16, 2006, 17:38:39 »
al_lieffring
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MBCA Peachtree Chapter Location: USA, Bishop, GA (near Atlanta)
Posts: 950



Joe

You might want to include a reminder to check and lubricate the bell-crank on the cooling jacket cover.

66 230sl
113-042-10-014715
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition: not-as-rusty-as-before-bucket
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66 230SL
 
Reply #9
« on: November 16, 2006, 18:59:20 »
ja17
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Posts: 4619



Hello Matt,

I am glad you caught this!  Now I need to go back and correct this, yes the 233mm dimension is for the linkage rod going from the injection pump to the cross over rod!

Be careful, Yes make sure that the venturi is closed and the injection pump lever is on its stop.  Also make sure the venturi stop screw is only adjusted just enough to keep the butterfly valve from binding.

Make sure that the engine is getting full throttle when the accelerator is on the floor. There is a accelerator pedal height adjustment at the fire wall near the brake booster. By loosening the 13mm bolt head and removing the spring, you will be able to adjust the accelerator pedal height. Afterward make sure the accelerator pedal gives you full throttle when floored. Also make sure that the accelerator pedal just hits the kick down switch (on automatics) when the pedal is depressed at  full throttle.  Changing the length of the linkage rod going to the block pivot will also change pedal travel and throttle.
Thanks,


Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
« Last Edit: November 16, 2006, 23:23:56 by ja17 » Logged

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
 
Reply #10
« on: November 16, 2006, 19:14:58 »
merrill
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Joe,
yep, now I see it, the first attachment in the original post above note 4.  
Since, I had not heard back from you this afternoon I swapped the linkages and there is no way this would have worked.

I have ordered new linkages and the brass bushings from cheryl at K&K so I can get it working like new again.

I will also check to make sure my gas pedal portion of the linkage is correct.

yippeee, It is nice to see the hard work pay off.
matt

Matt
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
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Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
 
Reply #11
« on: November 16, 2006, 23:39:28 »
ja17
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Posts: 4619



Hellow Al,

Good point on lubricating the block pivot.  I will have a photo I will splice into the "tour".

Thanks,



Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
 
Reply #12
« on: November 17, 2006, 00:15:32 »
saygold
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Posts: 82



Excellent explanation and pictures.  Thanks for posting them.

Is there a specific length for the "linkage to manifold lever" (shown in the "Block linkage Lever.JPG" photo), or is it adjusted "as needed"?

Thanks,

Ken
'66 230SL (Euro, 4-speed)
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Reply #13
« on: November 17, 2006, 00:49:58 »
ja17
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Location: USA, OH, Blacklick
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Hello Ken,

I have never seen a specific length listed for the rod between the pivot and the manifold, but if it is too short your accelerator pedal may be too high. If it is too long you may not be getting full throttle.  One easy test is to hold the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor (engine off). Next have someone check to see if the venturi is open all the way.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
 
Reply #14
« on: November 17, 2006, 07:50:25 »
Peter van Es
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Location: Netherlands, Noord-Holland, Hilversum
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Joe,

if you can mail me the pictures in as large a format as available, I can make this into a document which I can create a "member-only" downloadable PDF of. This pdf then should print great on someone's printer, and will have full picture quality.

Let me know if you think this would be a good idea, and you can mail me the original images to admin@sl113.org
Peter



Check out http://bali.esweb.nl for photographs of classic car events and my 1970 280 SL
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1970 280SL. Please do not mail or PM me questions on Pagoda's... I'm not likely to know the answer.  Please post on the forum instead!
 
Reply #15
« on: November 18, 2006, 12:19:16 »
jeffc280sl
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Location: USA, MD, Jeffc280sl
Posts: 1571



Joe,

Thank you very much for the write up and pictures!

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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Reply #16
« on: June 06, 2007, 10:54:04 »
waqas
Pagoda SL Board
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Location: USA, TX, Austin
Posts: 1691



So I have some basic questions:

Are the linkage adjustemnts (dimensions from ball-center to ball-center) specific to the chassis or the engine?

What if you have a sedan engine in your pagoda? (which dimensions do you use?)

Are the dimensions listed in the BBB ?  Which section? my CDROM is a bit tedious to navigate... looks like the MBZ climate control system group also worked on the CDROM...  Cheesy

Thanks for such a helpful and informative thread!

WAQAS in Austin, Texas
« Last Edit: June 06, 2007, 14:05:50 by waqas » Logged

Waqas (Wa-kaas) in Austin, Texas
Editor-in-Chief, Pagoda World magazine
 
Reply #17
« on: June 06, 2007, 21:46:49 »
ja17
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Location: USA, OH, Blacklick
Posts: 4619



Hello Waqas,
The linkage rod between the injection pump and cross over rod should be the same on the 250 and 280 series in both the SL and sedans. I am fairly certain  that the 230SL is also the same. There may be some differences in the other linkages depending on the model. As far as I know the installed lengths of the other rods is not called out in the BBB, just the one from the pump to the cross over rod 233mm.

Installing the 233 mm rod and setting up the venturi to be completely closed will dictate the length of the rod going from the venturi to the cross over rod. Also use the alignment bore in the linkage support if your car has it. The linkage rod going to the block pivot should be set so the venturi is all the way open when the accelerator is at the floor while still allowing the venturi to completely closed when the pedal is up.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
 
Reply #18
« on: June 06, 2007, 23:05:10 »
sjiatrou
Associate Member
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Location: USA, CA, Seaside
Posts: 164



Thanks for the great information!  I have a quick question about the Progressive Regulating Linkage (top diagram in your linkage 13.JPG pic):

Is there supposed to be some play in the linkage when I press the accelerator?  I have the linkage rod adjusted so the roller rests as indicated, however, I have to depress the pedal about a 1/2" or so before the linkage engages (i.e., the linkage engages the roller); is this the correct configuration?  I hope that isn't too vague or misleading?

Thanks,
Steve

Steve Iatrou
Seaside, CA
1964 230sl roadster
White (050)/Black (116)
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Steve
Seaside, CA
 
Reply #19
« on: June 07, 2007, 14:15:26 »
RCS Coupe
Guest

Installing the 233 mm rod and setting up the venturi to be completely closed will dictate the length of the rod going from the venturi to the cross over rod. Also use the alignment bore in the linkage support if your car has it. The linkage rod going to the block pivot should be set so the venturi is all the way open when the accelerator is at the floor while still allowing the venturi to completely closed when the pedal is up.

Joe Alexander

Sorry, but I need to beat this out one more time. I am installing all new (or replated) link rods, balls, sockets, and pivots from the pedal to the venturi and FI pump. Mine is an M129 (250SL) engine, non-US spec, manual transmission, R11 FI pump.
With a pile of shiny metal bits in front of me, some rods right threaded, others left-threaded, I have to start somewhere to get it all back together and working.

For the link rod between the FI pump and the crossover shaft: is the length dictated by the cross shaft being on the alignment bore in the shaft support and the FI pump lever on the stop, or does the link need to be 233 mm long?

With my FI pump lever on the stop and the cross shaft aligned through the support hole, the link rod measures 230 mm center-to-center (socket balls). Lengthing the rod to 233 mm will open the FI pump off the stop with the throttle valve shut. Any thoughts on this?

Ray
(268)Green 250 Coupe
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Reply #20
« on: June 10, 2007, 18:22:14 »
merrill
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Location: USA, TX, Austin
Posts: 882




I have put the part numbers for another linkage bushing, ball stud , washer and nut.  
all are available at the price in the photo.  the bushings are only in germany


Download Attachment: parts for linkage.JPG
37.97 KB

Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
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Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230
 
Reply #21
« on: June 13, 2007, 11:06:09 »
Ben Cosgrave
Associate Member
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Location: Ireland, Dublin, Dublin
Posts: 1064

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quote:
With my FI pump lever on the stop and the cross shaft aligned through the support hole, the link rod measures 230 mm center-to-center (socket balls). Lengthing the rod to 233 mm will open the FI pump off the stop with the throttle valve shut. Any thoughts on this?

Ray
(268)Green 250 Coupe


..........good question !!

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.- sold
'68 280SE Coupe W111 - sold
 
Reply #22
« on: June 13, 2007, 16:23:46 »
ja17
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Location: USA, OH, Blacklick
Posts: 4619



Thanks for the good added imformation merril,

I will cut and paste it into the original "Linkage Tour" (with a credit to you) so it does not get lost!


Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
 
Reply #23
« on: June 13, 2007, 16:40:58 »
ja17
Full Member
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Location: USA, OH, Blacklick
Posts: 4619



Hello RSC,

Sounds like some of the other linkage rod lengths have been changed. Set the injection pump rod to 233mm, disconnect the other rods, including the rod going to the block pivot. Adjust and install the linkage from the cross over rod to intake venturi (venturi must be closed) now install the block pivot rod so it does not disturb the linkage at rest.  Next make sure that the venturi is fully open when the accelerator is on the floor. When the accelerator pedal is at rest the venturi should be completely closed and on the linkage lever on the stop at the injection pump.



Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
« Last Edit: June 13, 2007, 16:44:23 by ja17 » Logged

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
 
Reply #24
« on: June 13, 2007, 16:56:03 »
ja17
Full Member
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Location: USA, OH, Blacklick
Posts: 4619



Hello Steve,

By the looks of the diagram it appears that the progressive linkage is meant to move a bit before things start to happen, however the "roller openings" do wear and yours may be bit excessive. In this case you may wish to replace the linkage plate or adjust it a bit off the rest to compensate. Make sure you get "full throttle" (venturi fully open) with the accelerator pedal on the floor.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
« Last Edit: June 13, 2007, 16:57:22 by ja17 » Logged

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
 
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Pagoda SL Group  |  W113 Pagoda SL Group  |  Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes  |  Topic: Linkage Tour « previous next »
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